BX Broken front axle

[kcender]

I pretty much agree with this but the rods should be 3/32",there is a huge difference between 3/32" and 3/16" rods.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I pretty much agree with this but the rods should be 3/32",there is a huge difference between 3/32" and 3/16" rods.

Good catch there on the rod size typo. I cant think of any uses for3/16" low hydrogen rods, maybe flat welding of super thick plates. I never use anything larger than 1/8" regardless of thickness.

 

[gwdixon]

Yep, my bad!!!! Don't know where the brain cells went.

3/32" rod for sure - not 3/16". Talk about overkill. (Prior post edited.)

The only 3/16" rod I have is Stoody 31 hardfacing.

 

[V1Rotate]

Thanks for all the info. I am still looking for the missing piece that broke off. If I can't find it, I was thinking of just welding a big nut onto the casting then threading a bolt into that nut. I would then adjust the length of the bolt so the steering stop will be correct and use a second nut as a jam nut to keep it from coming loose. Does this sound like it might work?

 

[gwdixon]

If you can't find the missing piece then your idea sounds like a fix that might work. The large nut will need to be heavily welded.

I would still grind a "V" on one of the flat faces to give the weld good penetration into the base metal. The two flat faces adjacent to the welded face already have a "V" to work on. Like this: \__/ In other words, weld the nut all the way around the base of it.

When welding on the nut leave the bolt threaded into it. It may keep the nut from warping enough to prevent the bolt from threading in later. You could always buy a tap to clean out the nut but it should be unnecessary.

A second jamb nut is a good idea. But I'll bet the welded nut would be warped enough to grab the bolt quite tightly.

 

[V1Rotate]

Thanks for the input, I will let you know how I make out, although it be a week or two before I get to it.

 

[V1Rotate]

Update

I couldn't find the piece that broke off so my brother and I fabricated a new one out of a piece of 1/2 by 1 inch flat stock. We beveled the edges and welded it to the steering knuckle casting (not sure what you call it) with an AC stick welder using 6013 rod. We then welded a nut and bolt to that to act as the steering stop, just like the original.
Weld penetration looked good so I thought we fixed it but after just a few minutes of mowing it broke off again.

Guess I'll have to buy a new steering knuckle.

 

[Bluegill2]

Welding cast iron is tricky. 6013 rod isn't the right rod.

I've had limited success weld cast with nickel rods.

 

[gwdixon]

First, you can't be sure if it is cast iron or cast steel. I'd guess cast steel. An earlier post had a test to determine what you have.

Beveling the weld area was good as was welding a nut to the fabbed piece. 6013 welding rod is where the story turns dark. That rod is not made for the circumstances of repairing in this case. It is a shallow penetration, relatively weak rod, meant for welding thin metal. In bend tests it is the first to break.

If AC is the only available process then get some 7018AC rod (Tractor Supply carries it in Hobart brand). Grind off the 6013.

Bevel the new piece again on both sides until it is like a knife point "V" so that you can get a 100% weld. Weld one side then the other again and again until you have built the smaller "V" into a large "A". That will mean a lot of welding stringers. It will take 6 to 8 rods of 3/32" rod (100 amps) or 4 to 5 if you go with 1/8" rod (125 amps). This is a guess, of course.

Since you have decided that a new casting will be bought anyway there is no reason not to try to weld the he|| out of it. It just may work.

 

[Bluegill2]

Also, the repair piece looks taller than needs be. Closer to the housing you can get it, will make it much stronger.