Can't just retube that

   / Can't just retube that #41  
You need to keep the tire pushed down off the lip of the wheel so it’s in the middle section of the wheel. That way it can move quite a bit from side to side and allows you to roll the bead over the wheel rim without actually stretching the tire.

You need a helper or a clamp or something to push the tire down at about the 6 o-clock position. If it’s down and off the edge of the rim you’ll be able to roll the rest of it into place.

Wish I could explain it better. But the tire bead can’t be in its final position until the tire is completely mounted. They really don’t stretch overall. Need to allow the whole tire to move directionally as you work it onto the rim. The bead OPPOSITE where you're prying can't be "set" -- must be pushed down on the wheel where the diameter of the rim is much less and the tire can move in the direction that you're prying.

Edit -- In other words, pay close attention to the opposite side from wherever you're prying. In order to work the tire bead over the edge and onto the rim, you have to keep the OPPOSITE side pushed down into the belly of the wheel so the whole tire can shift your direction a bit and allow it to roll onto the rim.

I'm sure you're using a lot of lube. That's also key.

Nice job o

I'll take a pass at this. As you're pulling one lip over the edge of the rim, both opposite edges of tire (upper and lower) have to be sucked into the middle of the rim - It is a smaller diameter, and it gives you some "slack". Put a brick at the edge of the wheel on the back side to hold the tire up slightly, and push the top side down slightly (so both tire edges are sucked into the middle of the rim), and with your third arm, stretch the tire over the rim.
 
   / Can't just retube that #42  
See 1:15 .... and you'll need 2 tire irons

 
   / Can't just retube that #43  
I made a couple of changes on my HF mounting bar.

I lengthened mine, so it is now 5' or 6' long. A little extra leverage helps.

I also added a piece of square tubing down near the place where it rides on the rim to help keep it from rolling.

Make sure you soap up the tire.

You have a tube so setting the bead shouldn't be a problem. Just be careful not to pinch the tube under the bead. On the other hand, for tubeless, I like to put a bicycle tube 16" or 20" or so, around the gap to help keep the air in and seat the bead. Once I begin to get the bead seated, I pull the tube out of the way.
 
   / Can't just retube that #44  
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   / Can't just retube that #45  
We used to have a couple of pieces of leaf springs with rounded corners and beveled edges that we used as tire irons,
 
   / Can't just retube that #46  
Cleaned up the inside, went to mount the tube, and it was the wrong size... Completely ruined my motivation for the evening.

IMG-1393.jpg
I've read of some guys using the old tube to make a rim liner. They cut it in half circularly, and use the inner half.
New rim liners are are sold for 26" tires down.
 
   / Can't just retube that
  • Thread Starter
#47  
I'll tell you what, this one trick saved me and made it super easy. 2 days of messing with it, and i had it on in 5 minutes.

Remember, thick tractor tire with the thick bead is about 1/2" thick of 75 year old rubber. If i was messing with a small car tire i'm pretty sure i'd have gotten it without issue.

GX016381-MP4-snapshot-09-18-476.jpg
 
   / Can't just retube that #49  
I'd put the tube inside of the tire after 1st bead is on, add a "little" air (just enough to give it a soft form), then careful not to pinch it, put the second bead on ...
 
   / Can't just retube that #50  
I'll tell you what, this one trick saved me and made it super easy. 2 days of messing with it, and i had it on in 5 minutes.

Remember, thick tractor tire with the thick bead is about 1/2" thick of 75 year old rubber. If i was messing with a small car tire i'm pretty sure i'd have gotten it without issue.

GX016381-MP4-snapshot-09-18-476.jpg
But the c-clamps might scratch the paint! :ROFLMAO:
 
   / Can't just retube that
  • Thread Starter
#51  
I'd put the tube inside of the tire after 1st bead is on, add a "little" air (just enough to give it a soft form), then careful not to pinch it, put the second bead on ...
That's what I ended up doing, took it back off, then put hte tube in, air, then back on.
 
   / Can't just retube that #52  
I think you learned a lot about mounting a tire :rolleyes:
 
   / Can't just retube that
  • Thread Starter
#53  
But the c-clamps might scratch the paint! :ROFLMAO:
They werent' tightened down, just hooked. I was thinking about regular rims, I would say furniture pads would probably work on the c clamp.
 
   / Can't just retube that #55  
But guess what doesn't work!

GX016381-MP4-snapshot-14-01-538.jpg
I just had a new 600-16 front tire put on my rim yesterday; no way I'd wrestle with it myself @ 83. The new 600-16 6 ply tire was $117 including taxes, they used my old tube saying it appeared like new.
When I DIY years ago I did as Shawn said with one exception; after mounting you aired the tube to perhaps 20psi then let it deflate. Do that 2x to insure there's no wrinkles or folds, then air up to sidewall pressure.
Pinching a new tube is a bummer, patching it is humilitating.
 
   / Can't just retube that
  • Thread Starter
#56  
I just had a new 600-16 front tire put on my rim yesterday; no way I'd wrestle with it myself @ 83. The new 600-16 6 ply tire was $117 including taxes, they used my old tube saying it appeared like new.
When I DIY years ago I did as Shawn said with one exception; after mounting you aired the tube to perhaps 20psi then let it deflate. Do that 2x to insure there's no wrinkles or folds, then air up to sidewall pressure.
Pinching a new tube is a bummer, patching it is humilitating.
As I'm half your age, I feel like I should at least make the attempt. But I'll say, if this doesn't work, I'll be placing my order for a new rim without hesitation.

I did inflate the tire, then deflate to make sure there weren't any wrinkles. Then I inflated to 6psi and bounced the tire around, 10 psi and repeat, 14 psi, and eventually 24psi. I feel like bouncing it got the bead to set into place properly with the various pressures. I was worried the extra material that I welded in would interfere with the bead, but I guess i grinded away as much as was necessary to let it set properly.
 
   / Can't just retube that #57  
As long as it holds air, and goes "round and round" ... It's fine ... It's not like it's going on a Corvette! 😁
 
   / Can't just retube that #58  
I think you did a great job. The only concern I'd have is with how the tube might wear a little near the edges of your repair plate. But I'm sure you did as good a job as possible with softening or feathering those edges, and could probably even add body filler later if needed. Probably not any short-term concern, unless the plate edges were left sharp.

Hey, speaking of which... anyone remember how they'd line a spoked bicycle wheel with a large rubber band or scrap of old inner tube, to protect the tube from the spoke adjuster t-nut heads?
 
   / Can't just retube that #59  
Yup, and the old split rim style of semi-truck rims had a rubber liner too!
 
   / Can't just retube that #60  
With that success, I think you're ready to move on to mounting a tire on a split rim wheel :eek:

 
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