Can all tractors flip over easy?

[Bentrim]

As an old once young farm kid that was operating tractors too soon to realize the dangers of them.
The row crop tractors we had were all of the tricycle configuration. Simply because they were high enough to go over growing crops, and they used mounted equipment such as cultivators and corn pickers. Also note it was easier to turn at the end of the field because the axle did not stick out and hit a tree or the fence row. If you notice most row crop tractors built in the 30's, 40's, 50's and early 60's were built as tricycles. As you would think most of these were used for tillage and other work across the slope NOT up and down, reason it was determined that you had more erosion and loss of top soil when ground was worked up and down the slope.
Having been raised on a farm and operating tractors I was very aware of how to prepare and operate tractors across the slope.
The utility tractor most always had a wide front end AND like for example the 8N ford was a much lower tractor. They raked the hay and other utility work.
Most all work was done without any precaution as to wheel spacing etc. Even plowing on a steep slope with the lower wheel in the eight inch furrow was not a problem. But when needing to mow extremely steep slopes the wheels were made wide as possible. Note that most "modern" subcompact and compact tractors have very limited rear wheel width adjustment and are usually fairly narrow, even though they are low they are not very stable on hillsides.
In the early 60's de to the narrow rows and other needs wide front ends became more popular now you cannot find a new tricycle tractor. Also about this time manufacturers started being concerned with safety and started manufacturing roll bars. Even the old "tin" cabs got replaced with cabs that had integrated roll bars.
Most tractor accidents are caused by carelessness or operator error, such as going too fast, turning too short, loader too high, hitching too high, traveling to fast with the brakes uneven, not knowing the terrain you are working on, and I'm sure you can add more.
By the way Harry Ferguson was tired of hearing about farmers killed when the tractor rolled backwards, that is why he invented the three point hitch. When used correctly it is very hard to roll a tractor using a three point hitch.
Tractor safety is all about the "nut" behind the wheel. If you have any question how to do something safely read the operators manual and the safety brochure that accompanies it or visit an old farm equipment dealer. In the mean time remember to hitch up to only the drawbar, or three point hitch, travel slowly, know the ground you are operating on, and keep the loader bucket low. If you feel you need a roll bar search the web, there a companies that make them for just about any tractor.
Oh by the way there is no machine on wheels that can't be upset, Z turns, lawn tractors, garden tractors, If it has a foldable roll bar -- get it up, if it doesn't have one check out getting one if you want.
But no matter what THINK SAFETY.

 

[MossRoad]

That would be true if both axles were rigidly connected. But every wide-front tractor I've ever used has the front axle jointed so that on uneven ground it isn't constanly trying to twist the machine.

You think Penn State, Iowa, Wisconsin, Kentucky, Indiana, Nebraska, etc. studies are all incorrect?

How about this one?

http://libraryarchives.metro.net/DPGTL/cdc-centers-for-disease-control-and-prevention/1996-trac-safe-program-for-reducing-injuries-deaths-due-to-tractor-overturns-facilitators-manual.pdf

 

[JWR]

I thought about buying an older tractor like an 8N, but then I started reading about them flipping over. I'm sure you can use common sense be pretty safe, but I got to thinking that maybe all tractors could flip? Was looking for advice on safety. I was thinking I probably need a sub compact now because they look safer, but I could be fooling myself.

It for plowing new ground with stumps and roots, mostly the leftover roots.

Edit: I have no experience with tractors, if you couldn't tell.

I am not going to read the 61 posts so far on this thread.

I have no idea what "It for plowing new ground with stumps and roots, mostly the leftover roots." means. Did you explain in one of the 61 posts ?

• Restart by telling us what you plan/need to do with a tractor. The 4 or 5 main things.
• Do you need to operate on steep ground? If not, forget flipping.
• Unless you plan to do extreme heavy pulling of something using a towing point on the tractor way above the drawbar, rear flipping is so obscure and unlikely you can forget that.
• No tractor, new or used on the market today, is likely enough to flip over for you to be using that for a buying criteria.
• The 8N is far less likely to flip over than most new tractors on the market --- if that matters which it does not.

 

[newbury]

I think I might not need a tractor then. I've been looking at the BCS walk-behind, but tractors seemed like they could do any kind of plowing. I was wrong.

But that may kill this valuable thread of arguments!!
And it hasn't even hit 100 posts!
OP - If you can accomplish your work with a walk behind, go for it, My Grandfather "farmed" about a full acre of garden, 2 acres of orchard and a 20 acre woodlot with a '70's era Gravely. Including lots of snow plowing and blowing in Northern Vermont. And that was without a sulky. He did have a small trailer with a seat.

 

[JWR]

No they are not.

Oh yes they are. Once the front axle reaches the stop outboard of the pivot point (during a roll axis movement) the front wheel becomes an outrigger (FAR further out to the side than a tricycle front wheel.) Obviously tricycle tractors are more vulnerable to tipping over. The OP and his issues are not relevant to rolling tractors in the first place.

 

[nyone]

I wonder what happens with fluid filled tires in a rollover. It would seem that the momentum of the fluid might help flip a tractor over onto its top where it might have been just a roll on to its side.

No. Fluid is always at the bottom and the portion of the tire above the rim at the top dosnt have liquid in it so the weight below may actualy help rather than hurt.

 

[JWR]

No. Fluid is always at the bottom and the portion of the tire above the rim at the top dosnt have liquid in it so the weight below may actualy help rather than hurt.

Oh dear... Npalen was right. Depending on how suddenly the tractor rolls the fluid could become a factor. Initially the fluid helps to lower the CG. But once this becomes a dynamics problem roll rate, time, etc. become involved. The fluid certainly does not stay in the bottom of the tire once some amount of movement occurs and establishes the momentum npalen mentioned.. This becomes a complex dynamics problem with many variables. My opinion is that ,in the progress of a rollover, the fluid will never matter because by the time it MIGHT matter the catastrophe has already gone beyond the point of no return and the machine has upset.

 

[npalen]

No. Fluid is always at the bottom and the portion of the tire above the rim at the top dosnt have liquid in it so the weight below may actualy help rather than hurt.

Yes, the fluid is at the bottom but what happens when the tractor suddenly rolls on to its side? The weight of the fluid is suddenly thrown to the downhill side of the tire and its inertia would seemingly tend to roll the tractor over on its top.

Edit: Its a similar scenario as what happens when a tank full of liquid is being transported. Trying to slow or stop the vehicle slams the liquid to the front making it difficult to stop. Adding a baffle(s) to the the tank will minimize the effect.

 

[IndyJay]

Yes, the fluid is at the bottom but what happens when the tractor suddenly rolls on to its side? The weight of the fluid is suddenly thrown to the downhill side of the tire and its inertia would seemingly tend to roll the tractor over on its top.

Edit: Its a similar scenario as what happens when a tank full of liquid is being transported. Trying to slow or stop the vehicle slams the liquid to the front making it difficult to stop. Adding a baffle(s) to the the tank will minimize the effect.

Same principle as a dead blow hammer.

 

[JasperFrank]

I like the that old film about momentum. Kind of the key to do things safely. Go slow, and you lessen momentum, so you can correct it before it goes out of hand. It is my opinion, that on the Ford 1220s with the standard 7106 FEL put the center of gravity very high: Maybe too high. But that's just one make and model of CUT tractor. You will note that more modern tractors have their mounting points much lower on the frame to lower the CG.

Unless you can articulate the ride height, this will always be a problem and a compromise of ground clearance and working on hills.