BX2660 won't start, probably electrical?

[mrmikey]

She's been on a battery tender for several days and battery voltage is reading 12.7.

A fully charged battery should read 13.8V ± especially right after being removed form tender/charger.

.......the moment I hit the "on" part, I head a click and now there is no battery voltage anywhere.

Which would indicate a bad ground/connection somewhere or a pooched battery, probably the battery as per the previous info.

Battery checked alone and with jump starter, but still no voltage to lights or anywhere.

In order for a battery to be checked it has to be load tested not just the voltage checked. Use this as an example. Put 9-1.5V AA cells together in a series and read the voltage with a multimeter you'd get 13.5V. Would that turn over an engine? Nope, you don't have the amperage.

 

[alexpops]

If you are POSITIVE that the tractor is in neutral/won't run you over/suck you into an implement, you could try by-passing the cables on the tractor & hook up a heavy jumper cable from battery hot to the hot lug on the starter and battery negative to the starter housing or bell housing. Then using a smaller wire or screwdriver jump from that hot to the terminal on the solenoid that normally attaches to the key switch ... if it cranks, its cables or main fuse & starter is good, if it doesn't, it's battery or starter. Load test the battery to make sure that the voltage holds with a heavy amp draw. if that tests good, pull the starter & bench test (same Jumper cable set-up as described above) using a known good battery.

 

[alexpops]

My LS did something similar a few months ago. Was running fine, except for jerky hydraulics on grapple. Stopped to check hydraulic fluid level, then it wouldn't start, battery tested fine & load tested fine, but only had 5V at fuse panel. Recleaned ground, still 5v at fuse panel & key switch. Long story short ... made new Hot & ground from 2/0 Welding cable, closed lugs, and heat shrink. Replaced battery post clamps with milspec & replaced the original 100 amp plug in main fuse with a new ANL set-up. All problems disappeared.

 

[Skypuppy]

It started fine the three times I tried it after the filters were replaced. I will look for that extra fuse when the heat dies down. It is SO hot and humid here. Temps with humidity factor is 105-108F here ( Huntsville, AL.)

 

[Skypuppy]

Follow-up: When I went to get a new battery today, the shop tested my battery. The guy looked at me and, not saying a word, picked up one of his handy tools and removed the corrosion from both posts. Did a load test and the battery is fine. Thanks, all, for your help.

 

[Skypuppy]

Follow up #2: I reamed the battery posts on the starter and ?? cables and they were all shiny However, I still am getting sluggish starter motion even when jumping it with the truck or with the 200 amp charger/jump start unit. Makes me think another end of the battery cables are also corroded. However, I can't see where either of them connect. Any pictures? Hints? Someone stop by and show me?

 

[RjCorazza]

I would go with what @alexpops suggests with testing to rule out the high current cables or connections.

 

[fcoats]

I had a similar problem with a CK20. I found a broken wire inside a cover. The wire is very small and connects to the engine. It wouldn’t crack and had no dash lights. Good luck on finding the problem.

 

[ernieatv]

Subsequent to all the hassles of changing the fuel filters, now trying to get her to start. She's been on a battery tender for several days and battery voltage is reading 12.7. However, when I turned the key just to the on position, that worked fine for 3 times, then when I went to actually crank it, the moment I hit the "on" part, I head a click and now there is no battery voltage anywhere. Checked all the fuses in that block by the battery (10-20 amps per fuse), all the fuses were fine according to the multimeter. Checked the levers and everything was in safety mode (I HATE the nanny switches on this beast!.)
I'm as a loss as to what to check now, and I'm not sure how to check the ignition switch itself. Is there a (safe?) way to bypass the main ignition switch and still be able to start and run her?
Thanks.

Unhook your battery completely and hook up booster cable from a different battery, like your truck but don't start it. If it's a dead cell on your tractor battery you'll know right away. It happened to me 5 years ago. Good luck

 

[alexpops]

If you're cranking, but slow (post 16), it's either the cables or starter. Cables can corrode inside the insulation & set up too much resistance to let the amps flow. Bypass the battery cables (all my previous safety caveats) with a set of jumper cables to test the cables, pull the starter & bench test it to check the starter. You already ruled out the battery by having it load tested at the parts store. Given you had corrosion on the battery posts and other areas from the sound of it, invest in some dielectric grease or vaseline & coat all your connections after they are clean & sound. Posts need to be TIGHT ... any ability to move them & they are NOT tight. As I remember, my ZD331 had pretty crappy cables & post connections from Kubota. I re-cabled that rig too. Good luck on the fix.