Can an old lady get her MF1250 to start?

[Old Gray Mare]

Could it be the ignition switch at the "Start" position? I am trying to recall if the ignition got replaced when it was a couple of years old. I kinda think I did it with information/guidance from the dealership. I remember removing the dash cowling......

I looked at the schematic you, Kubotain NH, colored the wires on. There is NO WAY I'd be able to follow the routes on the engine. My head has been under the hood for the past few days trying to find the safety switches or relay. It is near impossible

I think the best solution for my situation, being without a service or dealership for hundreds of miles and hundreds/thousands of dollars in fees, would be a bypass switch installed on the dash. One that won't burn up like Walkin Horse's did.

I do need explicit instructions on wire sizes, switch styles, connections, etc.

Thanks again!!!

 

[rsallen]

A good place to start is to at least match or go one gauge bigger than the wire you removed from the solenoid. For the style of starter it looks like you have I shouldn't think the wire to be any bigger than 18 gauge, but whatever it is at least match it.
The button, it's a simple push=on, release=off. Just like any switch you've ever wired except that this switch is spring loaded to off. I wouldn't think you'd need one rated any higher than 15 amps and if you can find one that is shielded in rubber it'll stand up to the weather better than the purrrty shiny chrome ones.
So basicly what you're going to do is make yourself a new jumper wire. One side of your jumper goes to the starter and from there to one of the connections on the button switch, that's half your circuit. From there find yourself a 12 volt source, it'll be up to you if you want it a switched source or not, either way you want it to be a good source, one that you can get a solid clean connection. And once again at the least matching the gauge of the wire removed. Yes, while doing this next step disconnect the battery. Now get your hot wire connected to the source by whatever method is best for a solid connection and run the wire to the second connector on the button switch.....viola you have just made a remote starter switch. Route the wires and mount the switch in a convenient spot of use.
When routing the wires keep them away from rotating parts or high temp heat like the exhaust. Plastic wire ties are cheap and do a great job of keeping those wires where you want them to stay.
You shouldn't have to worry about any heavy draw on this circuit, I wouldn't think anything over 7 or 8 amps as a guess.
What usually causes problems with circuits like this are poor or sloppy connections that cause intermitant operation or overheating of the circuit.
So stay away from just wrapping bared wire wither and yon and depending on keeping them tight with a wrap of electrical tape.
I'm not much of a fan of the crimp connections but many people use them. If however you can solder you can use those connectors by stripping the plastic shield off and soldering the spades or bolt down rings onto the wire. It's makes for a much better circuit.

Have I muddied it all up enough yet for you? If not I'll try again.lol

 

[SPYDERLK]

Could it be the ignition switch at the "Start" position? I am trying to recall if the ignition got replaced when it was a couple of years old. I kinda think I did it with information/guidance from the dealership. I remember removing the dash cowling......

Yes. A rather probable cause. They, like solenoids, usually go thru an intermittent phase before failure. Try jiggling the key in the "Start" position.

 

[kw22614]

Hi and YOU GO GIRL!!!
Been reading this from the start and just keeping my 'mouth' shut as you're getting very good advice and instruction.
I agree with rsallen above - it's the best way to make this starter circuit. The switch will look like a doorbell button, just make sure it's one rated for 12Volts. You'll most probably have to drill a hole in the dash or whatever location you choose to mount it and try to find a convenient place easy to get to and also maybe under something so it won't be directly under any falling rain/snow. You could even cut a small piece of sheet metal or plastic and drill that to fit the switch then screw that somewhere more out of water's way or as a shield over the button. I think it best to use a 'switched' hot source - that means it won't start unless the key is turned to on - much safer that way. If you can access the back of the starter switch turn it on and use your meter to find a 12v source then turn key off - if it reads 0 then you've found your source very close to your new button and won't need to worry about a long run of wire somewhere. Hope this helps some (more meat for the casserole). Good luck and let us know how it goes and a pic or 2 of the button switch you connect and mount would be nice too.
On a side note; Wifey just retired end of May and helps me with lots of things I need an extra hand with. She is tenacious and figures things out too. The real things!!!! Good luck in all you do!

 

[radioman]

since you got the tractor started - and its not the starter but the run key works - chances are its 40/60 its the ignition switch. At this poi9nt , I would only follow that little wire from starter and follow it back to where it connects on the switch. chances are it broke from the mud. I really doubt its the switch as it will run in the run position jumpered. it gotta be one of the wires broken.

 

[SPYDERLK]

since you got the tractor started - and its not the starter but the run key works - chances are its 40/60 its the ignition switch. At this poi9nt , I would only follow that little wire from starter and follow it back to where it connects on the switch. chances are it broke from the mud. I really doubt its the switch as it will run in the run position jumpered. it gotta be one of the wires broken.

Start is an additional contact, separate from run.

 

[Old Gray Mare]

Okey Dokey...another challenge :dance1:

THANK YOU all once again for sharing your advice and giving this old lady some much needed support!!

So, I'm pretty sure I have some 16 guage wire in different colors to do the remote switch wiring. I'm not worried about drilling into the dash to mount a new switch, or any of that. BTW...I always, always cover the dash with a bungeed-on towel (keeps it like new and outta the sun and rain) and tip the seat over so the sun doesn't make it hot for my bum, and even after all these years it is like new The tractor is also parked under cover. As such, the new switch will be somewhat out of the direct weather, so I'll look online for a nicer one.

OK, I'll remove the dash cowling and should be able to access the ignition from there. It's a tight squeeze if I try to go through the engine side. Here's my questions:

1) When you say to go to the starter, that means where the dark blue arrow points to, correct? How do I get the new wire to stay in there? Are there connections to buy? How do I know it would fit...do they go by wire size?

2) Where is a reliable hot source, if not the positive on the battery? My truck has trailer brakes and a topper light that have connections at the batteries (there are 2). They use a bigger circular donut-looking style that is soldered to the wire (YES, I CAN SOLDER ) Would that be appropriate for the new switch? Would I add it to where the terminal screw is? I can route it cleanly past any moving or hot parts, like the fan or exhaust pipe.

3) How would the glowplugs work? Turn the key to "glow" and then use the new switch? Or key to "glow" then to "on" then use the new switch?

4) If I decide to test the ignition, how do I do that? It works on every spot, except "start". If it is bad, do I just replace that wire and run it back to the starter? Or get a new ignition switch? Maybe find one online?

Sorry for so many questions... :hypnodisk:

 

[Old Gray Mare]

Forgot to mention to those who are worried about me jumper the engine until I get it properly repaired... Before I bought the Massey, I lived in northern Idaho and owned a '48 Ford 8N with a huge 6' Duall loader and NO BRAKES. A brake job was $1500 (back in the 90's). To stop it I dropped the rear blade. To steer it, I had to stand up and use all my arm strength to get it to turn, even while it was moving forward. That loader was HEAVY! I did a lot of driveway work and put in a sand-filled roundpen with that tractor. When I wanted to put in an arena, that's when I decided to get the Massy. Power steering, automatic transmission, and brakes! Heaven The arena was cut into a hillside by a fellow with a huge Cat crawler and spiked dirt packer. One side of the arena dropped off significantly to the pasture below. I bought 10 double-loads of washed sand and spread all of it with the Massey. I *had* to be soooo careful to not go over the edge of that arena (before the fencing was put in).

As a result, every time I stop, I automatically and instinctively put the transmission into reverse! It also saves running into the side of a pickup when I give away and load manure to neighbors :laughing:

Just a bit of history on carefullness

 

[rsallen]

I think the conversation has been really good so far. Something someone said a few posts back threw out or made me realize a possibility I hadn't thought of.
It's very likely that the problem is somewhere in the line of safety switches relays etc. But if the ignition switch is still working properly you can fore go the remote switch all together by running a new wire directly from the solenoid connection to the start position terminal on the ignition switch.
One wire makes it simple.
The only thing I haven't looked through is if that start circuit also enables other things, but I doubt that for some reason.

Checking the ignition switch......okay this will be a four position switch no matter how many terminals are on the back. The first thing to look for is the positive hot wire...this one will be hot (12 volts) no matter what you do unless you disconnect the battery all the others will have no live feed.. The next terminals you'll be looking for will be for the run position, they will have nothing until the key is turned to the run detent then they'll read 12 volts. Just turn the key to run and go around the block and noting which terminals become live. Now you've eliminated quite a few wires to even think about. So all you have left is the glow circuit and start. Turn the key to glow and check the two (probably) two terminals left one will be live. The last one will be the start, turn the key to that position.....12 volts? Double check, release key nothing? Return to start, 12 volts? Great! Run new wire to solenoid.

 

[KubotainNH]

Once you pull that dash apart you may see the safety relay back there. I would wiggle all the connections and try to start it normally. There could be a corroded or loose connector, maybe you'll find mud. A picture of the back may be helpful.

Testing: the red line on the schematic is the one you care about at this point. The key (main) switch is on the far left, the line labeled 50. Hopefully it has that same label on the back of it. The wire should be Black with a Blue stripe because of the 2 letters near the wire on the schematic, BL. The legend is in the bottom left. You should have 12volts on this wire when key is at the start position and if you follow it you may find the safety relay nearby. If you find the relay, you could test the wire that goes to the starter. It is BR or Black with red stripe at the relay, also should have 12 volts when key set to start. I would wait on the bypass switch until you checked this out.

If you decide to run a bypass switch, the easy way is a fat lug on the battery to a fuse, maybe 20 amp, then down to a spade type connector that fits on the starter. All these parts can be found at an auto parts place and most good hardware stores. Please don't skip the fuse, electrical fires are no fun.