Cable or Chain??

RedRocker · May 6, 2004

Like it's been said already, cables have a lot of kinetic energy stored under a load and can kill you. I use a strap when Jeepin, if we need a winch we'll throw a tarp or blanket over the cable to dampen the recoil if it snaps.

Typhoon · May 6, 2004

As for the recovery strap, I don't recommend that either unless you are doing light work. I actually tried them before I went to chain, and I broke 3 of them in 2 weeks. Cost me quite a bit of money. They were the big ones too, but when you run one over a stump or something sharp at all, it eats them up quick. They are very strong but vulnerable to being cut or worn out quick.
Just my opinion. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
-Brad

Slamfire · May 7, 2004

I prefer chain, I've two 20' lengths with chain hooks on the ends. While you can't get the exact hook up like a choker cable they do get tight enough to drag a log. Most of all I like the fact that I can throw two of them in a 20mm ammo can attached to the front bumper. Try puttin a couple of cables in that can. The worst thing about them is they are well camoflauged after a couple of years use. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Laminarman · May 7, 2004

I use the bright orange chain, and while I konw the coating will come off in time, they have saved me more than once from searching the diry forest floor for a chain that blends in.

Ole_Hickory · May 7, 2004

I have stretched log chains before on stumps/dirtballs.I had 2 4wd drive tractors and a 4wd truck hooked up and slowly moving the stump downhill on a black top surface and stretched the chain. The weight of the dirtball/stump was very deceiving.

dummy · May 7, 2004

I add a slip hook on one end of my chain just for that purpose. Leave the grab hook on the end and place the slip wherever. IMO makes the chain more useful for odd shaped items.

JimR · May 7, 2004

I have no preferrence to either. I almost lost the back of my head in 1973 when I was clearing my land for my house. I was pulling a 3' diameter log that was 12' long with my 1960 Ford F250 woods truck using a chain. The link where the hook was attached failed near the log end. The chain came thru the back window of the truck. I saw it coming and was able to duck in time. The chain landed on the dashboard and my back. I have never had the 3/8 or 5/16 cables that I use break. Should you use cables. The main thing is to check it for frays and use the best clamps you can find for the ends so that the cable cannot come undone.

GerardC · May 7, 2004

What is the most common size; (i.e. 5/16, 3/8 etc.), chain that is used for overall use /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif? What about cable /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif? Thanks. G

SPIKER · May 7, 2004

well I have used both and have both, chain and cable, the straps are nice too IF you can keep them clean but they store just as much energy as the others but have farr less mass when they come at you.

I have a40+ foot lenght of 3/8" cable that is probably 50+ years old. galvanixeds aircraft grade stuff with slip hook on one end and grab hook on the other, in the middle is a couple short lenghts of garden hose! the hose does a few things protects towed item or the operator if the cable breaks, it is held in place with some electrical tape. it also protects the hands form wear if there was to be a frey.. I personally watch what I do as much as possable though.

I also have 4 or 5 chains of varrious lenghts and sizes, form a 5' 1/4" to a 40' 3/8" several 14' x 3/8" too. I CHAIN things to drag them any distance, but to pull out a log from the creek or down I use the cable as it is much lighter. belive me lugging the 40' by 3/8" is not something I like to do! but I do use it if I htink I'm going to apply over 2000 lbs of pressure on something... (drug up a 20' long water soaked log that was 24" ave size using the 40 chain and a 14' one which barely got around the log from over the top of the hill. hooked to the back of my box blade. had to run in LL3 to pull that one with my 4K lb tractor...) the bank was hard and dry with gravel so it wouldn't dig in Something like that I would not even think of using a cable for even with the hose and blankets coviering it...!

Mark M /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

BigEddy · May 7, 2004

Here's a great link to chain grades.

Note that "Working Limits" for straps are typically 1/3 of breaking, chain 50% of breaking strength.

Chain Grades

BigEddy · May 7, 2004

Forgot to mention - don't take those numbers as the chain breaking strength - those numbers are the breaking strength of 2!!! chains of that size. i.e. they are 2x the breaking strength of the chain. Ontario law states that you must have 2 chains each with a breaking strength equal to the weight of the trailer, so this is the ministries peculiar way of showing it.
In case I mislead anyone, working limits are below in lbs
Grade....... 30............ 43.............70
3/16......... 800
1/4........... 1300.........2600.........3150
5/16......... 1900.........3900.........4700
3/8........... 2650.........5400.........6600

puter · May 8, 2004

Not all chains/cables are the same... winching cables are certainly strong enough for your application. You may want to check places like this to make sure whatever you get is appropriate. If you think the forces you'll be applying to a cable might be excessive, throw a heavy tarp over the midpoint (or bind it with rope/velcro). HTH,

- Mark

Lou_B · May 8, 2004

Chain seems to work best the uses us tractor folk will put it to. A length of chain with a grab hook on each end has endless uses.
Chain holds up well when used for dragging stuff around. Cable will fray and develop "hooks" after a while.

Cable is best when you are doing lifting or in applications where it needs to be spooled onto a drum or run through a sheave. Winches, cranes and rigging equipment use cable exclusively.

I had to try them both. My 3/8" cable got used once and put into the shed two years ago. 5/16" and 3/8" chain seem to get used all the time.

Lou Braun

GerardC · May 8, 2004

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Winches, cranes and rigging equipment use cable exclusively .)</font>

Not true. Larger boats and ships use chain for their ankers. They are operated by what? G

Steve_Miller · May 8, 2004

Every one has there own opinion, so just use what you are comfortable with but do some research and size your chain or cable accordingly and you shouldn't have any worries. It is always a good idea to inspect your chains, cables, clevis, etc... and you find something that is going to be a weak spot. Breakage is usually due to fatigue, misuse or undersized for the job.

Steve

Richard · May 9, 2004

I've got a fairly tough chain (gr-100). One thing I'd never thought of, nor seen commented on here was abrasion on a CHAIN. (only seen it mentioned on straps & fraying of cables)

I was dragging an entire tree down the road a bit (asphalt) and then took the tree to my "to be cut" pile.

upshot, the weight of the tree was grinding the underside link into the asphalt. Today, about 4' from the end, I have a single link that is about 1/3 worn through with a flat spot on it. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif

I didn't notice this until AFTER I was done with the movement of tree. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

SPIKER · May 9, 2004

richard: yes dragging of chain is the # 1 cause of failure as any real scratch or wear reduces it's ability by a lot and creats stress fractures form any scratch/gouge in it...

back in military it was a right up if you drug the chain on the ground!!! that was for our lifting chain which had to be inspected with magnetic NDI every 6 mo or after every heavy lift!

Mark M /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

StoneHeartFarm · May 23, 2004

If you like the ease of the choker, but still want chain, couldn't you buy a short piece of cable, say 3', and make up a choker that could be attached to the end of the chain?

Steve

fire72 · May 23, 2004

Here's my $.02 from my own logging/towing/rescue experience:

Chain, cable, and straps all have their place. I attended a training session for firefighters put on by our state operating engineers (heavy equipment operators) union training center, the basis of which was giving us an understanding of working with rigging and cranes on structural collapse rescues. The instructor spent a great deal of time covering choosing the correct rigging for the lift at hand, and emphasized that there are often multiple ways to rig a load safely.

With that said, my personal preference is for chain and straps. For most of my lifting, towing, and logging, I use 20' 5/16" grade 70 chains with grab hooks on both ends. With my truck or tractor I'll lose traction long before I even approach breaking strength, and my loader, rated for 1000#, won't get anywhere close to the 4700# rated strength of the chain.

Straps are especially handy for vehicle recovery. They are light, store easily, and are a lot less likely to ding up the vehicle you're working with. The slight amount of stretch in many straps helps absorb the shock load if you take out the slack too quickly or have to "bump" a stuck vehicle to get it moving. The slack does have a downside, as I discovered years ago while pulling small shrubbery stumps on a landscaping job. The taproot on one stump came loose all at once, and strap slingshot the stump and rootball off the back window of the truck. Straps are also particularly vulnerable to abrasion. In the event of breakage, straps are a lot lighter and softer than either of the other options, and less likely to cause damage or injury.

For whatever it's worth...