Can an old lady get her MF1250 to start?

[hawkeye08]

Looking at the wiring diagram, it appears that the terminal labeled 50 on the switch is the one providing 12v to the starter solenoid... someone can probably read the schematics better than I to confirm that. If you could check the voltage on that terminal with the key in the start position, it seems it would tell you if the switch is providing start voltage to the starter solenoid. I'm going to study it some more, the next step might be (if the terminal 50 is 12V when key is in start, then the path from there to the starter solenoid is suspect, in which case you could rig something up..

I know you checked the fuses, but please confirm that you checked all (there are several fuses in starting circuit outside the fuse block it appears on the diagram)..


Edit: I just reread post above, agree with that..

 

[Old Gray Mare]

OK, here's my plan.

I am going to remove the dash, but only after I get all the "just in case" pieces needed for either fixing the current ignition switch or putting in a bypass one. I don't want to waste time taking off the dash/putting it back on if installing a remote is the answer. I found this switch online for $10 with free shipping. I like it and it says it is water and dust proof. Will it work? If so, I'll order it.

Amazon.com: Momentary Button Starter Switch w/Boot: Automotive

For an inline fuse and holder, is the tube style or blade style best? You said 20 amp, right? Question, how do I attach the fuse holder wires to the switch wires? In a house, I'd just use wire nuts, but sure those won't work in the tractor...lol.

I'll be busy the next couple of days getting chores done before the next monsoon storms hit and everything turns to mud. The tractor and the jumper wire to start it will be used. I WILL BE CAREFUL...I PROMISE!! :tractor:

I may just park it in the carport nearer the house to work on the ignition. Hate to put the truck outside, since it's also like new

Thanks again to all of you!

 

[jimpen]

One that I use to charge/jump batteries is something like these battery packs. For years I had a Ford car and would use it to jump a Chevy/Dodge. About a week later a solenoid would fry in my car. Relatively easy to change and didn't cost much, but it is a PITA to be stranded.

So I keep it in my care all winter. And then if I have a weak battery on a vehicle I haven't used in a while I will hook it up and have it plugged into the power t charge it and the battery.

 

[KubotainNH]

That switch looks perfect. Can handle 60amps and has nice screws to attach a lug to. Either fuse type is fine. I went with 20 amp so it would be high enough never to blow starting the tractor but still bring in a bit of safety. It should be close to the battery. I bet the draw is quite a bit lower than 20 amps but can't be sure at this point. This would be my suggestion for the order: wire soldered to lug to go to battery, next soldered to fuse holder, then fuse holder soldered to lug to connect to one side of switch, soldered lug to the other side then wired down to the starter with the appropriate spade type female connector. I like to solder as much as possible using heatshrink to cover the splice and any bare connectors. Someone mentioned connecting to an existing fuse but that will be tougher to do and the fuse may not be rated high enough and may blow often. With a fuse you can remove it if you want and the tractor will not start accidentally. Good for when doing an oil change or if kids are around.

I'd still like to see it fixed the proper way and I bet you have it in you to do it but this will get you by. Changing the ignition switch and safety relay may do the trick but obviously not guaranteed. At least the bypass switch is much safer than what you are doing now to start the tractor.

 

[Old Gray Mare]

That switch looks perfect. Can handle 60amps and has nice screws to attach a lug to. Either fuse type is fine. I went with 20 amp so it would be high enough never to blow starting the tractor but still bring in a bit of safety. It should be close to the battery. I bet the draw is quite a bit lower than 20 amps but can't be sure at this point. This would be my suggestion for the order: wire soldered to lug to go to battery, next soldered to fuse holder, then fuse holder soldered to lug to connect to one side of switch, soldered lug to the other side then wired down to the starter with the appropriate spade type female connector. I like to solder as much as possible using heatshrink to cover the splice and any bare connectors. Someone mentioned connecting to an existing fuse but that will be tougher to do and the fuse may not be rated high enough and may blow often. With a fuse you can remove it if you want and the tractor will not start accidentally. Good for when doing an oil change or if kids are around.

I'd still like to see it fixed the proper way and I bet you have it in you to do it but this will get you by. Changing the ignition switch and safety relay may do the trick but obviously not guaranteed. At least the bypass switch is much safer than what you are doing now to start the tractor.

I like the looks of the switch....clean and simple, like me

I am hoping to fix the starting problem the right way, but if it proves beyond my capabilities, I want to have "plan B" in my pocket and not have to wait around for UPS deliveries, etc. I buy online since the stores are so far away and diesel ain't cheap, nor is time (especially at my age LOL!).

I'm not sure what heat shrink is, but I'll do a search. I don't want to worry about a connection shorting out or coming lose. I'll likely get the spade type fuse since that's what the tractor uses and I have spares.

So, to install the fuse link, I use spade type connections that are soldered and protected? And you say lug, so I assume that is the donut style wire end? I will probably use 16 guage wire for all runs, so do I have to match that size with the inline fuse wire? I have some crimp-on ends...can they be soldered?

I sure do appreciate all the input you've given me! Like I said, if you were in Arizona, the coffee's on

P.S. no kids to worry about, just 3 horses and a really lazy chocolate Lab....

 

[gtrippleb]

I'm not sure what heat shrink is, but I'll do a search.

This is what heat shrink is. Heat-shrink tubing - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

While you're ordering your switch, you could order some heat shrink also.
Amazon.com: heat shrink

You will need some way to heat up the heat shrink tubing so that is shrinks to the form of the wires/wire connector that you are connecting. A lighter would work for heating the shrink tube.

 

[gtrippleb]

Looking at the wiring diagram, it looks like the 12 volt wire (highlighted in red) that connects to post 50 on the ignition switch, goes through a 4 wire connector to a safety relay and then to another 4 wire connector and then continues on to the starter motor.

 

[rsallen]

Just for giggles I went out and dug an old starter out of the salvage pile (finally found one that had a solenoid still working) to check the amperage draw. Keep in mind this is an old starter and if I had to hazard a guess I'd say it probably came out of a late 60's Alfa also the solenoid is of a different type from the one we're dealing with, at any rate the amps were quite bit higher than I expected.....measured at 21 amps consent when holding. With all the proper connections tight and solid I'd expect those amps would probably drop a couple of numbers to just under 20 , but still higher than I would have predicted. But........then again an old Bosch out of the scrape pile??????????? Take it for what it's worth.
I'd expect the solenoid we're working with to come in considerably lower. As a guess 10-12 amps?

Yep, mare you can solder those spade ends, just strip off that stupid plastic protection garbage off (that always keeps one from seeing if the crimp is good), slip a bit'o heat shrink onto the wire far enough so the solder heat doesn't get to it slip on the connector and solder away, slip the shrink back down, strike a match and watch the magic of science in action.
You can buy a inline fuse holder of the type you want and they come with pig tails already to use so you can just splice into your hot led somewhere conveniently located. Got your shrink wrap? Good, make the cut wherever, strip some insulation back twist the ends together and solder. Then desolder and take apart while kicking yourself for forgetting to put the heat shrink on first. lol
Slide the wrap over the soldered areas, play with some matches.
Open a PBR, give the horse a carrot and tell her what a fine job you did.

 

[KubotainNH]

What they said. Best to try and match the wire sizes to what that starter wire is. Not a huge deal though because the amperage is only on the wire long enough to start the motor, not continuous. Looks like 16awg is rated at 10 amps but that is continuous. 12awg is 20 amps. By the way, stranded wire for this not solid.

Here's a couple videos that may be helpful.

Auto Install - How to solder and heat shrink wires together - YouTube
Tutorial: How to crimp connectors, strip wire and use heat shrink. - YouTube

 

[rsallen]

Wish I had a gear reduced starter laying about so I could give a more accurate estimation of the draw instead an apple to oranges and a I guess by golly opinion on that. But I don't.
I just took a good look at my NH solenoid wire lead....and it is a good sized wire. 14 gauge at least.