Camping: Any campers here?

[westcliffe01]

I have a HiLO trailer and the main benefit with them is reduced drag when towing. Thats important for long distance trips, but not so important for a trip that is just a few hours away. Once you get past the towing benefit it generally goes downhill. They are HEAVY. my 22ft model is over 5000lb with the tanks dry. They are mechanically complex. They have a hydraulic powerpack that is needed (with a good battery) to raise the roof, in addition to the hydraulic ram which is under the floor and then a series of cables from the ram to various points around the trailer so they can lift the roof.

There is a seal between the upper and lower section that degrades quite quickly and is expensive to replace. The interior layout is highly compromised by the fact that the roof is lowered. Anything that sits on the floor, can only go to counter height. Think closet, refrigerator etc. Anything at ceiling height cannot extend down more than 12" because that is all that is left above the counters when it is lowered. Storage in them is highly inefficient. You also have to do a rigorous inspection before lowering the roof, since if you leave a broom in a corner you might find it sticking up through the rubber roof after you lower it. If you leave objects in the sink, they may smash the light fixtures under the overhead cabinets. On the outside, if the water filler cap is not replaced and the door closed, it will simply get sheared off when the roof is lowered.

I have one and we use it, but it is not the ideal trailer. I just bought a used Scamp trailer and it weighs about 2000lb, is full height, has a single axle (easy to move in the driveway) and the fuel consumption towing it is about the same as the Hilo since the scamp is much more aerodynamic. The scamp is by no means perfect and there are some weak points (they rivet the overhead cabinets to the fiberglass shell instead of bonding them to it without any penetrations). The rivets are point loads of the kind not recommended for composite and so they tend to work loose, cause cracks and need repair. But the trailer holds up much better than any kind of stick built trailer with their associated leak and rot issues. Overall the number of seams on a Scamp is 2, one at the belly line where the upper and lower meet and the second where the shell meets the floor. Fewer seams = fewer problems.

 

[General Lee]

Well, I picked up a new 16' Coachmen. Decided I didn't want a pop up and we found the little gem for the same price as a well loaded pop up. Now I have 4 solid walls and bathroom with a door.

Its small, but I think it will suit us fine as we determine if we like the whole camping thing. Only negative thing is the windows leak. If it weren't for the weep holes in the slider track allowing water to exit it woulda been a mess. I gotta figure if its a bad design or poor sealant/gasket. When things dry out I'll add some caulk.

 

[Travelover]

........ Only negative thing is the windows leak. If it weren't for the weep holes in the slider track allowing water to exit it woulda been a mess. I gotta figure if its a bad design or poor sealant/gasket. When things dry out I'll add some caulk.

Before you get out the caulk gun find out where the windows are leaking. They don't really seal air tight, some water leaks past the edges and drains out those weep holes. So, it is vital to keep the weep holes cleaned out at all times. The other important thing is to buy some butyl tape. It comes in a roll with paper between the layers. They sell some similar stuff that is more like plumbers putty. That stuff is not nearly as good. Real butyl tape can be pulled into a hair fine strand when separated. Butyl putty is what the window frames should have been seated with initially. Amazon.com: Dicor (BT-1834-1) 1/8" x 3/4" x 30' Butyl Seal Tape: Automotive

Don't use silicone caulk. It comes unstuck eventually and once you use it, nothing will stick where it once was. Good luck.

 

[General Lee]

Before you get out the caulk gun find out where the windows are leaking. They don't really seal air tight, some water leaks past the edges and drains out those weep holes. So, it is vital to keep the weep holes cleaned out at all times. The other important thing is to buy some butyl tape. It comes in a roll with paper between the layers. They sell some similar stuff that is more like plumbers putty. That stuff is not nearly as good. Real butyl tape can be pulled into a hair fine strand when separated. Butyl putty is what the window frames should have been seated with initially. Amazon.com: Dicor (BT-1834-1) 1/8" x 3/4" x 30' Butyl Seal Tape: Automotive



Don't use silicone caulk. It comes unstuck eventually and once you use it, nothing will stick where it once was. Good luck.

Hey thanks for that info. Are you saying its "kinda" normal for water to get into the interior tracks? I realize these windows aren't top of the line quality, I'm just wondering whats acceptable or not. I thought the weep holes are for when condensation forms on the interior window and drips down into the track.

I tried looking where the water is coming in from, I could see where inside, but from the outside its hard to determine which gasket/seal is the issue.

Also quick question: Can this stuff be applied over existing sealant(s) or gaskets?

 

[Travelover]

Hey thanks for that info. Are you saying its "kinda" normal for water to get into the interior tracks? I realize these windows aren't top of the line quality, I'm just wondering whats acceptable or not. I thought the weep holes are for when condensation forms on the interior window and drips down into the track.

The windows seal by overlap kinda like a shingle. Any water that gets by the overlap falls into the channel at the bottom and drains out the weep hole

I tried looking where the water is coming in from, I could see where inside, but from the outside its hard to determine which gasket/seal is the issue.

Also quick question: Can this stuff be applied over existing sealant(s) or gaskets?

The butyl tape needs to be sandwiched in between two surfaces. If the window is leaking between the frame and the body of the trailer, it is not hard to take off the clamp ring inside and pop the window off and reseal it. Adding caulk on top of a seam seems like a good idea, but it is only a temporary fix, if that. (speaking from experience).

And don't let anyone kid you, RVs all leak. Fixing leaks is part of the ownership ritual.

 

[General Lee]

They don't appear to be leaking between the frame and body. I think water is getting passed the press on seals that go between the glass and frame. They seem to come up short in the bottom corners.

 

[General Lee]

So, I'm browsing through the camper's manual.......and in bold letters " When it rains, water may collect in the bottom frame of the window and exit through weep holes. If the camper is not level water may not be able to drain properly". I guess its normal.

 

[kenmac]

I,ve used a lot of stuff for camper leaks. This EternaBond is the best stuff I've used for leaks on my camper. Their caulk comes in different colors ,and is compatible with rubber roofs. If you have a camper . It's not when is it going to leak. It will be how many and how bad are the leaks. Mine sits out in the elements , wind rain, sun which, takes it's toll on the rubber roof, rubber around the windows doors, etc, I've used their tape on my roof around my A/C, and the seams, the caulk around windows and vent pipes. The caulk isn't easy to work with ,but it sticks very well.. Good luck with your camper and enjoy. I have a 24 ft.hybrid

 

[tman1020]

I've had many campers just about all of them leak at some point in time or another. If you can get it under some kind of carport at least protect the top that would be great if not you really have to stay on the maintenance. Also watch out for the mice their terrible keep a mouse trap in it when you're not using it and around the tires on the outside if you can and check it often

 

[kenmac]

I've had many campers just about all of them leak at some point in time or another. If you can get it under some kind of carport at least protect the top that would be great if not you really have to stay on the maintenance. Also watch out for the mice their terrible keep a mouse trap in it when you're not using it and around the tires on the outside if you can and check it often

I don't have a problem with mice. My problem is with ants. Not the biting type. Just small black ants. I call them piss ants