BX1850 engine trouble

[MessickFarmEqu]

point from a dealer... in warrenty, never run anything outside the spec for the engine. If this had failed in warrenty, it would be a much more difficult job to get a replacment engine. Even if the oil was not the cause, its going to be the leading suspect, especialy in a failure like this thats so uncommon.

 

[drag_slick]

point from a dealer... in warrenty, never run anything outside the spec for the engine. If this had failed in warrenty, it would be a much more difficult job to get a replacment engine. Even if the oil was not the cause, its going to be the leading suspect, especialy in a failure like this thats so uncommon.

Outside of spec meaning brand, viscosity or both? My dealer actually recommended running 15w-40 which I believe is out of spec.

 

[kuboman]

It wernt the oil!!!!!! 5-30 will not damage any engine in any climate. You had crank bearing failure which was likely a result of poor material or poor assembly which happens even to the best. Slightly elevated silicon is normal, the other metals is bearing material.
Crap happens, to bad it waited till warranty ran out. I had a $15000 engine overhaul go bad at 200hrs because of faulty parts.
Crap happens

 

[IH3444]

Could you tell us the brand of synthetic oil that you used? I am leaning towards the crank, or line bored block crank caps possibly being out of alignment. A bearing cap inadvertantly turned around 180 degrees by mistake during assembly. I would disassemble engine. Inspect, check bores, have crank checked for straightness at a good machine shop. See if undersized bearings were available. Check rod big ends for roundness, resize if out of round. hve aline bore checked for straightness. Turned cranked, with new bearing, torqued properly into the block should turn by hand very easy. If you are not set up for this kind of work, a new short block from the dealer is the most inexpensive way to go.

Synthetic oils are engineered oils with addative packages that out perform standard oils. They are knowned for resistance to shear forces, 3 to 4 times greater than conventional oils. The 5w-40 should not be an issue, especially with no over heating problems. My New Holland manual recommends standard NH oil, 10w-30 for year round operations. A good 5w-40 synthetic oil will out perform that.

 

[dodge man]

I agree with the others, the oil had nothing to do with it, I don't care what Kubota says he should have been running for spec. He could have been using cooking oil in the crankcase and the thing should have lasted 300 hours. There are so many things it could be, until the engine is torn down, we won't know. Even then, the problem may not be obvious.

 

[IH3444]

Drag Slick, Drag Slick......come in Drag Slick, ......beep, beep, beep.

 

[drag_slick]

New engine is in, gotta pick 'er up from the hospital this weekend. My buddy hasn't had a chance to tear into the old one other than dropping the pan.

I'll update when I find out more.

Drag Slick, Drag Slick......come in Drag Slick, ......beep, beep, beep.

 

[Larry Caldwell]

I do also have an oil analysis report, if there's any values anybody's curious about, they did flag tin and aluminum as high, and silicon was a little elevated.

The most common cause of hammered bearings is lugging a diesel. If you didn't keep the RPMs up under load, you destroyed the engine.

 

[drag_slick]

The most common cause of hammered bearings is lugging a diesel. If you didn't keep the RPMs up under load, you destroyed the engine.

It wasn't lugged, HST makes it easy NOT to do that.

 

[drag_slick]

Well, apparently it was my fault, I ran her a little dry. This spring I was pushing snow down a hill that runs along the south side of my road. So it was push a pile down, back up, push down, back up, etc... all along the road. Too much time pointing downhill on a pretty decent slope ran the oil to the front of the sump, exposed the pickup and well... the rest is history.

Was an expensive mistake to make.

 

[radioman]

huh?! ar eyou saying if the BX is at a angle its gonna run dry even with proper oil levels?!

 

[Gary T.]

If you lost oil pressure while doing tractor work on a hill you should have seen your low oil pressure light come on. For your tractor to starve for oil on a hill I would think you would have to be very low on oil. If your tractor was serviced with the correct amount of oil, I don't see how you would run low on oil with a tractor that only has 300 hours on it.

To those of you that said it was the oil. I've been using amsoil in everything I own (cars, truck, jet ski's, boat, ATV, RTV, race car, and tractors). As others have said, it was not the oil.

 

[drag_slick]

The oil was full, it was the first thing I checked when I first saw the light flicker at idle. If the light did come on while I was pushing snow I didn't see it, but by that time you're at only 7psi.

 

[leonz]

huh?! ar eyou saying if the BX is at a angle its gonna run dry even with proper oil levels?!

I would venture the slope or snow pile was above 21 degrees in incline and it (the crankcase) was low and it starved due to the upper and lower crankcase pans/reservoirs with inadequate oil levels and that starved the oil pump and then ruined it.

Our Kubota work buggies had the dual oil pans for upper and lower reservoirs and we always had to check them (both dip sticks) for adequate oil level before advancing up the mine slopes.

The small Kubota engines have been built with the dual oil pans for many years due to the steep slopes and terraces on many rice farms using their engines for rice planters and harvesters and small tractors.:thumbsup:

 

[drag_slick]

I would venture the slope or snow pile was above 21 degrees in incline and it (the crankcase) was low and it starved due to the upper and lower crankcase pans/reservoirs with inadequate oil levels and that starved the oil pump and then ruined it.

Again, oil was full. I'll have to get out the clino and check the slope.

Not sure what you mean about upper and lower pans?

 

[Gary T.]

Did you ever figure out what let go, rod bearing, crank bearing? I always thought that oil starvation generally causes lower rod bearing problems. I would think if you had a crankshaft bearing problem, it was from a manufacturing problem, or dirt/metal in the oil.

If you are rebuilding the old engine, you'll want to figure out what caused the failure. If you are buying a new crate motor then guess it doesn't matter, but I would still want to know.

Good Luck,
Gary T.

 

[drag_slick]

Crank bearings are hammered, can't remember what the rod bearings looked like, I'll look again. Went with a new engine.

 

[dodge man]

I'm not sure, but I don't think BX's have dual level oil pans. They don't have two dipstick either.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Well, apparently it was my fault, I ran her a little dry. This spring I was pushing snow down a hill that runs along the south side of my road. So it was push a pile down, back up, push down, back up, etc... all along the road. Too much time pointing downhill on a pretty decent slope ran the oil to the front of the sump, exposed the pickup and well... the rest is history.

Was an expensive mistake to make.

The oil was full, it was the first thing I checked when I first saw the light flicker at idle. If the light did come on while I was pushing snow I didn't see it, but by that time you're at only 7psi.

Oil level was not the cause in that case. I operate frequently and long term mowing on a 30 degree slope -- steep enuf that it is very close to the traction limit. No ill effects and mine is only in the "safe" zone - not completely full.
larry

 

[drag_slick]

Oil level was not the cause in that case. I operate frequently and long term mowing on a 30 degree slope -- steep enuf that it is very close to the traction limit. No ill effects and mine is only in the "safe" zone - not completely full.
larry

Larry,

When you get to the bottom of the hill do you turn around and go back up, or do you just hit reverse and back up the hill?