Can an old lady get her MF1250 to start?

[Old Gray Mare]

Took the cover off the PTO before starting the tractor. The PTO is NOT engaged.

I'm going to install the bypass starter switch, but would like suggestions on an alternate "hot" supply besides running a wire all the way to the battery.

I noticed that when the dealer installed the work lights, the tied into the fuse panel. It has 3 labeled "spare power supply". How would I utilize one of these? One is an empty 30A slot.

I just bought a 424 page service manual (copy of the original) from Yesterday's Tractor. Who knew my little red hen was considered old! I figure once it gets here, I can figure out how to get to the relays and maybe fix the problem the right way. Until then, the bypass will provide a way to start the tractor now and in the future, if needed.

Thanks again!

 

[rsallen]

So you have a spare slot on the fuse panel?
To me that means one side of the panel is already wired and all you need to do is provide the proper fitting to slide and fix into the panel then put the fuse in. Correct?

So the live feed is already there?

 

[5030]

:newhere:

Here's some history....I am a 64-year old female and bought the Massey Ferguson 1250 4WD diesel new in 1996 in Idaho. It has been flawless throughout it's 439 hour lifetime. Always started, even after sitting in sub-freezing temps in blizzards. Brought it with me to Ash Fork, AZ 4 years ago and it has/is my work partner.

Last week I used it to get some guys unstuck in the muddy road. The tractor did a perfect job and I drove it home (about a mile) and parked it as usual. The next day, go to start it and all I get is the sound of the glowplugs and a single "click" when the key is turned to start. The idiot lights lit up, horn works, turnsignals, etc. Turn the key off and another single click. I checked ALL of the fuses (even the 2 slow-blow ones), thoroughly cleaned and reinstalled the battery cables, cleaned and redid the ground strap, made sure everything was in neutral and PTO off. Still the same scenario. I checked the battery with a multimeter and it read 12.5V. I added distilled water to 2 of the cells that were real low.

I *think* it is a safety switch? The one for the seat was disconnected right after I bought it (the dealer did it for me) and I understand there is one for the transmission? Where is it located? Also, how do I test the starter or solenoid? I read that it can be jumpered? Huh?

Please keep in mind that I am an old lady that is not afraid to get greasy, but I have limited knowledge on tractor mechanics.

Thanks a bunch

Teal simple. Trundle down to Autozone and get a new battery. 12.5 volts across the posts is indicative of a shot battery. Should be at least 13-13.5 idle, no load, no charging either.

 

[dieselcrawler]

5030: read the whole thread... battery starts it just fine.

 

[Old Gray Mare]

So you have a spare slot on the fuse panel?
To me that means one side of the panel is already wired and all you need to do is provide the proper fitting to slide and fix into the panel then put the fuse in. Correct?

So the live feed is already there?

There is an empty 30A slot labeled "spare power supply" but I don't know if it is live. How do I test it? Stick the meter's red probe in there somewhere and the black probe to a ground bolt? What meter setting...VDC?

Thanks....again!!

 

[SPYDERLK]

There is an empty 30A slot labeled "spare power supply" but I don't know if it is live. How do I test it? Stick the meter's red probe in there somewhere and the black probe to a ground bolt? What meter setting...VDC?

Thanks....again!!

Exactly, but less ambiguous if you make it put out some current. An electronic V meter draws a couple millionths of an Amp when making its measurement ... essentially zero - and "leakage/bleedthrough" could power it enuf to fool you. Do you have a 12v test light you could make it power to prove itself?
larry

 

[rsallen]

There is an empty 30A slot labeled "spare power supply" but I don't know if it is live. How do I test it? Stick the meter's red probe in there somewhere and the black probe to a ground bolt? What meter setting...VDC?

Thanks....again!!

Yes Mare. you've got a handle on it. Meter on the vdc scale black to ground and red to positive. Ta da.....12 volts.
It may not be live all the time but it may be switched. If it's not live at all times, try it with the ignition switch in the run position.

 

[Old Gray Mare]

Yes Mare. you've got a handle on it. Meter on the vdc scale black to ground and red to positive. Ta da.....12 volts.
It may not be live all the time but it may be switched. If it's not live at all times, try it with the ignition switch in the run position.

Thank you! I'll give it a go tomorrow. Some t-storms are headed this way, so the tractor is covered up.

I have all the wires made and on the bypass start switch. I found an access hole in the firewall to run the wires through. Next steps....test the fuse panel and see what it says. OR...run the wires to dark blue arrow spot on starter/solenoid and another to battery. Of course, they'll be tied neatly to other bundles with black zip ties

Yes, the battery will be disconnected (negative first, then positive side) before I go hooking things up.

BTW...I absolutely LOVE the shrinky-dink tubes!! :laughing:

 

[jimpen]

You may want to make sure the hle in the firewall has a some sort of gasket or something that prevents the wires from chafing.

 

[Old Gray Mare]

You may want to make sure the hle in the firewall has a some sort of gasket or something that prevents the wires from chafing.

It does. The hole in the firewall itself is about 2" across and the rubber grommet (?) shrinks it to about 1/2" with slices (like a pie) for expansion. Not sure why it's there, but glad it is!

Thanks for the input