BX stability

[AHNC]

From the previous "Tippy Tales" post i want to ask a few questions. As my tractor is out west and I'm not moving there until Aug, I've been a very infrequent operator of my 2660. i only have 1.5 ac so I don't need any more machine. What I got from TT's post and responses is:

Remove the FEL. That makes perfect sense.

Stay off a wet slope

Fill the rear tires. What is best for this?

Make sure the tractor/3ph controls the implement and not the other way around

I do back straight up my slope. I have a walnut stump I'm leaving in place for tie-off or drag-line. I used to pipeline and we used to take D9's up and down some amazing slopes. Tremendous operators!

The lower line of my property is a decending, about 45 deg cross slope. I'm going to get a box blade, tie off the tractor and recut that along the fence line for better, flatter, safer access to the lower portion of the property. I've had a wheel up a couple times there and had to have a friend step on and that brought it down in good shape, but I have to make that easily travelled. I think a box blade will do that job...yes? It is good soil and no ledge or tree roots.

Any other pearls of wisdom concerning safe tractor and BX operation especially
on hills, slopes or otherwise would be much appreciated. As always, much obligled for your help!

 

[Grandad4]

I would advise against taking your BX on a 45 degree (100%) slope, even if you have it tied off. That's way beyond what it was designed for. For one thing, the fluid pickup in the hydrostatic transmission will probably be sucking air, not fluid, at that angle and the tractor will freewheel.

Hopefully your slope is not too long from top to bottom. If you can, try to re-grade the slope without actually trying to drive up or down (or sideways, obiously ) something that steep, by cutting in at the top and using your material as fill at the bottom, for example.

You do have FEL as well as boxblade, right? Toothbar on FEL helps a lot for this kind of work.

 

[TripleR]

Can't help much with the degree of slope, but you might consider putting rear wheel spacers.

I put wheel weights on my BX as opposed to fluid as it makes it easier to fix flats.

For some things, I have found it preferable to rent the right machine rather than "make do" with what you have.

Good luck.

 

[ultrarunner]

Having my rear tires foam filled made a significant difference... the only flat places on my land are are areas that have been leveled...

My Backhoe also digs better with the extra weight and no more flats.

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

I've had alot of tractors and still have a few. I had a steep hillside that I wanted cross ways trails so I could drive across them in a RTV with my Grands. To steep for me to do so I had a friend with a track loader cut about 4 or 5 cross trails. He did for a couple hundred dollars what would have taken me weeks (scary weeks) to do.
A man with a tractor always needs to admit when he has a job that needs to be done with a more specialized piece of equipment. Save your equipment and your life and pay for someone else to do it.
I now can drive all over my hillside with RTV or tractor by going back and forth across hill and up and down at the ends of each across "trail".

 

[radioman]

I'm gonna disagree here. I don't think renting is a viable option, after all he stated 1.5 acres so renting a machine just for a little job? Now hold your horses everyone.. I am not saying go ahead and risk it . I have driven my BX on a 45, there sure is a pucker factor. Before I had tires filled with rimguard it would feel shaky on 45 sideways. Now, with FEL off, MMM attached, rears filled and and drive slow in low with butt on side of side leaning over and foot on diff lock, I can mow in the tight spot in ditch going around utility pole. :thumbsup: Its not shaky, but pucker factor is there but not high. I tried it with ,my BH on, if th boom was uphill it helps, but too much work, so I do it without BH attached.
Anybody cringe yet from my statement above ?:laughing:

I found using diff lock helps when you start slipping on a slope.

For filling rears, I find that any bioballast liquid is just as good as anything on the market. Since the rear tires are small side, it doesnt make sense to use the heaviest liquid cacuim chloride, rimguard or simalar in your area is the next best liquid ballast. no tubes, no fuss! :thumbsup:

 

[Tom_H]

In my younger years (3 decades ago) I rock climbed and skied triple black diamond runs, including things like jumping off the lip of a cornice and free falling to the run below. I also put the roof on my house and out buildings. I say all this to make the point that the average person cannot accurately judge slope. Most people would stand on a 5/12 roof and say that it has a 45 degree pitch. In actuality, it takes an equal rise and run of 12/12 (100%) to make a 45 degree angle. When standing on an actual 45 degree slope, the average person would estimate the slope to be 80 or more degrees. To the person who does not spend great amounts of time on extreme slopes, the eye and brain, in an effort to avoid potentially fatal consequences, draw incorrect conclusions. The slightest motion, bump, or irregularity is going to cause any tractor on a 45 degree slope (assuming it's not staked down) to go into a tumble that doesn't stop until it hits bottom. This is not just an informed opinion; it's a matter of physics, involving gravity and tangential force. I recommend taking a short building level and either a (geometry drawing) compass or an angle ruler and make an accurate measurement of this slope. Place the lower arm parallel to the slope and hold the upper arm with the bubble level, opening the angle until the upper arm is level with the horizon. Having an accurate instrument measured degree of slope would allow us to give a more well informed opinion.

 

[AHNC]

These things are difficult for me to describe, apparently! It is not a 100% slope. I'm nuts, but not crazy. The property is shaped like Nevada. The north end is flat and it drops off to a point or the bottom (Las Wages?). I have a fig tree tat kinda drips down the hillside and only leaves a 20' or so clear area that I can traverse down the angle, which is the part I'm either going to do myself or get someone to do. Safety first! With the crown and the grade it puts it off camber which is what puts my shorts in a knot. Once down at the point the slope is fairly steep but I've backed straight up it with the bush hog before. I've pretty much reclaimed that slope and will recontour the break at the top, with the box blade as well.

TR, i've had flat tire problems and like the idea of wheel weights as an alternative. Thanks for the links. :thumbsup:

 

[Grandad4]

I'm gonna disagree here. I don't think renting is a viable option, after all he stated 1.5 acres so renting a machine just for a little job? Now hold your horses everyone.. I am not saying go ahead and risk it . I have driven my BX on a 45, there sure is a pucker factor. Before I had tires filled with rimguard it would feel shaky on 45 sideways. Now, with FEL off, MMM attached, rears filled and and drive slow in low with butt on side of side leaning over and foot on diff lock, I can mow in the tight spot in ditch going around utility pole. :thumbsup: Its not shaky, but pucker factor is there but not high. I tried it with ,my BH on, if th boom was uphill it helps, but too much work, so I do it without BH attached.
Anybody cringe yet from my statement above ?:laughing:
:

Yeah, I'm cringing! You really mow a 45 deg sideslope with your BX? My BX is set up the same for mowing, complete with butt leaning on the side, but my pucker factor sets in at about half that, or less, for a sideslope. Admittedly it never seems close to lifting a wheel, but I'm just a big ol' chicken, I guess. :laughing:

 

[SPYDERLK]

In my younger years (3 decades ago) I rock climbed and skied triple black diamond runs, including things like jumping off the lip of a cornice and free falling to the run below. I also put the roof on my house and out buildings. I say all this to make the point that the average person cannot accurately judge slope. Most people would stand on a 5/12 roof and say that it has a 45 degree pitch. In actuality, it takes an equal rise and run of 12/12 (100%) to make a 45 degree angle. When standing on an actual 45 degree slope, the average person would estimate the slope to be 80 or more degrees. To the person who does not spend great amounts of time on extreme slopes, the eye and brain, in an effort to avoid potentially fatal consequences, draw incorrect conclusions. The slightest motion, bump, or irregularity is going to cause any tractor on a 45 degree slope (assuming it's not staked down) to go into a tumble that doesn't stop until it hits bottom. This is not just an informed opinion; it's a matter of physics, involving gravity and tangential force. I recommend taking a short building level and either a (geometry drawing) compass or an angle ruler and make an accurate measurement of this slope. Place the lower arm parallel to the slope and hold the upper arm with the bubble level, opening the angle until the upper arm is level with the horizon. Having an accurate instrument measured degree of slope would allow us to give a more well informed opinion.

Yaa-ay..! Glad youre here to set these things straight. Otherwise Id have to. -- A BX is OK to about 29 degrees on a sideslope carrying a MMM and nothing else. It will climb slightly more than 30 degrees. Other equipment configurations will be a detriment.
larry

 

[oldballs]

I guess a BX outshines the larger "B" models due to its lower COG. Yet that's the same reason it is relatively poor for plowing. Thus you have the best machine for the job. Just don't push your luck.