Can/Should/How Would I Weld Grader Blade Arm? (Pics)

[sbrent]

I would recommend using a 3/32 7018. 3/32 because your a new inexperienced welder and the puddle is eaiser to handle. 7018 because it's a strong well rounded rod that works great in all positions. I would grind off the old weld and clean the rust. Set your welder to DC try around 75-85 amps to start with in the vertical. If you don't feel comfortable in the vert, try 90-100 in the flat. I would not bother wraping it meanwhile it's a great idea but you need a torch and still have to weld it on. I would add triangular gussets to the bottom side of the arm and run the length of the post. The more surface are you can contact the stronger it will be. If you need some guidelines on setting and using your machine let me kno I would be glad to help!

 

[Arc weld]

If you need to use 3/32" because you're inexperienced, vertical up isn't thing to start off on. That blade needs a good weld and if you don't have enough experience, get someone who does. It's counter productive to keep fixing the same thing over because you lack the skill to do it properly. This is nothing against the OP but making strong welds takes a lot of practice.

 

[aschwerin]

The decision is easy - 1/8" 7018. Why? Because the fella who bought my Ford 6600 tractor gave me 50 lbs of it.

Since I presently lack the skill to weld the implement properly, if I can't make a strong weld after 50# of 7018 I should probably sell my welder.

From the comments, it seems important to be cleaning the weld area well.

sbrent, I can still use advice on exactly what to try with the 7018. I think I should stay on the flat. Still working on good puddles. (And not to hijack my own thread, but my helmet seems real dark, an AutoArc? from TSC, I just feel half-blind while I am welding, even with shading and sensitivity turned all the way down.) Back to the weld - can I be using my 7018AC on DC or would I be better off sticking to AC with that particular rod?

 

[teg]

If you have scrape metal around, run a few dozen beads and post a photo of them... :2cents: for practice, if nothing else. Maybe it might show us something... {btw, my welds are VERY ugly but they have all held}

 

[sbrent]

The decision is easy - 1/8" 7018. Why? Because the fella who bought my Ford 6600 tractor gave me 50 lbs of it.

Since I presently lack the skill to weld the implement properly, if I can't make a strong weld after 50# of 7018 I should probably sell my welder.

From the comments, it seems important to be cleaning the weld area well.

sbrent, I can still use advice on exactly what to try with the 7018. I think I should stay on the flat. Still working on good puddles. (And not to hijack my own thread, but my helmet seems real dark, an AutoArc? from TSC, I just feel half-blind while I am welding, even with shading and sensitivity turned all the way down.) Back to the weld - can I be using my 7018AC on DC or would I be better off sticking to AC with that particular rod?

Ok well a 7018 1/8 would usually run around 100 amps prb a bit more on thicker material like you have. If it is an ac-dc rod use dc if it is an ac rod use ac. Ac stands for alternating current this means that's your polarity will be switching while you weld around 60 times a second (on 60 hertz) so a couple things that make ac more difficult to use is, starting your arc, and arc blow. Starting your arc takes a little practice, I find using a motion similar to striking a match works well. Make sure the rod is in motion before touching the material. Then lift the rod off the material about 1/4 inch or so. and stop moving, go back to your starting point and hold the rod off the material for a second or two to allow the material to heat up then push the rod into the puddle which should have begun forming while heating the material. Once your bead has started now your second trouble will begin arc blow. This is when the weld material tends to stick to only one piece of your work. To help correct this a little higher amperage should be used along with a watchful eye, be sure you push the rod into the void between the two pieces! Oh and you cannot weld if you can't see!!

 

[Arc weld]

I realize people like to be helpful and offer advice but sometimes they don't have the knowledge they think they do to be giving that advice. 7018 AC will work on DC. 1/8" 7018 generally burns around 130 amps but don't necessarily go by that setting on the machine as it can vary quite a bit from machine to machine. Set your heat by what the puddle is doing. On a flat plate a 1/8" rod will burn 6-7" and should have rounded ripples, not pointed and not much spatter. Arc blow is not what is described above. Arc blow is caused by magnetic fields that can occur when welding with DC current but the amps generally have to be 175+ for it to occur. Arc blow isn't a problem with 1/8". On your blade get it tacked and then position it so you can weld it in the flat position. Start your welds at the ends of the plate and weld from each end toward the middle so there is no crater at the corner for a crack to start. Make sure to clean up your tacks if you have to before welding over them. Before you do that though, do some practice beads on flat plate and post some pictures so we can get an idea of your skill level and offer some tips on how you could improve. 50lbs seems like a lot of rod but really isn't when you're first learning. On some jobs you'll burn over 50lbs a day.

 

[LD1]

Big thing here is make sure you get everything aligned correctly.

I had a blade of similar design once, it was broke in the same fashion and repaired by a previous owner. While the repair was solid and not about to break, it wasnt aligned correctly. thus when changing angles of the blade, I was always having to adjust toplink or sidelink to get a level cutting edge.

I ground everything off, aligned properly, and welded it with the mig.

It dont matter your choice of filler rod IMO, rather how good you can weld it with said filler. Since you are new to welding, I'd get an assortment of rods, and play with them on some scraps, and do some destructive testing with a hammer. Whatever you can get the best results from....go with that.

Lots of guys here dont like 7014. I have broke the end of the dipper stick off my backhoe while tearing out some concrete. (broke the pin boss that the bucket attaches to clean off). Welded it back together with 7014 and an AC welder. 100 hours later and it shows no signs of failing. I could weld that back together with 6013 or 7014 rod and have 100% confidence that it wouldnt fail.....something else on the blade would.

And I didnt see where you mentioned what welder you have? Maybe I missed it? IF you have an AC buzz box, no big deal. But if you have a machine capable of AC or DC, DC would be preferred.

 

[Brad_Blazer]

The ARCs are giving you plenty of good welding advice. The position of the outer tube will not have much effect on the angle of the blade vs. hole selection. Short of separating the angle plate from the blade, you could add another pin hole and bracket to the base, offset to the side that provides more symmetrical positioning.