Call me Mr. Lucky

[Eddie]

I would adjust the top link to where the cutter operated level, then make a chain with loops on each end a little longer than the top link. This lets the rear of the cutter follow the contour of the ground without binding against the top link and tractor. Then if you want it to cut higher or lower you can always raise or lower your lift.

 

[EddieWalker]

gcp,

I'm gonna disagree with the chain idea. I also disagree with the need for flexibitlity on a 2 point hitch type mower. If you want the mower to follow the contour of the ground, then you have to use a "Pull" type mower. It will either have wheels at all four corners, and/or attach it to your draw bar. It's pulled like a trailer, not a 3point hitch.

The scalping is because you didn't lift and adjust the cutter as you mowed. This is operator error and has nothing to do with adding chains.

I'm not sure where the chain idea came from, but have a pretty good guess it's from older tractors with very minimal strength in there lift arms. Older tractors just didn't have very good hydraulics. Especialy in the smaller models.

Chains will only help support your lift arms and take off some of the weight. There is nothing else that they will do. If your arms are droping from the weight of the mower, then adding chains will stop that.

They will accomplish nothing towards scalping. You will still have to adjust the mower as you operate it.

Congratulations on a great deal!!!

Eddie

 

[normde2001]

gcp,

I'm gonna disagree with the chain idea. I also disagree with the need for flexibitlity on a 2 point hitch type mower. If you want the mower to follow the contour of the ground, then you have to use a "Pull" type mower. It will either have wheels at all four corners, and/or attach it to your draw bar. It's pulled like a trailer, not a 3point hitch.

The scalping is because you didn't lift and adjust the cutter as you mowed. This is operator error and has nothing to do with adding chains.

I'm not sure where the chain idea came from, but have a pretty good guess it's from older tractors with very minimal strength in there lift arms. Older tractors just didn't have very good hydraulics. Especialy in the smaller models.

Chains will only help support your lift arms and take off some of the weight. There is nothing else that they will do. If your arms are droping from the weight of the mower, then adding chains will stop that.

They will accomplish nothing towards scalping. You will still have to adjust the mower as you operate it.

Congratulations on a great deal!!!

Eddie

Disagree all you like; however we are discussing a 3 point hitch, not a 2 point, and you are talking about a totally different chain usage.

 

[EddieWalker]

It's hard to tell if that's a flexible drive shaft or not, but the top link bracket is not. That's the reason for the bent brace and probably the gouges in your hillside. That is caused by the cutter being rigid and not following the contours of the ground. Guys sometimes use a chain instead of a toplink on machines like that to allow that flexibility.

Norm,

Thank you for clarifying my misunderstanding. If you would be so kind, I'm curious about your "flexible drive shaft" and what type of "top link bracket" your talking about.

Obviously I've never heard of, or seen such a set up, and would greatly apreciate some pictures or links to how you turn a top link into a flexible unit that will allow a three point attachement to follow the contour of the land.

I had no idea such a thing existed and would love to have one. None of my google searches have come up with such a device. Obviously it would be a big seller, so I'm sure it's just my lack of knowleged that is stoping me from being able to find one.

I apologize for misunderstanding your post and I'm looking forward to learning how you attach chains to your tractor so it will allow the cutter to do follow the terain.

It's wonderful when somebody has a better way of doing something and is willing to share there experenience and knowledge to help the rest of us out.

Thank you,
Eddie

 

[normde2001]

I have no words to explain it further, other than what has already been said. No different than operating without a top link, with the ability to lift the rear off the ground for transport. There is no mechanism, just a length of chain.

 

[gcp]

As soon as I go back to the property I'll try to figure it out, and take pictures of what I come up with. Maybe then we can put a picture to the idea/words.

Normde, where does the chain attach on the tractor side, the top link bar loop? The other side would obviously attach to the bushhog's upper loop right?

Thanks guys!

 

[Eddie]

It attatches the same place your top link attatches.

 

[Eddie]

I apologize for misunderstanding your post and I'm looking forward to learning how you attach chains to your tractor so it will allow the cutter to do follow the terain.

Thank you,
Eddie

It's not chains. It's just one chain that replaces your top link. That lets your cutter wheels follow the contour of the ground. That's why later finish mowers and cutters have a link that your top link connects to that moves.

 

[oldhippy]

I just posted a picture on the build it page on bumper. I have a King Kutter finish mower on back of tractor. If you look close you can see the chain running from top link to back of mower. This allows the mower to float on ground and the chain is used when you pick the mower up off the ground to transport. The Mo conversation dept. puts chain on all of thier bush hogs as a saftey precaution. At least that's what my brother in law says. Thanks big dan

 

[VT_Hokie]

Your top link is definely too short. Looks like one for a rake or scraper blade. Never thought about it but the chain idea sounds like it would work. If you were to go with a longer top link, find a level place to sit your bushhog down. The rear wheels should support the rear of the cutter, then raise the arms to where the bushhog is level. Take the slack out of the top link (maybe the chain?), then you know where level is with your unit (make sure your left and right link are adjusted too so one side is not dipping). This helps in cutting flat areas with minimal adjustment. In your case (as with mine) there are various contours that need to be addressed. That means swing your head back and monitoring where the front of the hog is riding in relation to the ground at all times, the rear wheels take care of the back in. Just run it slow and steady...

VT