Can this be repaired? If not, does replacement have to be exact OEM?

   / Can this be repaired? If not, does replacement have to be exact OEM? #1  

Old Gray Mare

Silver Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2014
Messages
136
Location
Ash Fork, AZ
Tractor
'96 Massey Ferguson 1250 4x4 w/1246 FEL, 6' LandPride rear blade, ABI rock rake, Farnam 8' double arena harrow.
Hello to all the wonderful and helpful tractor folk on here. I am stuck with this "situation" on my 1996 Massey 1250.

About a month ago, I was doing my typical walk-around and noticed a strong diesel smell from the tractor. I saw a diesel spot on the ground (about 5" across) under the fuel filter area. I found a slow drop from the overflow tube. This has NEVER happened before. This tractor has never leaked anything from the engine.
So I changed the fuel filter, bowl gasket, and o-ring up inside the housing. When I was bleeding the air, the valve would not stop a steady drip unless I turned it to about 11 o'clock. It still drips slowly.
And now when I gun the engine a little, there's black smoke at first then it goes away. Is this from too much air from the valve being offset?
Since I'm paying so much attention to the filter housing, I've noticed a seepage of fuel around the valve handle. It's very slow, but it's there.
My thought is that maybe there is an o-ring or gasket behind the valve handle? The one on the tractor doesn't show a gasket like the new one in the photo. There's a screw that looks like it goes directly into contact with the handle, so is that a way to remove the handle and repair a leak? Would a faulty "seat" cause the overflow to leak like a water spigot that drips?
This an image from the web...not from my tractor:

oem fuel filter housing with text1.JPG


This is an OEM replacement, but it's $178 !!!! Holy cow!

I found a different model that looks similar, but is missing the overflow tube stub. And it has 2 other screws that I don't know what for. It's less than $100

replacement filter housing1.JPG


What do you guys think I could/should do? My budget is tight (living on SS) so the less I spend, the happier this old gal will be ☺️
 
   / Can this be repaired? If not, does replacement have to be exact OEM? #2  
I suggest sticking with OEM for the filter housing. Looks like for starters you would need to source a longer bolt to mount the aftermarket you found.

Then the problem becomes remembering what cartridge fits the aftermarket. Also the quality of the cartridge. Going OEM may be cheaper in the long run.
 
   / Can this be repaired? If not, does replacement have to be exact OEM? #3  
In the first photo the screw is labeled "air" so I'd guess a bleeder screw.
The second photo I'd believe both screws to be air bleeders.
 
   / Can this be repaired? If not, does replacement have to be exact OEM? #4  
I wouldnt be afraid of taking that screw out and seeing if the valve assembly comes out.

There has to be seals in there.....and it had to be assembled some how.

Might just be a 99 cent o-ring
 
   / Can this be repaired? If not, does replacement have to be exact OEM? #5  
screw is air bleed, similar (different position) on MF1532. has nothing to do with valve (air/on/off) removal. its just where air/fuel blows thru when bleeding system after filter/bowl replace.
save yourself a ton of air bubble hassle. buy the right unit for the machine.
 
   / Can this be repaired? If not, does replacement have to be exact OEM? #6  
Whats on the back side of that valve? is there a retaining bolt, nut, or snapring of some kind?
 
   / Can this be repaired? If not, does replacement have to be exact OEM? #7  
I wouldnt be afraid of taking that screw out and seeing if the valve assembly comes out.

There has to be seals in there.....and it had to be assembled some how.

Might just be a 99 cent o-ring
What he said. A human put it together and another human can get it apart. Take it off the tractor, put it on a clean rag on the bench, take some pics so you remember what it looked like, and go for it. Nothing ventured nothing gained.

One downside to the after-market part might be that the filter is different from the original so you will need to mark it for future change outs.
 
   / Can this be repaired? If not, does replacement have to be exact OEM? #8  
On the original if the on/off handle has a screw in the middle try tightening it.

If that screw can be removed the valve handle and plug may be removable.
 
   / Can this be repaired? If not, does replacement have to be exact OEM? #9  
Talk to your local Massey dealer and see if they have a seal kit. I would venture to say the seals in the valve assembly deteriorated and when you closed the valve to work on it the movement finished them off. There should be o rings on the valve stem that you can replace when you pull it apart. If dealer does not have a kit your local parts store should be able to match up what you need. I would stick with rebuilding the old one or replacing with O‘em. Don’t be afraid to tear into it. Nothing ventured nothing gained. The screw should ride in a channel on the valve stem to keep it in the housing Unless there is a screw down the center.
 
   / Can this be repaired? If not, does replacement have to be exact OEM? #10  
Drain the fuel and take it down. If it can be serviced, could be just a few dollars. Maybe just a cracked o ring. Be sure to put a little grease on them when reassembly happens.
 
   / Can this be repaired? If not, does replacement have to be exact OEM? #11  
I’d attempt to take it apart and fix it. If you fail you’re still going to have to buy a new housing so there’s no reason not to try.
 
   / Can this be repaired? If not, does replacement have to be exact OEM?
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Talk to your local Massey dealer and see if they have a seal kit. I would venture to say the seals in the valve assembly deteriorated and when you closed the valve to work on it the movement finished them off. There should be o rings on the valve stem that you can replace when you pull it apart. If dealer does not have a kit your local parts store should be able to match up what you need. I would stick with rebuilding the old one or replacing with O‘em. Don’t be afraid to tear into it. Nothing ventured nothing gained. The screw should ride in a channel on the valve stem to keep it in the housing Unless there is a screw down the center.
Your thoughts on the valve stem having o-rings or such is what I was thinking. It just makes sense.
I bought the tractor in Idaho and am now in Arizona. No MF dealers anywhere here. I suppose I can call and find a dealer to ship to me.

Appreciate your advise 😁
 
   / Can this be repaired? If not, does replacement have to be exact OEM?
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Thanks for the help!
I'm encouraged to go for a repair. Here's a couple of pics from my MF. The small screw to the left of the valve handle does look like it may keep the handle on. There's no center screw inside the handle

MF fuel filter1.JPG
MF fuel filter4.JPG
MF fuel filter2.JPG


If I take out the valve, how do I prevent losing all the fuel from the tank? The hose (woven one) that comes from the tank is really hard/stiff.

I really need to use the tractor for Spring chores...would it hurt to keep using it? Could a person plug the overflow outlet to stop it from dripping? I seriously doubt I'd be able to twist wire like from the factory LOL
 
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   / Can this be repaired? If not, does replacement have to be exact OEM?
  • Thread Starter
#14  
I’d attempt to take it apart and fix it. If you fail you’re still going to have to buy a new housing so there’s no reason not to try.
My thoughts exactly!! Am definitely a DIYer ;)
 
   / Can this be repaired? If not, does replacement have to be exact OEM?
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Whats on the back side of that valve? is there a retaining bolt, nut, or snapring of some kind?
The backside is smooth...no bolts, nuts, or screws.
 
   / Can this be repaired? If not, does replacement have to be exact OEM?
  • Thread Starter
#16  
......Be sure to put a little grease on them when reassembly happens.
Always grease gaskets, seals, rings. My brothers taught me well 🔧🔧
 
   / Can this be repaired? If not, does replacement have to be exact OEM? #17  
When you go to put it back together -- this is probably the best lube for fuel systems I've ever used; it's used on aircraft. Not cheap, but it doesn't really age.

Screen Shot 2022-03-29 at 4.36.54 AM.png
 
   / Can this be repaired? If not, does replacement have to be exact OEM? #18  
It looks like that outside screw will be what’s holding the plug in.

easiest way to handle the fuel is to drain the tank.
 
   / Can this be repaired? If not, does replacement have to be exact OEM? #19  
Always grease gaskets, seals, rings. My brothers taught me well 🔧🔧

I always grease gaskets on both sides. I don't hesitate to cut a gasket out of a cereal or cracker box. Done that many a time. If I find some good paste board, I keep it just for that.
 
   / Can this be repaired? If not, does replacement have to be exact OEM? #20  
IF line from tank is pliable enough and not to brittle, you can probably use a pair of vice grips to pinch off line to keep it from flowing while you fiddle with valve/filter... Basically I would run tractor till fuel is very low in tank to keep from creating a very large puddle if things go wrong... IF valve assembly just has "O" rings any good auto parts or hydraulic shop should have them ... Just be sure the type of "O" ring is compatible with diesel fuel... Pictures sort of indicate you are not the first one to have a problem with this filter body... Even the bracket mounting the unit does not look standard/factory, looks like home brew, unit may not even be what came with tractor originally.
 
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