Loader BXing stumps!

   / BXing stumps! #41  
DJI_0013.jpg

yes, I may end up hiring someone like I did to have them bulldoze me a road down the hill a ways. But before I do, I need to do more clearing to find all the stumps! The tough thing about the Grapple is need to add an extra valve up front to use it and that adds to the expense!
 
   / BXing stumps! #42  
Finished for the day... actually into the night and LED lights. Having too much fun! Big 'ole burn pile going too. <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/kubota-owning-operating/444295-bxing-stumps-img_6484-jpg"/> <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/kubota-owning-operating/444296-bxing-stumps-img_6485-jpg"/> What is my BX looking at? Tomorrow's task to pull out another herkin' stump! Beautiful sunsets the last couple of days. Here is a shot of last night. Today finally clouded over and it felt like rain but nope... just good burning weather. On fire watch again this evening... and lovin' it! :D <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/kubota-owning-operating/444299-bxing-stumps-img_6486-jpg"/> <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/kubota-owning-operating/444298-bxing-stumps-img_6478-jpg"/>

Wow - nice view DE!
 
   / BXing stumps! #43  
Hey Russell... sounds like you are addicted. Sorry 'bout that but I didn't start it. :laughing: 275hrs later I am wishing I had a grapple and quick attach for the brush and debris removal. I am on the home stretch of clearing and burning the debris as well as harvesting firewood and I have done it with mainly using the FEL and a chain and hooks on the bucket. The grapple would have been a much better tool. Now I don't think I can justify it. Stumps are a challenge and demand creativity. I have been learning how to wrestle with these things. All shapes, sizes, and weights. Depending on the number and size of stumps you have, you may want to hire an experienced operator with a large excavator to come in for a day. Then you can deal with the mess at your leisure and 'scape your property the way you want things.

I agree. One or two stumps, OK, but if you have a lot, bring in a big, honkin' hoe and it will remove each stump in seconds!
 
   / BXing stumps! #44  
Russ, what size roots are you not able to cut through with the ripper? How far from the stump are you cutting? I'm asking because I was interested in the BXpanded serrated ripper. Thanks,
 
   / BXing stumps! #45  
Russ, what size roots are you not able to cut through with the ripper? How far from the stump are you cutting? I'm asking because I was interested in the BXpanded serrated ripper. Thanks,

The main reason I had bought it was to aid me in clearing roots as I dug a 500 ft trench to run power/low voltage conduits to my gate. I would estimate I was dealing with roots in the 1-2" range.
 
   / BXing stumps! #47  
Forks make life so much easier for moving stumps like this. I built a set of forks out of 2x4s when I had a BX. They might look a bit flimsy but I loaded these over and over with heavy oak logs and they never failed. I ran pieces of plywood over the holes where I bolted thru the sides of the bucket (same holes the toothbar used) and fitted the ends of the forks snug against the back of the bucket. Cost was zero dollars. I eventually ended up buying a set of chain-on forks off eBay for $135 and am still using them on the B3000. Invaluable.

DE, you have an awesome looking spot there. Nice work!
 

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   / BXing stumps!
  • Thread Starter
#48  
Forks make life so much easier for moving stumps like this. I built a set of forks out of 2x4s when I had a BX. They might look a bit flimsy but I loaded these over and over with heavy oak logs and they never failed. I ran pieces of plywood over the holes where I bolted thru the sides of the bucket (same holes the toothbar used) and fitted the ends of the forks snug against the back of the bucket. Cost was zero dollars. I eventually ended up buying a set of chain-on forks off eBay for $135 and am still using them on the B3000. Invaluable.

DE, you have an awesome looking spot there. Nice work!
Thanks, Radair... I like your homemade forks, might have to do something like that as temporary until I get some 'real' ones. Beauty is you can burn them when you are done or even if not they are still biodegradable... ha, ha! :laughing:
 
   / BXing stumps! #49  
Yep. 2in on the rear and 1.25's in the fronts. Another great addition.

Dragon, I was looking at the bro-tek wheel spacers. My property slopes every which way and I would sure like a little more stability in my life. You put 2" spacers on your BX. Is there a reason you did not go with the 3"?
 
   / BXing stumps! #50  
Probably MMM,

From Bro-Tek


Please note that some rear spacers may interfere with the mid mount mower (MMM). Here are some guidelines:

• The 1.25 in spacers will work with all known 54" and 60" mowers
» BX Models with RCK54-23BX (54" Deck) must use 1.25" spacers
• 1.5 inch spacers will work with most 54" and all 60" mowers
» BX Models with RCK54P-23BX (54" Deck) can use 1.5" spacers
• 2 inch spacers only work with the 60" deck
• 3 inch spacers will not work with most MMM decks
• All spacers for the Kubota BX series will work with the 48" deck
3 inch spacers are the most stable option giving the widest wheelbase, but will not work with mower decks. Prices are for a set of two spacers which will fit either the front or rear as labeled. All required hardware is included.
 
   / BXing stumps! #51  
Probably MMM,

From Bro-Tek


Please note that some rear spacers may interfere with the mid mount mower (MMM). Here are some guidelines:

• The 1.25 in spacers will work with all known 54" and 60" mowers
» BX Models with RCK54-23BX (54" Deck) must use 1.25" spacers
• 1.5 inch spacers will work with most 54" and all 60" mowers
» BX Models with RCK54P-23BX (54" Deck) can use 1.5" spacers
• 2 inch spacers only work with the 60" deck
• 3 inch spacers will not work with most MMM decks
• All spacers for the Kubota BX series will work with the 48" deck
3 inch spacers are the most stable option giving the widest wheelbase, but will not work with mower decks. Prices are for a set of two spacers which will fit either the front or rear as labeled. All required hardware is included.

Thanks Slim, I did read that on the Bro-Tek site. I just wanted to make sure that a mower was the reason dragon used the 2" and not something I had not thought of or considered. I don't use the BX for mowing so I think the 3" would be what I would want - just thought it would be wise to verify before clicking the "buy" button!
 
   / BXing stumps!
  • Thread Starter
#52  
Thanks Slim, I did read that on the Bro-Tek site. I just wanted to make sure that a mower was the reason dragon used the 2" and not something I had not thought of or considered. I don't use the BX for mowing so I think the 3" would be what I would want - just thought it would be wise to verify before clicking the "buy" button!
Rusty, I don't have a MMM. I also don't recall but I don't think the 3in rears were offered when I bought. Otherwise probably would have assuming research proved the smart play.
 
   / BXing stumps! #53  
Rusty, I don't have a MMM. I also don't recall but I don't think the 3in rears were offered when I bought. Otherwise probably would have assuming research proved the smart play.

Mark,

I am contemplating some of the Bro-Tek stuff. I make a lot of my own stuff but that takes time from the seat (now at 1200 hrs). Did you get both skid plates? I have procrastinated on the wheel spacers as my mechanic foreman at Jennings told me they have more rear bearing problems on tractors with spacers than those w/o. He did say if he had a BX he would probably do it. Easy to say when you have all the resources to fix it. Of course this is not a scientific analysis. I think I know a thing or two (HA HA), so I would think the spacers do move the center of force further out from the supporting bearings. Just a bearing replacement is a min $500 job in the dealer shop. I have never turned mine over but have been close and puckering. The BH really works as a movable counterbalance and I always have the FEL down low.

My wish list would be the spacers, the under armor, and the thumb. The ripper tooth does not intrigue me as my 8" bucket chews up roots pretty good. Even the 12 does a credible job when the size hole needed dictates the bigger bucket. Your thoughts?

Ron
 
   / BXing stumps! #54  
Mark,

I am contemplating some of the Bro-Tek stuff. I make a lot of my own stuff but that takes time from the seat (now at 1200 hrs). Did you get both skid plates? I have procrastinated on the wheel spacers as my mechanic foreman at Jennings told me they have more rear bearing problems on tractors with spacers than those w/o. He did say if he had a BX he would probably do it. Easy to say when you have all the resources to fix it. Of course this is not a scientific analysis. I think I know a thing or two (HA HA), so I would think the spacers do move the center of force further out from the supporting bearings. Just a bearing replacement is a min $500 job in the dealer shop. I have never turned mine over but have been close and puckering. The BH really works as a movable counterbalance and I always have the FEL down low.

My wish list would be the spacers, the under armor, and the thumb. The ripper tooth does not intrigue me as my 8" bucket chews up roots pretty good. Even the 12 does a credible job when the size hole needed dictates the bigger bucket. Your thoughts?

Ron

I have the 2" spacers and love them. Has given me a lot more confidence on my hills then prior. I often have wondered why Kubota did not make the tractor wider.. trade-offs I guess. But it could also be it creates the stress that you mention above. The bearings and the tractor is a lot more usable with them and its a small price to pay if it saves me from a flip.

I did not go with the 3" because I felt like adding 6" of stance just seemed like too much for the tractor, so chose the 2"
 
   / BXing stumps!
  • Thread Starter
#55  
Mark,

I am contemplating some of the Bro-Tek stuff. I make a lot of my own stuff but that takes time from the seat (now at 1200 hrs). Did you get both skid plates? I have procrastinated on the wheel spacers as my mechanic foreman at Jennings told me they have more rear bearing problems on tractors with spacers than those w/o. He did say if he had a BX he would probably do it. Easy to say when you have all the resources to fix it. Of course this is not a scientific analysis. I think I know a thing or two (HA HA), so I would think the spacers do move the center of force further out from the supporting bearings. Just a bearing replacement is a min $500 job in the dealer shop. I have never turned mine over but have been close and puckering. The BH really works as a movable counterbalance and I always have the FEL down low.

My wish list would be the spacers, the under armor, and the thumb. The ripper tooth does not intrigue me as my 8" bucket chews up roots pretty good. Even the 12 does a credible job when the size hole needed dictates the bigger bucket. Your thoughts?

Ron
Hi Ron, yes I got both front and rear skid plates. Seeing what you are doing I would definitely get both. You could fab something up but I wanted something tried and proven. I am surprised you haven't taken out your HST fan already if you don't have any protection underneath! :shocked:

I do not have a MMM so there wasn't really a limitation for spacer sizes although I did kind of want to leave my options open at the time. Since then I bought a Zero turn instead so I won't ever be mowing with my BX. I settled on the 2in for the rears because I think that was biggest offered at the time. I went with the 1.25in on the fronts because I was worried about over stressing the front axles and steering linkage. I wasn't as concerned on the rears but my 'gut' feel is the rear axle could easily take the extra stress but the fronts might be another story. Who know's... maybe I am very close to an expensive bearing replacement. I am under warranty so I could easily remove the spacers and take it in if a problem arises. Lord knows I have worked my BX hard... lot's of FEL work in 4WD!

On the BH bucket, I have the 12in and the factory mechanical thumb. I have used the BH a fair amount mainly for trenching and several big stumps. Yes it is a great counterbalance too. I usually have it on. The thumb though hasn't got as much action as I could have given it. I guess I am little lazy and try to not mess with it. Would be nice to have a hydraulic thumb! :D But that is probably just a luxury for the amount I would use it. I do want a smaller bucket/trencher (not a ripper) as I have a bunch of water and power lines (several hundred feet) I want to trench and don't want digging 12in wide plus ditches all over.
 
   / BXing stumps! #56  
Hi Ron, yes I got both front and rear skid plates. Seeing what you are doing I would definitely get both. You could fab something up but I wanted something tried and proven. I am surprised you haven't taken out your HST fan already if you don't have any protection underneath! :shocked:

On the BH bucket, I have the 12in and the factory mechanical thumb. I have used the BH a fair amount mainly for trenching and several big stumps. Yes it is a great counterbalance too. I usually have it on. The thumb though hasn't got as much action as I could have given it. I guess I am little lazy and try to not mess with it. Would be nice to have a hydraulic thumb! :D But that is probably just a luxury for the amount I would use it. I do want a smaller bucket/trencher (not a ripper) as I have a bunch of water and power lines (several hundred feet) I want to trench and don't want digging 12in wide plus ditches all over.

Mark,

The 8" wide bucket is the narrowest available unless someone has an after market one. Much less than 8 though I think clogging would be a problem except in sand. Sand is what I have most below up to 12" of humus laden top soil which gets sticky. You can borrow my 8 incher as I will not need it for awhile. I did destroy the fan once. When I had it in the shop for that KTAC covered claim they replaced it as part of it. Jennings convinced KTAC that I overheated the HST with the fan out and it made it sluggish (???) so that work is what zoomed the claim to $8K. I am looking for where a temp guage could be installed. I did not argue with them about it as the cost to me was still $250. When it came back I saw no difference. The Skid plates or on the to do list. The Bro-Tek Thumb looks like it would be easy to add a cylinder in place of that top link. I would probably add a joy stick with a switch for the solenoid controlled by the swing cylinder side of the JS. Probably useful to have the boom cylinder active when working the thumb.

Ron
 
   / BXing stumps!
  • Thread Starter
#57  
Mark,

The 8" wide bucket is the narrowest available unless someone has an after market one. Much less than 8 though I think clogging would be a problem except in sand. Sand is what I have most below up to 12" of humus laden top soil which gets sticky. You can borrow my 8 incher as I will not need it for awhile. I did destroy the fan once. When I had it in the shop for that KTAC covered claim they replaced it as part of it. Jennings convinced KTAC that I overheated the HST with the fan out and it made it sluggish (???) so that work is what zoomed the claim to $8K. I am looking for where a temp guage could be installed. I did not argue with them about it as the cost to me was still $250. When it came back I saw no difference. The Skid plates or on the to do list. The Bro-Tek Thumb looks like it would be easy to add a cylinder in place of that top link. I would probably add a joy stick with a switch for the solenoid controlled by the swing cylinder side of the JS. Probably useful to have the boom cylinder active when working the thumb.

Ron
I would love to take you up on your offer to borrow the 8in bucket. But it might be spring now before I get on that project. We could swap buckets so you are not dead in the water if you need your BH (and you have collateral! :D). I'm not sure I want to create a bunch of canals during the rainy season!

I think if you have hydraulics on the thumb you would use it far more. The mechanical works but if you have repetitive work needing the thumb, you will get tired of pulling and adjusting the pin.
 

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