Calculating gpm

   / Calculating gpm #31  
OK, Rat, you're talkin' plumb outa my league when you talk about miners inches (which I never heard of) and 120 psi in a canal (how'd they do that?). And I'm old enough to remember party lines if you're talkin' 'bout telephones./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

Bird
 
   / Calculating gpm
  • Thread Starter
#32  
Al, that was 11:18 Oklahoma time. Dark got here about 7:20. 6:20 next week (boo) I got absorbed with this water problem.

OKAY! Gotcha on the 2.31ft. You just derived the number. I looked it up in a chart and multiplied the inverse of that, .4329 to get the psi number.

Thank you sir!

Safe to say I can get 100gpm at about 45-50 psi?
 
   / Calculating gpm
  • Thread Starter
#33  
One more thought. What schedule pipe to use. Already talked with the water co., they don't care what schedule and don't even want to inspect the installation after the meter.

At 100 gpm, I figure a surge pressure of about 88 psi. Combined with the the line pressure of say 70 psi, comes to roughly 160 psi.

What schedule of pipe to use? Sch 40 has a 260 psi working press., SDR21 has a working pressure of 200 psi and SDR 26 has a working pressure of 160 psi. I think burst is three times working pressure.

I think SDR 21 @ 200 psi would be the choice. Would have a about a 40 psi fudge factor.
 
   / Calculating gpm #34  
Bird, water is brought from the Sierras via canals. At some point they enter into a piping system. This is where they begin to "capture" the pressure. They keep these canals up on the ridges of the mountains and hills. The beauty is that if they started containing the pressure to early or high up, pressure problems would be enormous. Where I am, I have about 120 PSI so the water is being piped at about 230' above me. I'm at about 900' elevation. The only down side to irrigating this way is that we all need to use filters. At various times of the year, we may need to blow out our filters every other day. It also restricts irrigating to impact or Rainbird type sprinklers since they can easily pass the small debris that gets through the filter(s) Rat...
 
   / Calculating gpm #35  
I wouldn't go less than Sch. 40.

waver.gif
<font color=green>stan</font color=green>
 
   / Calculating gpm
  • Thread Starter
#36  
Why?

I agree it is probably the most common schedule installed, but it costs more too. I will do sch 40 if necessary, just don't see the need yet. I don't think the compression force of the the ground or vehicles driving over it is going to crush even the 160psi pipe when it is buried 2'.

Meeting Code issues? Haven't looked at that yet

Would you lay it in a layer of sand or the native clay soil? I would like to use the O-ring pipe to avoid adding expansion joints.
 
   / Calculating gpm #37  
Chillimau-
I don't like the lighter stuff because it's more susceptible to physical damage and water hammer. I would put it sand to protect it from sharp rocks. I'm not familiar with the O-ring pipe you mentioned, but I've never layed a line as long as you're talking about, either. It would be best to see what your local code requires.

waver.gif
<font color=green>stan</font color=green>
 
   / Calculating gpm #38  
First of all finding, 2" with o rings will be next to impossible. 2. What expansion, your worried about nothing. 2' in the ground, worry aout a truck driving over it? All this is for not, if you like the lighter stuff fine, use it and get greater flow because of the larger interior diameter. It will take the PSI. The hammer you speak of results in a quick acting valve, use gates instead of ball valves. Expansion, unless you have exceptionally variable water temps, don't worry. If you are concerned, don't trench perfectly straight and add some jogs. Sch 40 is nice because it will resist physical abuse both while in transit to you, while you stick it in the ground and from some rocks. Water/air hammer can disinigrate even SCH 80 pipe. When you glue it (forget about the o ring idea) prime it and use grey glue, its is the heavy bodied stuff that won't dry as fast but is the best for any voids. It is the only glue that you can use on 8" and up pipe. The primer etches the top few hundreths of an inch of PVC making it soft and getting the best cohesion/fusion between the mating surfaces. Now, go trench, glue as much of the pipe above ground, let it dry, throw it in the trench, cover it up.

P.S. Put a tee in every now and then, its easier now then later, Rat...
 
   / Calculating gpm #39  
Rat, when he said using the o-rings, I assumed (maybe wrongfully so) that he was talking about the same kind of pipe that's usually used by the water companies around here. One end is flared much like other PVC, but has a rubber seal in it. You lubricate the small end of the next section and simply slide it into the flared one; no glue or solvent used. In this clay, the soil contraction and expansion with the dry and wet cycles causes lots of leaks, but using that type pipe virtually eliminates them because every joint is an expansion joint. And apparently it isn't hard to find. The only ones I've actually watched being installed was a 8" main for approximately 12 miles, and a 2" main less than a half mile long for a small development. Definitely looks to me like the best way to go.

Bird
 
   / Calculating gpm
  • Thread Starter
#40  
Rat, I agree, I'm probably over thinking this, but problems are easy to fix right now. Good idea about the tee's.

As far as valves, I don't think I have ever seen a gate valve down in the dirt with the meter, always a ball valve. (not that I've seen many installations)

Bird, You got it. I like the o-ring pipe for the reasons you mention. Our clay can get 1" wide cracks during the summer. And I can get o-ring from 2" and up.
 

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