BX 23 - possible main switch issue

[safar]

I'm having some electrical issues with my BX23
There doesn't seem to be any power going to the fuel pump and I'm not too familiar with wiring and electrical on a tractor.

I'm not sure I'm understanding the wiring, but I have 4 fuses, a 20a, 15a, 15a, 15a
The first 2 show a voltage when the ignition key is turned on and the second two don't - I'm guessing one of these 2 goes to the fuel pump

I'm not seeing any other obvious issues, like chewed wires but I'm confused on the main switch (diagram attached)

For the first part: It says to connect the 30 terminal (4) to the chassis and I should be getting similar voltage to the battery. I get none, but just to clarify I'm going this correct - I should be connecting the other end to metal body of the Tractor?

I only have a Fluke (and I'm not sure what Infinity should show as it doesn't seem to show a value), so not sure I'm checking the second part with he Resistance correctly, but should it beep, like it would if I was testing continuity on a fuse.

Any other thoughts on what I could check on the power issue to the fuel pump?

 

[mllud]

Have someone turn the ignition and verify no voltage at the fuel pump and start solenoid.

Also, you can verify that it is an issue with getting power to the fuel solenoid and fuel pump make a jumper wire to get power from the battery directly to the solenoid, then the fuel pump, unplugging the + wire first on both before jumping direct power.
If the solenoid clicks and you can feel the pump come on then work backward from there to the fuse box, verify that all four fusses have continuity.
Wiggle fuses in the fuse holder. I had a bad fuse holder in a NH skid steer. I only discovered that after accidently bumping it and heard a relay clicking. WIRING is ####

Your Fluke meter should beep on the setting to check continuity.
If you find the relays swap them around.

If you make a jumper wire use alligator clips on the ends and have a 15 Amp inline fuse holder in the wire.
When checking with a jumper wire always be sure to disconnect the power + wire so it can't back feed into the CM

It could be one of many safety interlock.
I couldn't follow your post very well.

I verify, fuses good first and that fuel pump and start solenoid function next, then safety interlocks and ignition switch. I like having a spare relay to swap around.
Redneck troubleshooting.

A schematic is good, look for wiring chewed up, broken or bad connections that are visible, sometimes.

I'm rambling

 

[Richard001]

For the first part: It says to connect the 30 terminal (4) to the chassis and I should be getting similar voltage to the battery. I get none, but just to clarify I'm going this correct - I should be connecting the other end to metal body of the Tractor?

No, you don't connect the 30 terminal to ground. That would be a direct short and pop any fuse in the line.

You would set you voltmeter to volts DC and on a scale that would accept a 12V DC input.

Connect the positive (red) voltmeter lead to the 30 terminal and the negative (black) lead to the frame. (ground)

You should see battery voltage. i.e. 12 volts. If not, check the fuses.

If you have the other pages of the wiring diagram, please post it as we need to see how the power to the fuel pump is supplied.

Richard

 

[Eagle1]

My Fluke meter has two resistance settings one just measures ohms, the other is a diode mode and beeps when continuity is found, can't remember at what resistance is considered good since I rarely use that mode these days.

 

[safar]

Thank you both for your replies; Let me better explain.

I removed the fuel pump and it runs (clicks and shakes) when connected with some jumpers to the battery.

There is no voltage to the connecter under the tractor when turning the key.

All the 4 fuses have continuity.
If I remove the fuses and put probes into each of the block, I get voltage to 2 block and none to the other 2, when turning the key.

Working backwards to the main ignition switch, I'm trying to figure out if the switch is faulty.
Per the attachment above, if I connect one end of the voltmeter probe to the 30 (Red cable) and the other end to the chassis, I should get Voltage between 11 - 14 V and I get 1 V, but I wasn't sure if I was doing anything wrong.
The picture shows that the harness disconnected, so where would the 11 - 14 V be coming from? Does the switch hold Voltage?

So at this point, unless I'm doing something wrong, the switch seems bad at a minimum.

Here are other pages with the complete Electrical wiring.

 

[safar]

My Fluke meter has two resistance settings one just measures ohms, the other is a diode mode and beeps when continuity is found, can't remember at what resistance is considered good since I rarely use that mode these days.

I'm going to try again - the manual says in the off position it should be Infinity and in the ON position it should be 0, but I'm not sure I'm reading this correctly as I've never used this except for checking continuity. I'll try again tonight.

The manual says;
Main Switch Continuity
1) Main Switch Key at OFF Position
1. Set the main switch OFF position.
• Measure the resistance with an ohmmeter across the 30 terminal and the AC terminal, 30 terminal and 50 terminal, 30 terminal and
19 terminal.
3. It infinity is not indicated, the contacts of the main switch are faulty.

Is that supposed to just beep or am I supposed to be seeing some value?

 

[mllud]

A switch is fairly inexpensive if you buy aftermarket. I think they are all made at the same place.
I hate just throw parts a problem, but Switches fail often. It sounds like your headed in the right direction.
On fuses I don't worry about reading the meter. Maybe I should but if it has continuity, I call it good.
On the switch what the book is saying with those readings is that its either has continuity or doesn't.
Beep its good or no beep its bad.
I have to get in the book when checking resistance. I Use my meter mostly for voltage and continuity.
I'm no wiz