Can an old lady get her MF1250 to start?

[Old Gray Mare]

I think the conversation has been really good so far. Something someone said a few posts back threw out or made me realize a possibility I hadn't thought of.
It's very likely that the problem is somewhere in the line of safety switches relays etc. But if the ignition switch is still working properly you can fore go the remote switch all together by running a new wire directly from the solenoid connection to the start position terminal on the ignition switch.
One wire makes it simple.

I re-read everything last night (nuthin' better to do) and THIS possible and easy solution may just be the ticket since we know the blk/blu wire at the top of the ignition switch is the one that meanders through all the relays and connections and eventually back to the solenoid connection. If I disconnect that blk/blu wire and replace it with a new wire that is run directly to the solenoid, then all the relays and connections are avoided and the tractor should start with the key.....correct??

I will "assume" that the reason the blk/blu wire shows only 10.5 volts when the key is put to "start", there must be a bad something or other in that line? Will running a direct wire solve it?

I sure hope so....I'll be waiting for you all to give me the Go Ahead :thumbsup:

One more thing....does the battery need to be disconnected for this procedure since there are 0 volts to the blk/blu wire when it is "off"?

 

[bcp]

But the power going from the ignition switch to all those relays and connections is there for some reason. It just isn't going all the way to the solenoid.

I think I would first leave them connected and run the new wire, too.

Bruce

 

[Old Gray Mare]

But the power going from the ignition switch to all those relays and connections is there for some reason. It just isn't going all the way to the solenoid.

I think I would first leave them connected and run the new wire, too.

Bruce

So, keep the blk/blu wire as-is and stack the new wire onto that ignition switch terminal? Do I need to disconnect the battery (again!)?

Thanks for the input

 

[Xfaxman]

So, keep the blk/blu wire as-is and stack the new wire onto that ignition switch terminal?

Do I need to disconnect the battery (again!)?

Thanks for the input

Yes, but only the negative cable, that way you can't short anything accidently when working with the wiring. :thumbsup:

 

[KubotainNH]

Wow, I don't look at TBN for a couple days and tons of posts. Anytime you do wiring work, it's best to pull the battery ground just in case. Now I have to go back and read before I say anything else.

 

[kw22614]

To bad we're all not closer to you. Would be so much easier showing you than telling you how. You are tenacious enough - you'll get it right.

 

[KubotainNH]

Here's my thoughts....

- Sounds like the safety relay is hard to get at, so it is hard to remove? Removing the relay and shorting the BR to BL would remove all the safety parts. If it started this way then the issue would be the relay or something beyond it. Running from the lug that the blk/blu wire is on to the solenoid may work, it depends on if the switch is the issue. If you try using that lug then put the old wire aside for now.

- The wire on the blk/blu measuring under 11volts seems odd to me. I'm wondering if the voltage drop is part of the issue. You could try removing the wire at the solenoid and rechecking voltage.

- Looking at the schematic, number 30 on the switch goes to a large fuse then the battery so should be live at all times. The one marked AC should only be on when the key is on, you could use that one. It has a 30 amp fuse. If using that I would go on the other side of the fuse, looks like the "power source" you mentioned.

-I can mark up the schematic with what should be seen at each point of the safety circuit if you want.

-Heat shrink is a great invention.

 

[bigdeano]

View attachment 384158

Isn't the gap on the ignition switch terminal caused by the screw being loose? I would tighten the screw and see if it starts.

 

[KubotainNH]

Isn't the gap on the ignition switch terminal caused by the screw being loose? I would tighten the screw and see if it starts.

I think she means there's a gap between the terminal and switch. The angle of the picture makes it hard to tell what's on there.

 

[Old Gray Mare]

:cool2::cool2::cool2:IT WORKED!!!!!!!!!!!!!:cool2::cool2::cool2:

I ran a wire from the solenoid to the blk/blu ignition terminal (kept the original wire on the terminal). And...wait for it....

IT STARTED WITH THE KEY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

How happy is this old broad? Can we say ECSTATIC!!!!

:yes: :jump: :cheerful: :dance1: :laughing:

The wire isn't routed yet and there are things to put back together, so I can't drive it. But, until I get the service manual and figure out where and how to get to the safety relay, this fix is awesome!!

Thank you to ALL that helped and gave me encouragement through this newest learning experience (for me!)!

Cheers to everyone!! :cowgirl: :drink: :thumbsup: