BX25 Tires slipping, moving RimGard into tubes.

[Diggin It]

It never happened animal after that.

Another AutoCorrect success story?

 

[Rock Crawler]

Another AutoCorrect success story?

Again... not animal

 

[SDT]

My BX25 does primary duty as a dirt digger/mover and when I bought it (used) a month back I had the tires filled with Rim Guard immediately. I run the recommended 18PSI front and 22PSI rear pressure. I was noticing at first that the wheels would chatter and slip/catch/slip in the wheel causing the chattering. After another couple weeks I noticed that instead of spinning tires as I was pushing into a hillside with the loader, the tire(s) would stop moving. At first I thought the axle HST unit was dying, until I leaned over and saw that the wheel was gleefully spinning in the motionless tire. I also noted a shiny damp glaze of rim guard around the wheel/tire interface.

So this past Sunday I removed the back wheels and tires and took them to be pumped out, cleaned, tubes installed and the rim guard pumped back into the tubes. I hope like **** that this solves the issue!

I'm guessing that this is not a normally seen thing, but I suspect the reason the little BX has the issue for me is that the 12" diameter wheel does not near the bead surface area of say a B or L series unit. I suspect that the little wheels with less surface area to grip on could not take the forces while having a fluid trying to lubricate the interface.

I'll let you all know if the slipping rim returns. The bad part is that if they slip now, they will tear the valve stem from the tube and really screw me good and proper. I really did not want tubes, but I see no other solution.

I change all of my own tires and never use liquid ballast. Rather, I use cast iron and counterweights.

I was unaware of this problem and consider it yet another reason to avoid rim guard.

I bought a new B3350 with R-4 tires in June. I found out about two weeks ago that my dealer had loaded the rears with rim guard even though I did not ask for it and did not pay for it. He told me that just about everyone buys it and the shop made a mistake. Not happy but decided to leave it as is to avoid the mess of removing it and cleaning things up.

Its a mowing tractor and will likely never be used for drawbar work so I hope that I have no such issues.

SDT

 

[Rock Crawler]

I change all of my own tires and never use liquid ballast. Rather, I use cast iron and counterweights.

I was unaware of this problem and consider it yet another reason to avoid rim guard.

I bought a new B3350 with R-4 tires in June. I found out about two weeks ago that my dealer had loaded the rears with rim guard even though I did not ask for it and did not pay for it. He told me that just about everyone buys it and the shop made a mistake. Not happy but decided to leave it as is to avoid the mess of removing it and cleaning things up.

Its a mowing tractor and will likely never be used for drawbar work so I hope that I have no such issues.

SDT

You will not slip the tires on the B3350. If it was possible, I'd have done it already.

 

[Diggin It]

Dealer told me they talked to LS and they only have maybe one or two other reports of this, but he didn't say which size tractor or tires.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

It has very little to do with size of tire, or tractor for that matter. It has everything to do with correctly mounting the tire on the rim. If the tire monkeys slop tire snot everywhere when they're mounting the tire to the rim, then you may have issues with the tire spinning in the rim. Some tire monkeys think, "The Bigger the Glob, The Better The Job", and it's not true. If the tire monkeys do a proper job if installing the tire on the rim, and the tire is the correct size for that rim, you will not have issues. The tire goes on the rim and the bead is seated and sealed before the Rimguard goes in the tire. If the tire is properly mounted to the rim, there is no way for the Rimguard to penetrate the bead/seal on the tire/rim, because that seal is "air tight", and thusly, it will be "Rimguard tight" too.

If your tire slips in the rim with Rimguard, it will also slip in the rim if you're using bolt on tire weights. Don't blame the Rimguard, blame the tire monkeys.

I've had Rimguard in my tires since new (1.5 years, 150-ish hours), lots of dirt work and up/down steep grades. No issues.

 

[Diggin It]

If the tire monkeys do a proper job if installing the tire on the rim, and the tire is the correct size for that rim, you will not have issues. The tire goes on the rim and the bead is seated and sealed before the Rimguard goes in the tire. If the tire is properly mounted to the rim, there is no way for the Rimguard to penetrate the bead/seal on the tire/rim, because that seal is "air tight", and thusly, it will be "Rimguard tight" too.

My machine was brand new, less than 5 hours on the clock when I got it. Dealer added the RG after I bought the machine and before initial delivery.

 

[Rock Crawler]

Have you tried digging in damp clay with loaded tires in a subcompact? We went as far as breaking them down, cleaning, applying bead seal, mounting and filling through the stem and still spun them after some time. The solution came with breaking down again, clean, install tubes, bead seal adhesive and install tires and air up tubes. They did not spin in this set up.

We are attributing it to the type of ground traction I was able to get on camp clay along with the small diameter bead that doesn't offer near as much surface area for the bead to grip to. I'm on the same material now with my much larger rims and tires on my new B2650 and no tubes and no bead sealer... zero slipping. But the bead surface area is massive compared to the garden tractor wheels on the BX.

 

[wagne223]

It has very little to do with size of tire, or tractor for that matter. It has everything to do with correctly mounting the tire on the rim. If the tire monkeys slop tire snot everywhere when they're mounting the tire to the rim, then you may have issues with the tire spinning in the rim. Some tire monkeys think, "The Bigger the Glob, The Better The Job", and it's not true. If the tire monkeys do a proper job if installing the tire on the rim, and the tire is the correct size for that rim, you will not have issues. The tire goes on the rim and the bead is seated and sealed before the Rimguard goes in the tire. If the tire is properly mounted to the rim, there is no way for the Rimguard to penetrate the bead/seal on the tire/rim, because that seal is "air tight", and thusly, it will be "Rimguard tight" too.

If your tire slips in the rim with Rimguard, it will also slip in the rim if you're using bolt on tire weights. Don't blame the Rimguard, blame the tire monkeys.

I've had Rimguard in my tires since new (1.5 years, 150-ish hours), lots of dirt work and up/down steep grades. No issues.

Sir, you are showing your ignorance threefold in this post.

1.Insulting service personnel.

2. Not knowing how tire installation lube works.

3. The largest contributing factor to tire on wheel slip is insufficient tire pressure.

It is attitudes like yours that is causing the increasingly difficult task of finding quality service personnel.
Quality people dont want to pursue a career in any trades because of the stereotype that trades people are somehow a lower class in society.

Tire installation lube is designed to dry and leave no lubricating properties behind.
Even 1 day later, if you break down the tire, there will be no lube present.

The volume of lube used is not relevant as upon seating, excess lube is forced out of the sealing area.

The most common (but certainly not the only) cause of tire slippage is insufficient air pressure.
This reduces the friction, and allows foreign material like dirt sticks and water to penetrate the bead further reducing friction.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

Sir, you are showing your ignorance threefold in this post.

1.Insulting service personnel.

2. Not knowing how tire installation lube works.

3. The largest contributing factor to tire on wheel slip is insufficient tire pressure.

It is attitudes like yours that is causing the increasingly difficult task of finding quality service personnel.
Quality people dont want to pursue a career in any trades because of the stereotype that trades people are somehow a lower class in society.

Tire installation lube is designed to dry and leave no lubricating properties behind.
Even 1 day later, if you break down the tire, there will be no lube present.

The volume of lube used is not relevant as upon seating, excess lube is forced out of the sealing area.

The most common (but certainly not the only) cause of tire slippage is insufficient air pressure.
This reduces the friction, and allows foreign material like dirt sticks and water to penetrate the bead further reducing friction.

You are letting your ignorance outrun life experience.

One of my best friends for many decades had worked his way up from a "tire tech (happy?)" in high school to be the operations manager for a *very* large fleet truck tire center in Phx, AZ. He knew more about tires than most mortals, quite likely even you. We had frequent discussions about tires, and tire techs over the decades of time that I knew him. He would be the first one to tell you that most "tire techs" (happy?) are complete idiots, and he had a h*ll of a time (as a fleet truck store manager) finding any with a brain between their ears. Even he called most of them "tire monkeys" (which is where I get the phrase from).

If that "triggers" you, maybe it strikes too close to home? At any rate, it's your issue, not mine, if you don't like it.

Tires not properly sized to the rim, rims with improper bead surface area, tires not properly seated on the rim, are the leading cause of tires slipping on a rim.

Spin your yarn any way you wish, you know nothing about me or my background.

Now you can return to your safe zone where your feelings won't get dented.