Car Burns Oil???

[Diamondpilot]

Looked into STP. They have 4 formulas now days but I may give these two a try. I saw it the other day and I think they were something like $2 each. Its 400 miles from its next oil change so I will substitute some of the oil for a container of one of these and see what happens????


STP - Oil Treatment
STP - Smoke Treatment

Chris

 

[tallyho8]

I highly recommend the STP oil treatment. I have used it in many high mileage engines with amazing results.

 

[Fultrtl]

I have had a couple of vehicles that used oil and was told by an old mechanic to do this. The night before your oil change remove your plugs and put wd40 into each cylinder and let it set overnight. The next morning spin the motor over with out the plugs to clear out the wd 40 replace the plugs and do the oil change. His view was over time the rings would tend to stick to the piston and not allow them to do their job and the wd 40 would help unstick them. That said I did it to and older Datsun pickup and a ford truck that was burning oil. Both of them stopped the oil burning dead in it's tracks. You can take this for what it worth. By the way my daughter has a Saturn that will use oil out of the blue then not have it happen again for months
Wayne

 

[carpenter383]

I think I will try the 5W40. I really think its the rings. I have looked down the spark plug holes, they are centered over the pistons being a Hemi Engine, and do not see any oil. This leads me to believe its not leaking from the valve area but is getting burnt past the rings. Like I said in the first post there is a history of ring problems on these engines.

Chris

If you want to find out for sure if it's the rings do this...Pull the spark plugs, run a compression test note the numbers (they should be within 15% of each other) Squirt a small amount of oil in the spark plug holes, compression test again if it shows more psi it's the rings... Note... compression tests should be done at WOT for acurate readings. Also you should prolly unhook the injectors or the feul pump so you don't dump feul down the engine while you crank it.... BTW you may consider running rotella t (yes diesel oil) It's thicker plus it has not been stipped of zinc and phosphorus like gsoline oil...When I built my 383, comp cams specified the use of diesel oil for the break-in for these reasons

 

[garc]

Also you should prolly unhook the injectors or the feul pump so you don't dump feul down the engine while you crank it....

It may be simpler to use a hand held starter switch between the + battery and the small post on the back of the starter solenoid leaving the ignition switch in the OFF position. This should bypass the ECM to allow cranking without fuel or ignition although it's always wise to verify. If you know where the fuel relay is you could also pull it out. A remote starter switch makes engine compression checking much easier regardless. Although we are all accustomed to engines that don't use much oil between changes using a quart in 800 to 1000 miles is within "industry" if not consumer standards. This rate of consumption normally has no ill effects on the use of the automobile other than topping up between changes and, other issues not withstanding, will sustain itself for the life of the engine.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Thanks for all the info guys. I talked to a guy today at Napa and he said to use Kendal 10W40. He mentioned just like you guys did its a "Old Timers Oil" not stripped of some of the good stuff older engines need.

On the WD40 thing, how much do you put in? I have a new can that is 12oz so would 1/4 can or 3 oz per cylinder be too much? I was also told to take 12oz Coke and 12oz of kero and do the same thing putting 3oz of each in all 4 cylinders. Something about the Coke eats carbon and the kero loosens the rings. I may give each a try, both the WD40 and the Coke/Kero trick. I feel I have nothing to loose and as long as you use a turkey baster with a piece of hose to remove all left over fluid off the top of the cylinder before putting back in the spark plugs along with cranking it over a few times with the plugs out should remove all remaining stuff.

Chris

 

[dodge man]

I wouldn't do a thing to it. There is a chance you could make it worse or damamge it. The only thing that will help is a heavier oil. That is basically what STP is doing, making the oil thicker so it doesn't get by the rings. Snythetic is usually thinner oil when it cold and that won't help. Two quarts of oil a month is pretty cheap if you like the car otherwise.

 

[Fultrtl]

It has been awhile since I did it, if my memory is correct it was maybe a tablespoon in each cyl it was not all that much.
Wayne

 

[BotaBigot]

I wouldn't do a thing to it. There is a chance you could make it worse or damamge it. The only thing that will help is a heavier oil. That is basically what STP is doing, making the oil thicker so it doesn't get by the rings. Snythetic is usually thinner oil when it cold and that won't help. Two quarts of oil a month is pretty cheap if you like the car otherwise.

What dodge man said...I agree on all points...I especially wouldn't switch to synthetic at this late date.

 

[garc]

On the WD40 thing, how much do you put in? I have a new can that is 12oz so would 1/4 can or 3 oz per cylinder be too much? I was also told to take 12oz Coke and 12oz of kero and do the same thing putting 3oz of each in all 4 cylinders. Something about the Coke eats carbon and the kero loosens the rings.

Whoa Nelly! Coke is 1/3rd sugar and the residue is not going to do your rings or bearings any favors. Sugar is not soluable in gasoline but add the heat of combustion to the residue and you may make things worse. Try as you might you won't get it all out. Even the WD-40 could do more harm than good if it frees up little chunks of carbon to scratch your cylinder walls. The only thing I would add is half an ounce of oil to seal the rings during a compression test. Spin the engine first to spread it around then retest. Use 3oz, crank the engine over and you'll be wearing it.

Contrary to my Bottom Line - if it ain't broke don't fix it! 800mi/qt is not broke. Continuous oil smoke out your tailpipe is broke. This is not the time to be looking for a mechanic in a can. As others have advised STP (a viscosity improver) or 5W40 (a higher viscosity at operating temperature than you are using now) will yield better results.

One small footnote: As a kid I ran kerosene through my sludged up 50 Ford flathead and ended up with a clutch that worked 15 minutes a day. I lost a little respect for my buddy's wise old dad after that. You do the math.