BX23 ROPS work lights

[LBrown59]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( 1*I am going to get two pair of those really mini oval driving lamps, point one pair aft and the other forward (angled down) and mounted to a small 1/4" steel plate, protruding out on either side where I will drill mounting holes to accommodate the lights and U-bolt them to the rops.
2*I will run a loom down the rops and underneath to the dash from the connection to the OEM hot wire under the seat and install tiny illuminated toggles somewhere in the dash.
3*I am going to also put a mini pair of fog lamps on the bush guard. The fogs will be dim enough that they won't blind oncoming traffic when turning around by the road while snow blowing in the winter.
4* Looks like I will need the alternator upgrade.
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This is the way i would do it.

View this thread on the web at
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/showthreaded.php?Board=custom&Number=684235
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1*If you do it like I explain in the above link you will only need one pair and you won't need the U bolts. You will also be able to aim the lights by hand (no tools required) wherever you want them at any time. Another advantage is you can install and remove the lights easily and again no tools are required.
2*I would just mount a fuse & one switch somewhere on the line between the lights and the OEM hot wire under the seat. I don't see any advantage to mounting the switch in the dash.
One thing I would not do is connect the lights to the headlight switch. There may be times when you want only the headlights on or just the ROPS lights on.
Also with a sperate switch if you forget to turn off the headlight switch you don't have all the lights draining the battery. I would want the ROPS lights to turn off when the Ignition key is in the off position, that way you can't accidentally leave the lights on and drain the battery
3*Why do you need lights on the grill guard? Won't the regular head lights give you the light you need when snow blowing since you don't have the FEL bucket blocking them when using the snow blower? Then too the FEL bucket will still block the light from lights installed on the grill guard when you have the FEL on the tractor just like it does the headlights. This is why I'm toying with a swinging light on the FEL cross member as it is above the Bucket,
4*I don't think you will need the alternator upgrade if done like I explained.

 

[Bob_Skurka]

I'd also add that I would get a waterproof marine switch to control the power to those lights. A good waterproof switch is going to cost about $8. But they give a lifetime of service and won't corrode out.

I also agree that you probably don't need the alternator upgrade as long as you are not doing most of your work at night. You will draw down your battery a bit, but honestly that is not too big of a deal as long as you don't draw it down too far. For relatively short duration night time uses, which would be common for most people, it should not be a big deal.

 

[53gravely]

I hooked up 3 55 watt lights on my 7610. The rear light is unswitched (goes on with the ignition). FYI the rear fender is factory drilled to accept a rear facing typical round rubber encased utility light and there's a pre wired bayonet connector (red wire with green stripe) right there-- them little Japaneese fellers think of everything!

I bolted 2 more thru the existing holes in the Folding ROPS hinge--just had to grind off the extra length of threaded stud on the lights. Snaked the wires up the inside of the rollbar. I split the same "work light" circut and switched the 2 upper lights.

I temporarily hardwired the upper lights and went for a test ride up the dirt road on a night in July and was immediatly greeted by a swarm of bugs all over me--I pickin' 'em out of my teeth for cryin' out loud.

I then decided YOU WANT A SWITCH on the upper roll bar lights.

 

[Lockport]

Here's the thing. At 5:00 AM when the heavy snow has hit and drifted on the windswept Manitoba plains and it is 35 below with the wind chill, I want lights pointing for and aft and all on at the same time. Granted, fog lights on the roll bar may not be utilized in the winter, but mounted on the lower crossmember of the "BX" grill guard, they will be extremely useful in the summer with the regular headlights as it is unlikely that both will be blocked by the fel at once. Waterproof, illuminated toggles in the dash operating on individual "keyed" circuits. Works for me! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Gowfster]

Pardon me if I've missed it, but is there a description of how to tie into the electrical system for these ROPS lights- what do you need to buy, from whom, where are the appropriate wires to (splice, plug, ?) into that provide the options for always on, key only etc. After trying to dig in the dark of nite with somebody holding a flashlight (no joke) on the bucket, I'm thoroughly convinced I need ROPS lights also! appreciate any pointers to the info... Thanks,

 

[Volfandt]

Depending upon the load your new lights will place upon the system is the best determining factor on how to switch them on & off.
Since the load on mine was small (70 watts total for 2ea 35 watt lights) I opted to run the wire all the way up to the existing light switch and spiced it into the "switched" wire coming off of the switch. You'll need a volt-ohm meter to determine which wire is hot with power on and which is the switched wire (the wire that goes to the lights)
This way the single switch controls all the lights. I also spliced in an inline fuse for the rears. I used a 10 amp fuse. This way if the light or wire shorts out it will blow the fuse and not damage the switch and/or OEM circuits.

I used a pass-through splice to tap into the switch wire. You can get them at TSC and most hardware stores. Using a pass-through splice allows you to tap into an existing wire without cutting it.

It's been working fine without trouble for approx 7 months.

That is how I did it but as you can see in this thread, there are many ways to acomplish it.

Good luck
Volfandt

 

[Devildog]

Nice job on the lights. I need to get some on my tractor before winter sets in.

 

[HarleyScooter]

I also wanted to add more lighting, I wanted a set for the back and a set for out front and a set for lighting up the front tires and mower deck edges. This is what I came up with. All three sets are 55 watt each and run on seperate fused circuits connected to the battery. I also drilled my ROPs but only small holes and taped them for 10-24 screws to hold two sets of lights. I made brackets that mount with u-bolts for the last set of bigger lights (after reading about not drilling the ROPs) and I did install the alternator upgrade.
Scott