BX radiator screen

[oldnslo]

Hi all,
Finally worked my BX1850 hard enough last night that is was getting warmer than normal and I was going to clean the screen and it would only come out part way.

Should this screen in front of the radiator pull all the way out or does it have a safety catch to prevent it from being removed completely? Figured should ask before I break something.

TIA

Roy

 

[AceDeuce]

It should come all the way out. Can you see what it is catching on? Once upon a time mine had foam pads next to the track the screen fits into, I guess to keep it from rattling, but they got caught on everything and eventually got ripped out. Maybe stuck on something like that???

 

[oldnslo]

It should come all the way out. Can you see what it is catching on? Once upon a time mine had foam pads next to the track the screen fits into, I guess to keep it from rattling, but they got caught on everything and eventually got ripped out. Maybe stuck on something like that???

It looked like it was catching on a lip on the reservoir. It was getting close to dark and I was getting tired so I just ran it in the shed, let it cool down to normal and shut it off. Figured will tear into tonight since I want to use it some more this week end.

thanks Ace

Roy

 

[radioman]

nothing to it. if it catches, shake it at an angle it back a bit. will slide right out.

 

[oldnslo]

Radiator screen removal.

On my 1850 there is a plastic C-shaped channel that is fastened to the bottom of the screen. It is wide enough that I had to reach in past the battery and squeeze it together and then carefully wiggle it out. Installing it was equally difficult. Worst part is after removeing the screen, blowing out all of the dandelion fuzz etc. Moved 8 - 9 yards of dirtwith FEL and it runs just fine. Mowed lawn for about 20 minutes and it got warm again so guess I will have to pull the battery and get the garden hose out and give the radiator a bath to see how much mud flushes out.

thanks for the help guys

Roy

 

[savageactor7]

Hi oldnslo, if it's hanging up you're not cleaning it often enough...that's not a slight, just an observation.

If you notice pollen or other windborn particulates on your windshield/ picnic table etc... then maintainence on all air filtration systems become daily or hourly.

We were brush hogging for the last 4 days and every hour or so had to stop back to air down all screens, filters, radiator, barrel filter etc...

...thank God for the rain last night. It was particular dusty cause we didn't have rain for the last 15 or so days either. If it's hot and dry all air filtration systems should be cleaned before you leave the shed.

 

[oldnslo]

Hi oldnslo, if it's hanging up you're not cleaning it often enough...that's not a slight, just an observation.

Not taken as a slight. I bought this used last fall and don't know when or if the PO ever cleaned the screen. Screen and Radiator where both 1/3 to 1/2 covered with dandelion fuzz. Wish the radiator was more accessable from the fan side.

Roy

 

[TripleR]

Not taken as a slight. I bought this used last fall and don't know when or if the PO ever cleaned the screen. Screen and Radiator where both 1/3 to 1/2 covered with dandelion fuzz. Wish the radiator was more accessible from the fan side.

Roy

How are you cleaning your screens I have found compressed are to be really effective.

 

[oldnslo]

I used compressed air and blew the screen and radiator out but did not remove the battery. Will have to remove the battery and see what is hiding behind it. In looking through the radiator around the battery it all looked clean so I suspect that there may be some debris behind the battery.

Fan belt is tight and overflow tank is full. Will pull the radiator cap when cold and check coolant level again. Small air leak can fool a person into thinking the coolant level is fine when in reality the radiator is low since it doesn't draw fluid back when it cools down.

appreciate the advice

Roy

 

[TripleR]

I used compressed air and blew the screen and radiator out but did not remove the battery. Will have to remove the battery and see what is hiding behind it. In looking through the radiator around the battery it all looked clean so I suspect that there may be some debris behind the battery.

Fan belt is tight and overflow tank is full. Will pull the radiator cap when cold and check coolant level again. Small air leak can fool a person into thinking the coolant level is fine when in reality the radiator is low since it doesn't draw fluid back when it cools down.

appreciate the advice

Roy

Looks like you are way ahead of me, good luck and let us know what you discover, Larry

 

[dodge man]

Just a note, BX owners often complain that they run on the hot side when being worked hard, espically when mowing. Mine get pretty high on the gauge, maybe 1/2 inch to 1 inch from the red mark on the gauge. I've was told by my Kubota dealer that this was normal, and they told me this when they delivered the machine.

 

[TripleR]

Just a note, BX owners often complain that they run on the hot side when being worked hard, espically when mowing. Mine get pretty high on the gauge, maybe 1/2 inch to 1 inch from the red mark on the gauge. I've was told by my Kubota dealer that this was normal, and they told me this when they delivered the machine.

Yeah, both BXs I've owned ran like that and I just got use to it. Even my 5030 shows a little higher than I like, but it has never over heated.

 

[oldnslo]

SInce I am one of the rookies on these BX's but not as a BS'er I have a couple more questions.

1) When using the FEL the gauge will come up around half way and stay there usually run engine around 2,000 - 2,300 RPM when doing this.

2) When mowing lawn I generally run engine around 2,500 - 2,800 RPM and the temp climbs to 3/4. Is this supposedly normal? It is within a quarter inch of the red. I do not have any way of taking actual engine temps.

I have opened the hood and it feels like the fan is moving a lot of air, you feel the heat be blown out over the engine and up against the hood.

Don't want to cook the little beast but also don't want to be chasing ghosts..

TIA

Roy

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

SInce I am one of the rookies on these BX's but not as a BS'er I have a couple more questions.

1) When using the FEL the gauge will come up around half way and stay there usually run engine around 2,000 - 2,300 RPM when doing this.

2) When mowing lawn I generally run engine around 2,500 - 2,800 RPM and the temp climbs to 3/4. Is this supposedly normal? It is within a quarter inch of the red. I do not have any way of taking actual engine temps.

I have opened the hood and it feels like the fan is moving a lot of air, you feel the heat be blown out over the engine and up against the hood.

Don't want to cook the little beast but also don't want to be chasing ghosts..

TIA

Roy

This appears to be the normal for the BX's. My BX2660 would shoot to red when I wasn't watching a couple of times, once in winter snow moving and once in hot summer. Turned engine off and right back on, needle settled back to middle or slightly above. I also raised hood and didn't seem overly warm. Gauges and grounds and senders can all be a bit different.

 

[Volfandt]

SInce I am one of the rookies on these BX's but not as a BS'er I have a couple more questions.

1) When using the FEL the gauge will come up around half way and stay there usually run engine around 2,000 - 2,300 RPM when doing this.

2) When mowing lawn I generally run engine around 2,500 - 2,800 RPM and the temp climbs to 3/4. Is this supposedly normal? It is within a quarter inch of the red. I do not have any way of taking actual engine temps.

I have opened the hood and it feels like the fan is moving a lot of air, you feel the heat be blown out over the engine and up against the hood.

Don't want to cook the little beast but also don't want to be chasing ghosts..

TIA

Roy

Roy, working a MMM, RFM or Brush hog is the largest load most tractors of any model will work. Tillers, and in winter time snow blowers rate right up there also. The harder the load the harder the engine will work which will generate more heat. This is normal.
FEL/backhoe work, towing, back bladeing/rakeing etc., doesn't load the engine as much so it doesn't generate as much heat.
What happens over time is debris collects and cloggs the radiator along the bottom and works it's way up. Using a leaf blower or air gun from an air compressor will clean the top area but doesn't get the lower area so the BX will still run hotter.
I've found that an air gun with a long shaft that'll reach down between the fan blades will get all that bottom debris out and my BX will run cooler. During mowing season I blow that area out after every 3rd or 4th mow (alittle over 4 acres) and my BX23's temp gauge goes no further than a hair below halfway. When it does start to climb above I know I need to blow that lower radiator area out.
After a few yr's and season working your BX, you'll get to know it's signs

re. cool down. The best way to cool a diesel down is to remove the load and idle down to the lowest AND smoothest rpm you can and let it cool itself down. Immediately shutting one down doesn't cool it any faster and as a matter of fact, it'll retain it's heat longer since theres no coolant moving through the heat exchanger (radiator) and no air moving across it to cool it.
Course if the tractor has leaked/steamed all it's coolant out one will want to immediately shutdown to avoid serious damage, as theres no coolant to circulate.
Good luck
Dave

 

[TripleR]

SInce I am one of the rookies on these BX's but not as a BS'er I have a couple more questions.

1) When using the FEL the gauge will come up around half way and stay there usually run engine around 2,000 - 2,300 RPM when doing this.

2) When mowing lawn I generally run engine around 2,500 - 2,800 RPM and the temp climbs to 3/4. Is this supposedly normal? It is within a quarter inch of the red. I do not have any way of taking actual engine temps.

I have opened the hood and it feels like the fan is moving a lot of air, you feel the heat be blown out over the engine and up against the hood.

Don't want to cook the little beast but also don't want to be chasing ghosts..

TIA

Roy

Yep, pretty normal.

 

[oldnslo]

Thanks Guys,
I will still pull the battery for a look-see before I work it hard again. My time and peace of mind is cheaper then Bota engines. New to me vehicle and still trying to get used to what is normal.

Roy

 

[EE_Bota]

I wrote up something on my temperature gauge one time. It yours is similar, I would be concerned about 1/8" from the hot mark.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...63-pressure-testing-bx2200-3.html#post1588614

 

[oldnslo]

Thanks EE

more things to check in my "spare time"

Roy

 

[montelatici]

I wrote up something on my temperature gauge one time. It yours is similar, I would be concerned about 1/8" from the hot mark.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...63-pressure-testing-bx2200-3.html#post1588614

The temp sensor on the BX1850 is just above the exhaust. My BX24 never went past the halfway mark even with the 60 inch MMM. The needle on BX1850's temp gauge from new went to nearly touching the red on hot days with the 54 inch MMM and for some people went into the red. There was an answer on the Kubota site "OrangeTractortalk" from a Kubota service rep. I shot the hottest spot on the block I could find with an IR thermometer, with the needle nearly in the red and it registered 217 degrees, which is normal.

This is the service guy's answer on the Kubota site:

"Originally Posted by Service Dept Vic View Post

Anyone that owns a BX1850 has the same issue because the sender is located ontop of the muffler!

I'd recommend putting an actual guage on that engine to ensure it's not really overheating, which it probably isn't, but it's a good measure of safety!

Try to shield the location where you attach the guage when you're doing this test (same spot as current temp sender) with a large ceramic tile, asbestos sheet, or some other non heat conducting product so you can get an accurate true temperature reading on the engine.

If the temp is normal, and it probably is, take a look on the engine for a different location that will accept a new sender unit.

If you can't find one, remove the radiator and take it to a rad shop and have them solder in a threaded port to accept your sender unit. make sure to take them the new sender so they can match the metric threading required to accept you sender.

Have them locate that port in a location that is FAR away from the horizontal under hood muffler system that you have now.

Install new 50/50 coolant, replace the rad cap, adjust the fan belt tension, extend the length of the wiring to reach the location of your new sender, and you're done. Leave the old sender inplace on the cylinder head as a "water plug".

An hour or two of your time and $100 bucks at the rad shop and Bob's your Uncle!! "