BX Broken front axle
- Thread starter V1Rotate
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The tractor is a BX1500D, I am not sure if the front axle is the same as the BX25
The tractor is used mainly for grass mowing around my yard, no commercial use.
No FEL, no weights
I bought the tractor used last fall and it appeared to be in great shape it only has about 300 hours and I drive carefully, no abuse.
Thanks for the link, I will check them out.
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kcender
Platinum Member
Tractor looks to be in excellent condition :thumbsup:
jim_wilson
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It could have just been defective from the factory. My BX23 had a crack in the front axle - not sure what the part is called - but it's the end of the axle that the wheel attaches to. It cracked and was leaking hydraulic fluid (axle is filled with hydraulic fluid).
I took it to the dealer when the tractor was still under warranty and they replaced it. When I asked the service manager whether the crack could have been caused by abuse, his comment was: " unless you're driving it off the top of 2 story buildings - no, something like that was not caused by abuse. It was likely just a defective casting".
Wacky
Veteran Member
My neighbor has the exact same tractor with BOTH stops broke off, one on each wheel. He has had them replaced and broke them off again. His unit is about the same shape as yours and he has just been driving around for 3 yrs without a problem. So, it is up to you if you think you need them. He hasn't thought of changing them again because of the high cost just for the part.
That's good to know, I was worried that the steering cylinder might get damaged because when you turn the steering wheel all the way to the right there is nothing to limit the travel.
SSdoxie
Elite Member
I would be cautious, concerned about running without steering stops incorrect adjsuted stops. The stop and the tie rod need to work together if in a tigt turn and a front tire falls in a rut, hits a rock, or that landscape timber you're trying to avoid. Without a stop or one set too short all the impact pressure is applied to the tie rod which can bend the rod or possibly a failure like gwdixon posted here. Not saying that's what happened to his but is a possibilty. having a stop set too long would cause all the impact energy to be applied to the stop bolt because the tie rod still have available travel, and a failure like the OP posted could happen. Again not saying this is what happened but se sure to set those stops correctly.
Do not know how Kubota says to adjust theirs, in my service manual on the Bbocat says first make sure tires are same size and equal air pressure then turn stop bolt in, turn wheel fully to end of tie rod movement, turn the stop bolt out until it touches the axle then add about 1/4 turn and lock jam nut. Repeat for other side.
Do not know how Kubota says to adjust theirs, in my service manual on the Bbocat says first make sure tires are same size and equal air pressure then turn stop bolt in, turn wheel fully to end of tie rod movement, turn the stop bolt out until it touches the axle then add about 1/4 turn and lock jam nut. Repeat for other side.
SPYDERLK
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I think you could buy cheap or make a clamp collar to appropriately limit travel of the hyd steering cyl. It would need a small relieved area on one end of the ID to avoid the rod seal.
larry
larry
gwdixon
Elite Member
After consulting with the guys over on the TBN Welding Forum there may be a chance that the part can be welded back on.
First, the missing piece needs to be found.
Since it is only a stop, instead of a crucial part like a tie rod mount subject to a variety of forces, a weld can be made to just hold it in place.
Grind a 45 degree angle on the broken piece on the wheel side of the break. Have it penetrate a half inch to 3/4 inch. This will give you a "V" trough in which to deposit the weld. (Grinding the "V" on the other side, the frame side, would make for a stronger fix but would be harder to access to weld. It would require more welding skills. Modify the instructions below if that is the choice.)
Get some 3/32" 7018AC rod for the AC welder - make sure it states AC on the box.
Preheat the welded area, both sides, with a propane torch - not blazing hot but plenty warm. Run a stringer in the bottom of the "V" to attach the pieces. Clean the slag and run another straight stringer that ties into the first stringer. Then another on the broken-off piece. Continue running straight stringers until the "V" is filled. Do a bottom stringer and then build on that for each layer - let gravity be your friend. The last set of welds may take four or five stingers. Be sure to clean the slag each pass.
Grind a small "V" and fill with a single stringer on other side to prevent the main welds from shrinking and pulling the other side of the broken piece slightly away. Weld the small stinger after the first stringer on the main "V". (If you initally ground the large "V" on the frame side then do the smaller "V" on the tire side, of course.)
The tire will have to be removed to give better access. Using the bucket to lift and a jack stand should be enough.
BTW, if the sparks from grinding are orange then the piece is cast steel and the above method should work. If the sparks are cherry red then it is cast iron and a whole different set of procedures should be used.
This is not the best fix but will do for the particular use and the materials/tools that you have available. Sometimes a "farmer fix" will last quite a while.
First, the missing piece needs to be found.
Since it is only a stop, instead of a crucial part like a tie rod mount subject to a variety of forces, a weld can be made to just hold it in place.
Grind a 45 degree angle on the broken piece on the wheel side of the break. Have it penetrate a half inch to 3/4 inch. This will give you a "V" trough in which to deposit the weld. (Grinding the "V" on the other side, the frame side, would make for a stronger fix but would be harder to access to weld. It would require more welding skills. Modify the instructions below if that is the choice.)
Get some 3/32" 7018AC rod for the AC welder - make sure it states AC on the box.
Preheat the welded area, both sides, with a propane torch - not blazing hot but plenty warm. Run a stringer in the bottom of the "V" to attach the pieces. Clean the slag and run another straight stringer that ties into the first stringer. Then another on the broken-off piece. Continue running straight stringers until the "V" is filled. Do a bottom stringer and then build on that for each layer - let gravity be your friend. The last set of welds may take four or five stingers. Be sure to clean the slag each pass.
Grind a small "V" and fill with a single stringer on other side to prevent the main welds from shrinking and pulling the other side of the broken piece slightly away. Weld the small stinger after the first stringer on the main "V". (If you initally ground the large "V" on the frame side then do the smaller "V" on the tire side, of course.)
The tire will have to be removed to give better access. Using the bucket to lift and a jack stand should be enough.
BTW, if the sparks from grinding are orange then the piece is cast steel and the above method should work. If the sparks are cherry red then it is cast iron and a whole different set of procedures should be used.
This is not the best fix but will do for the particular use and the materials/tools that you have available. Sometimes a "farmer fix" will last quite a while.
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