Mowing BX24 mowing RPM?

[DaveVales]

I received a Korean-made ultrasound for my job and the translated manual stated:
"It is useless to operate the instrument complexly."

Seems to apply to tractors too

I ran my BX24 <2900 rpm for the first 50 but only did FEL, BH, and 3pt work with it during that time. After the 50 service I cranked it up and mowed the grass at 3000-3200 with BH removed. A friend bought his BX24 at the same time as me. First thing he did was mow a pasture at 3200 rpm with the BH attached, and then he read the manual-ooops??? He has only 10 hours on his, I have 59. We'll see how things play out between the machines over time.

 

[chrisjbell]

Break in period aside, you want to mow with your mower blades moving as fast as possible. For 3PH mowers, run it at the recommended speed to get 540 RPM at the rear PTO (engine RPM varies by tractor). Otherwise, WOT or just a hair below. Faster blade speed is good - better cut.

All the Kubota manuals pretty much stink. One of my favorite stories is about a mistake in the translation for the word "screw" .

 

[ozzie tractor]

tell you friend to not worry about his motor, from what i have seen it will not hurt it, in fact over the years i have seen more problems with engines not being worked hard enough. all kubota's get dyno tested before they leave the engine factory, so i see no point in babying an engine that has already been subject to full rpm and full load on a dynometer. the only thing i do stress is to not change the engine oil until the 50hrs is up, it is running in oil, if you change to a high grade synthetic the motor will not bed the rings in, causing oil consumption issues. in saying that we dont get much in the way of a winter here in australia, so you may run into problems with the original oil in extreme cold. as for what rpm to run the tractor at while mowing, thats simple, absolutely flat out, it will not hurt anything and the mower cuts much better.

 

[MindenKubota]

First... i keep my blades very sharp!! For casual mowing... 2400-2600 RPM, if i hit the tall stuff... 2700-2800, and if i decide to destroy a rainforest... 3200 Wide Open Throttle!!!!

It only make sense to me that the lower the RPM, the longer the engine will last. (although you NEVER want to lug the engine under a load with low RPM's)

 

[Singlecoil]

(although you NEVER want to lug the engine under a load with low RPM's)

Uh, oh. I did that a couple of times with the post hole digger when it hit a rock. How bad is it?

 

[ozzie tractor]

First... i keep my blades very sharp!! For casual mowing... 2400-2600 RPM, if i hit the tall stuff... 2700-2800, and if i decide to destroy a rainforest... 3200 Wide Open Throttle!!!!

It only make sense to me that the lower the RPM, the longer the engine will last. (although you NEVER want to lug the engine under a load with low RPM's)

thats very true, but in the majority of cases the tractor is well and truly worn out before the engine is. that is unless it has had a premature failure, unfortunantly this is usually 95%of the time, with very few engine rebuilds due to normal wear and tear, it seems the big 3 killers are dirt getting into the inlet tract, overheating for 1 reason or another or lack of oil or oil change, (ever knocked a hole in an oil filter). sad but true.

as for the lugging Singlecoil, i think MindenKubota is refering to sustained load at low rpm, a brief shock load may stall the tractor out and doesnt sound good, but over such a short time i doubt it would do any harm, as long as its not 10 times a day every day, then you'd be in trouble.

 

[fishpick]

...are dirt getting into the inlet tract...

The what? Is that a fancy way of saying "past the air filter"?

 

[ozzie tractor]

The what? Is that a fancy way of saying "past the air filter"?

thats because saying past the air filter doesnt quiet cover it, loose or inlet pipes with holes in them are alarmingly common, also the little air filter condition thing can be smashed off or fallen out, dirt can enter there as well.