Can we talk about Concrete?

[Jchonline]

In regards to floor insulation. It's not cheap as someone mentioned. 2" will cost $24-ish per sheet. You need 102.

If you are gonna heat the building insulate the floor.

In regards to radiant floor heat. It will cost you an additional $1,500 to buy the pipe/fittings and pay to have it installed. Whether you spend the additional $3,000 to make it heat is up to you.

You only get one chance to have floor heat.

The added cost of insulation and piping is insignificant when compared to the total cost of construction. For example, what's your estimated total cost for this building?

For my 24x30 it cost me $1700 for foam board, wire mesh, all pex with fittings, and installation. Just to give OP a ballpark. My solar/thermal installer we are designing with on the house strongly recommended we get the hydronic tubing put in the garage as well. Well worth the expense IMO.

 

[ovrszd]

For my 24x30 it cost me $1700 for foam board, wire mesh, all pex with fittings, and installation. Just to give OP a ballpark. My solar/thermal installer we are designing with on the house strongly recommended we get the hydronic tubing put in the garage as well. Well worth the expense IMO.

Yep, we're heating the garage floor as well. I have no history of use to offer yet.

 

[bigtiller]

If a garage doesn't have a floor drain, when the snow/ice melts off the car, wouldn't the overhead door be frozen to the floor the next morning?

 

[ovrszd]

If a garage doesn't have a floor drain, when the snow/ice melts off the car, wouldn't the overhead door be frozen to the floor the next morning?

My current shop has no floor drain. No floor heat. Melt off runs under the overhead. It's never frozen. That shop has never been below 60F degrees.y

The shop we're finishing now doesn't have a floor drain. Has floor heat. I don't expect any problems.

The house we are building with attached garage doesn't have a floor drain. Has a 3" slope toward the overhead. Has floor heat. Don't expect any problems there either.

In attached pic, garage is in the foreground. Overhead exiting to the right. Look closely and you can see the floor slope.

 

[PA hayseed]

I'm not a concrete guy, just a guy who has had a lot of concrete poured at my place. I normally grade it, form it, and do the rebar and tying myself, then I hire masons to help me spread it, float it, and trowel it (I cannot trowel). I've been complimented on my work and been offered a job or two.

Anyway, if you do get control joints cut in your concrete, you can use backer rod and a caulk to seal them with. I just use the caulk, and use my finger, and some dishsoap to spread it with. There are other types of the caulk that are self leveling but they seem to be a little messy on a driveway. Keeps the dirt out on the inside jobs and keeps the water from freezing and cracking it on the outside jobs. Ask your crew if they are including that in the price.

You may want to seal it, ask your crew about their idea for that too, and their price to do it, or what sealer they use and do it yourself. Lots of arguments on when to do it and what to use.

Good luck

 

[goeduck]

My shop/boatshed was built by the original owner with a slope to the floor. I have a boat launch so any water off of a boat brought into it (still be wet after rinsedown) runs out the overhead door opening towards the water. At first I had to get used to the slope. While slight, any wheeled equipment/vehicle with good bearings will roll to the door and since my door faces the boat launch, the equipment or vehicle will continue rolling down the launch accelerating all the way to the saltwater. The mere thought of this has galvanized my methodology of making sure brakes are set, equipment is set 90 degrees to the slope or blocked in place. Having said all this, I would still prefer a slope to a drain. As mentioned the amount of drain clogging debris that makes it inside is better blown outside with the blower than clogging a drain. My slope is probably too much, what slope would be advised for the OP?

 

[ovrszd]

My new garage has 3" across 24'. I think it's a bit excessive. Would have accomplished the goal with 2". Maybe even 1.5"

 

[Steppenwolfe]

My new garage has 3" across 24'. I think it's a bit excessive. Would have accomplished the goal with 2". Maybe even 1.5"

That is about standard, 1 inch in ten ft is good.

 

[Redlands Okie]

A poster or two has linked some fibers that if mixed to proper ratio appears to replace rebar. Interesting. Good to know and some new learning to start on it seems.
One thing to keep in mind. What kind / brand of fibers does your local concrete plant have in stock and provide or can obtain ? Do they meet the requirements......

 

[Streetcar]

That is about standard, 1 inch in ten ft is good.

Standard slope on sidewalk is 1/4”/ foot for reference