BX 2360 60" deck adjustment question

[runnerbl]

Wheels dont touch the ground during normal operation, only contact to prevent scalping. If you push the AS wheels all the way up in their housing (or remove them completely from the deck) the deck should float at set height with no ground contact. If there is any wheel to ground contact when the wheels are completely raised something is broken in the height system. Adjust the height setting knob with the deck raised all the way up.Dont rely on deck or manual markings for setting anti-scalp wheel height, get the deck set to desired cut height (and leveled) then position the wheels at whatever height gives ~13mm ground clearance. Decks can be warped.

Deck is leveled R-L using the 19mm (?) bolts on the rear lifting arms. Before doing this, set the deck to the desired mowing height (3" for example).

To do a good job you really need the Deere deck gauge. Best $8 spent

The leading edge of the deck (blades) should be ~1/4-1/2 below the rear. Set this using the 2 large nuts (22mm??) on the front mount.

Thanks Scooby. I will try that. I guess what I don't understand is why even put in the owners manual what hole in the wheel spindle represents a cutting height. Leads you to believe that what ever the deck height is set at, the wheels should be set the same.

Can you give a guide on exactly how I use the deck gauge? I would appreciate it. Can I just just a level on the back of the deck to make sure it's level left to right or is the gauge the best thing to use.

Also, if you set the front to be 1/4 to 1/2 lower then if the back is set at 4" and the front set at 3.5" then isn't the grass getting cut at the 3.5". Wouldn't it make more sense for the front to be a little higher so that final cut height is what the back deck height is?

 

[Jeff F.]

Runner- where are you located? This sounds like a job that I should stop over with my gauge and a few beers:laughing:. The front edge of the deck is the cutting edge as it encounters new grass.

You can use a level to get the deck close, however as stated earlier the deck may be warped. Now before you start to do the adjustments on the deck, check the air pressure in the tires. Good Luck.

 

[dougtrr2]

I can raise it up and it will stay there. Three point hitch will raise and lower even after mower stops going down. Height adjustment knob does not wiggle. To number 4, yes, but aren't they suppose to do that? That's is how you take the mower off.

Just to be clear, can you lock your deck in the top position? That is, deck is all the way up and the three point goes up and down while the deck stays at the top. Does your deck change height depending on the setting to the height adjustment knob? To me it sounds like your height adjustment knob is not working. The stepped cam may be loose or completley gone. The bolt holding mine on came loose after I got mine and it took a while to realize what the problem was. Good luck.

Take Care,
Doug in SW IA

 

[Scooby074]

Thanks Scooby. I will try that. I guess what I don't understand is why even put in the owners manual what hole in the wheel spindle represents a cutting height. Leads you to believe that what ever the deck height is set at, the wheels should be set the same.

Can you give a guide on exactly how I use the deck gauge? I would appreciate it. Can I just just a level on the back of the deck to make sure it's level left to right or is the gauge the best thing to use.

Also, if you set the front to be 1/4 to 1/2 lower then if the back is set at 4" and the front set at 3.5" then isn't the grass getting cut at the 3.5". Wouldn't it make more sense for the front to be a little higher so that final cut height is what the back deck height is?

The manual is written for perfect world conditions. Honestly its just easier to set the deck up, then adjust the anti scalp wheels to suit. This takes all guesswork out of it and allows for any warpage in the deck, lift, tires etc... If the deck isnt warped (severely) then the wheels should end up pinned through he same hole on all 4 corners. Even considering the height difference between front and rear. The wheel height really isnt that critical for a good cut (it only prevents scalps), the level R-L and F-R of the deck however IS very critical to the final cut.

A spirit level is of no use in setting the deck. The stamped deck housing is not a good reference surface.

The only real way to set up a deck proper is to use the Deere gauge and a level reference surface (like a concrete garage floor). The Deere gauge is available under other brand names if there is no deere dealer handy. Some have also used pieces of wood cut to the proper height, but I'm going to focus on the Deere method.

To do the deere method:

1. park the tractor on a flat, level, hard, clean surface (like concrete)
2. ensure that rear tires and front tires are inflated to proper pressures.
3. Make sure that the Scalp wheels are rased.
4. set the knob on the tractor to desired cut height. Use the height you plan on using in the future.
5.face the right blade parallel to the tractor.
6. use the gauge to measure the cutting edge on the right blade at the leading edge of the tractor. Mark this edge (sharpie etc). You will make all adjustments and measurements from this edge.
7. Make a note of he measurement on the deere gauge. Compare this to what the tractor knob is set at.
8. rotate the marked cutting edge to the rear, measure height and note.
9. Repeat steps 5,6,7,8 on the Left side.

Now you should see what planes the right and left blade are running in. Looking at your measurement sheet, you should see what adjustments you have to make.

The deck is leveled L-R using the 2 bolts on the lifting arms. The deck pitch F-R is set with the nuts on the front mount.

What I did was set the marked cutting edge on the right side to the rear position and set it to "dial cut height+1/4". I then moved to the Left side and did the same. After doing this the blades should be in a level plain R-L.

Then I rotated the marked edge to the leading position, I went to the front mount nuts and adjusted the marked cutting edge to "dial cut height" on both the R and L sides. Both nuts should be in approximately the same position when finished.

To double check your work, turn the right marked cutting edge perpendicular to the tractor and note its height. Then do it on the left side. The R and L height measurements should be equal. The measurement should also be higher than the leading measurement but less than the rear .

Now that the deck is level L-R and tipped F-R, set your Anti Scalp wheels accordingly.

 

[RaydaKub]

Hi Runner,
I asked the 4 questions I did to determine if the mower was dropping all the way to the ground; it wasn't clear initially. So the mower stops dropping at some point, now we need to determine if it is dropping to the right height and then level it and adjust the wheels to match.

When I got my BX2230, the mower height control was broken right off the frame. No matter what height I set, it went right to the ground. I finally took the wheels off and it REALLY went (almost) to the ground. Now it stops at a reasonably good height, though I really need to do the calibration. I'm not convinced it is level. Need to get some new blades on it first though.

The description described by Scooby is very detailed. Thanks a lot, Jason!

 

[AFChief]

My wheels touch when lowered, following the manual. I thought that was normal operation. My front bracket is within spec and never touched the aft adjustments.

Problem I have is the front, right Anti-scalp wheel. I ran into a stump or something and bent the deck in on that corner and cracked the weld on the wheel mount. Now I can't get the deck sprung back out.

 

[RaydaKub]

My wheels touch when lowered, following the manual. I thought that was normal operation. My front bracket is within spec and never touched the aft adjustments.

Problem I have is the front, right Anti-scalp wheel. I ran into a stump or something and bent the deck in on that corner and cracked the weld on the wheel mount. Now I can't get the deck sprung back out.

Yeah, I feel your pain there. My rf wheel is bent in and down a shade also. I'm convinced that whatever they hit is when they broke my height control off. Also, even though I have the 60" mower, there is no way I could ever use the wheel spacers on the left side. There is *JUST* enough room to get the deck wheel pin out before hitting the rear tire. There is no obvious bend or anything in the deck or hangers, it just hangs close to that wheel. But the rf wheel has a definite bend to it.

I flipped my deck over last fall and put a hydraulic jack on the wheel pushing back toward the rear of the deck. Used a lot of blocking and such but I bent it out by probably an inch and 1/2 while I warmed it with a little torch. When I released it, I had gained maybe 3/4 inch on that wheel. I don't know if the torch helped or not. It isn't perfect, but it's a lot better. Still leaves an independent track in the grass though.

 

[sw03]

the mower deck wheel should NOT hit the ground when done correctly. Th 60" desk is not to hard to dial in. Put wheel all the way up and mow.

Scooby074 has the best post going here on this thread.

 

[runnerbl]

To do the deere method:

1. park the tractor on a flat, level, hard, clean surface (like concrete)
2. ensure that rear tires and front tires are inflated to proper pressures.
3. Make sure that the Scalp wheels are rased.
4. set the knob on the tractor to desired cut height. Use the height you plan on using in the future.
5.face the right blade parallel to the tractor.
6. use the gauge to measure the cutting edge on the right blade at the leading edge of the tractor. Mark this edge (sharpie etc). You will make all adjustments and measurements from this edge.
7. Make a note of he measurement on the deere gauge. Compare this to what the tractor knob is set at.
8. rotate the marked cutting edge to the rear, measure height and note.
9. Repeat steps 5,6,7,8 on the Left side.

Now you should see what planes the right and left blade are running in. Looking at your measurement sheet, you should see what adjustments you have to make.

The deck is leveled L-R using the 2 bolts on the lifting arms. The deck pitch F-R is set with the nuts on the front mount.

What I did was set the marked cutting edge on the right side to the rear position and set it to "dial cut height+1/4". I then moved to the Left side and did the same. After doing this the blades should be in a level plain R-L.

Then I rotated the marked edge to the leading position, I went to the front mount nuts and adjusted the marked cutting edge to "dial cut height" on both the R and L sides. Both nuts should be in approximately the same position when finished.

To double check your work, turn the right marked cutting edge perpendicular to the tractor and note its height. Then do it on the left side. The R and L height measurements should be equal. The measurement should also be higher than the leading measurement but less than the rear .

Now that the deck is level L-R and tipped F-R, set your Anti Scalp wheels accordingly.

Scooby, Wow..thanks for the detailed process. Please excuse my ignorance but the instructions are hard for me to follow. Do you have any pictures that you posted in the past that follows these steps? If so, please point me to that thread so I can see specifically what you are referring to when talking cutting edge at the leading edge. I don't see how I can measure the blade if it is parallel to the the tractor since the blade is not visible under the mower. Does the gauge go up under the mower and touch the blade? If so, is this the measurement you say to mark on the gauge? Then go the the back and repeat the same process.

What do you mean by setting the marked cutting edge and then rotating the marked edge to the leading position.

Thanks for taking the time to explain this. I truly appreciate it.

 

[runnerbl]

My wheels touch when lowered, following the manual. I thought that was normal operation. My front bracket is within spec and never touched the aft adjustments.

Problem I have is the front, right Anti-scalp wheel. I ran into a stump or something and bent the deck in on that corner and cracked the weld on the wheel mount. Now I can't get the deck sprung back out.

Me too AFChief. I hit a F'n Water Main lid cover 2 weeks ago and cracked the weld on right front wheel. Thinking about taking it to dealer to have them fix it but don't know if its worth what the will charge. As of now I just have it raised a couple holes higher than the other wheels. BTW, are you the same AFChief that is on vets.yuku.com?