Snow BX2230 with Curtis Cab and Snow blower: Let it sno
- Thread starter stevenw
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Poppa
Gold Member
Steve,
Great job. Sorry I jumped in earlier, I deleted that post to keep yours intact. Like I said, I never really thought about a cab before but after looking at yours I just spent some time daydreaming and scanning the Curtis Web Site. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Again, congratulations on some fine work.
Mike
Great job. Sorry I jumped in earlier, I deleted that post to keep yours intact. Like I said, I never really thought about a cab before but after looking at yours I just spent some time daydreaming and scanning the Curtis Web Site. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Again, congratulations on some fine work.
Mike
NY_Yankees_Fan
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2002
- Messages
- 2,206
- Tractor
- Kubota BX 2200
Steve,
Thanks for the pictures they were GREAT!!! The electric motor for the chute rotator was just what I needed. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Thanks for the pictures they were GREAT!!! The electric motor for the chute rotator was just what I needed. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Folks,
I have had some questions about the wiring for the Electric Rotator.
The switch it called a double pole double throw. The motor has two wires coming out of it. When positive is on one lead and negative is on the other the motor will spin. Reverse the positive and negative and the motor reverses. The switch will have six blades and will look like this:
1 2 3
4 5 6
Here is how you wire the switch. 1 and 6 will be wired to positive battery. 4 and 3 will be wired to negative battery. 2 and 5 will go to the electric motor. When the switch is toggled and held in place to 1 and 4 the motor will go in one direction. When the switch is released it will stay in the middle and the motor will stop. When the switch is toggled and held to 3 and 6 the motor will run in the opposite direction.
Hope this helps... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Steve
I have had some questions about the wiring for the Electric Rotator.
The switch it called a double pole double throw. The motor has two wires coming out of it. When positive is on one lead and negative is on the other the motor will spin. Reverse the positive and negative and the motor reverses. The switch will have six blades and will look like this:
1 2 3
4 5 6
Here is how you wire the switch. 1 and 6 will be wired to positive battery. 4 and 3 will be wired to negative battery. 2 and 5 will go to the electric motor. When the switch is toggled and held in place to 1 and 4 the motor will go in one direction. When the switch is released it will stay in the middle and the motor will stop. When the switch is toggled and held to 3 and 6 the motor will run in the opposite direction.
Hope this helps... /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Steve
NY_Yankees_Fan
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Mar 4, 2002
- Messages
- 2,206
- Tractor
- Kubota BX 2200
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I drilled the hole through it and inserted the stock sheer bolt )</font>
Where did you get the sheer bolt and what size did you use?
Where did you get the sheer bolt and what size did you use?
Junkman
Super Member
He is referring to the stock bolt and nut that holds the crank handle to the chute turning mechanism. The one with the Alan head and Elastic Stop Nut... I wouldn't refer to it as a shear bolt, because it is quite stout for its size.
Av8r3400
Platinum Member
Steven: Super Pictures!!!! Thank you for the info. Could you take a detail picture of how the cab fits around the FEL control? Thanks again!!
Tom,
Junkman is correct. The bolt was the stock bolt that the factory used to connect the rotator crank pole (whatever you want to call it). I assumed it was a sheer bolt but maybe it isn’t. In any event I used it. The motor does not have a lot of torque and will stop on it’s own when it goes all the way to the left or right. I’m sure this isn’t good for it so I try and release the switch before the motor stops. I assume you could relate to this action as the same way the window in your car goes down. If you hold the button the window can’t go any more but hold it long enough frequently enough and I’m sure the motor will be damaged. And that is why I have a spare that can be exchanged in about 15 minutes. 2 nuts and bolts and two wires to splice.
On a different note…I’m looking for suggestions to cover the motor. When snow blowing it gets encrusted in snow…I’m sure this can’t be good for too long. I’m thinking a rubber boot would be nice but haven't found exactly what I’m looking for.
Maybe Junkman Engineering has a solution??? /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
motor picture
Junkman is correct. The bolt was the stock bolt that the factory used to connect the rotator crank pole (whatever you want to call it). I assumed it was a sheer bolt but maybe it isn’t. In any event I used it. The motor does not have a lot of torque and will stop on it’s own when it goes all the way to the left or right. I’m sure this isn’t good for it so I try and release the switch before the motor stops. I assume you could relate to this action as the same way the window in your car goes down. If you hold the button the window can’t go any more but hold it long enough frequently enough and I’m sure the motor will be damaged. And that is why I have a spare that can be exchanged in about 15 minutes. 2 nuts and bolts and two wires to splice.
On a different note…I’m looking for suggestions to cover the motor. When snow blowing it gets encrusted in snow…I’m sure this can’t be good for too long. I’m thinking a rubber boot would be nice but haven't found exactly what I’m looking for.
Maybe Junkman Engineering has a solution??? /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
motor picture
Junkman
Super Member
Spray the motor with silicone and forget it. I doubt that the snow or ice that forms on the motor will have much of a detrimental effect on the motor. They are designed to work in wet environments, since the inside of the door does get wet when it rains. The only consideration is the grease in the reduction gear should be checked and changed if it is the white lithium grease that turns to "soap" after many years of use. Other than that, when it dies, just toss it and replace it. Ima Short-Circuit, Junkman Engineering, Electromechanical Division. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif