Caroni Flail Belt Failure

[IslandTractor]

I'll check in the morning now that I am with the mower.

I don't recall doing anything unusual and certainly did not need an extra tool to get the idler to behave.

I recall loosening things up and then gently prying the new belt over the pulley edge and then hand turning the pulley to get the belt on.

I appreciate that Iron Horse doesn't like the size of the spring but he is used to heavier flails. I may be the only person to have changed the spring but I noted no difference in tension or pulley temperature with heavy mowing after the change over. If I recall correctly, my first set of belts burned up after that change. I think it was more related to crappy no name belts myself. It is too early to be sure about that but the Gates belts have been fine since I put them on about 18 months ago.

 

[leonz]

Hmmmm.....easy huh? Not today.

I went out to try to install the three PIX B43 belts I ordered from Agri Supply.

I completely ran the nut out on the bolt attached to the spring. Even run out all the way, the tensioner isn't far enough back to be out of the way. I managed to get the first belt on the first pulley and now I'm stuck. I can't get it off and I can't get it to go over the sheaves and on to the rear set of pulleys.

Not fun. I think I'll go dig some more potatoes, that will make me feel better.

HELP Mr. Wizards HELP!!

Ok can i ask if you are trying to install the new belts with the snubber behind the front portion of the three belts with the front flat edge pulled inward trying to position the snubber too far forward??

The snubber should putting pressure in the back/rear flat side of the 3 belts to provide proper tension not the front sideflat edge of the three belts?

 

[Bill the Elder]

Sounds like the belts are too short , can you post a picture ?

Here are a couple of pictures that explain my situation better than I can.

Any tips on how to get those belts on without doing any damage with a prying tool would be much appreciated.

 

[Eagleview]

They look about the same as what's on IT's flail .

Were the originals B43's ?

The trick with these belts is to take the PTO shaft off so the pulleys , turn easily . Put the belt on one pulley and started on the other , then with both hands on the belt (front and rear) pull up on one side so the pulleys turn and wind the remainder of the belt on . From were you are now with that first belt (if they are in fact the correct belts) , start the belt onto the next sheave and rotate the pulleys . You will now have the belt on the first sheave of one pulley and on the second sheave on the other pulley . Now start the other end onto the second sheave and rotate again . Repeat until it is on the last sheaves and start the process over with the second belt and so on (it is extremely important that you don't allow the belt to roll over on it's back as you do this , it can damage them ) . That idler will have to be pulled back out of the way and held back .

 

[IslandTractor]

B43 is correct. The originals were labelled with metric sizing. I have B43 belts now.

When I replaced my belts I used almost exactly the same method described by IronHorse. I vaguely recall using a screwdriver to pry the belt up over the lip of the first pulley. After that it was just rotating the pulley to feed the belts on. Moving a belt from the first to second or third sheave was easier and again used the rotation of the pulley. I did not need to disassemble any part of the PTO drive to free the pulleys but I might have disconnected the PTO shaft from the tractor. I can turn the flail shaft by hand without disconnecting the PTO when I am changing knives so it may not be necessary to disconnect.

I would also not worry about removing the idler adjustment bolt completely if that is necessary to remove all pressure. I took mine of and on when I was experimenting with the spring. I don't recall any significant problem getting it back on.

 

[Bill the Elder]

Thank you IH and IT. I will attempt to follow your instructions and see if I can complete this "easy" maintainance procedure.

My parents were victims of the "get big or get out" period of American agriculture and as such were adamantly opposed to my becoming a farmer. Every effort was expended to keep me away from learning practical skills and to point me towards the achievement of academic excellence.

So here I am getting a farm going in my 50s (due to my wife's career I spent 25 years in a city, just about destroyed me) with tremendous deficiencies in repairing and maintaining the machinery required to make this operation successful. Thanks for helping me out and please excuse the simplicity of some of my "problems."

Changing belts on adjustable pulleys is all I've ever done, dealing with these fixed sheaves is a new experience for me. Would it help if I warmed the belts? Our temps right now are between 60 and 70 and the belts are very stiff.

 

[IslandTractor]

I put my belts on in 70's temperatures without warming them. I'm guessing that you just need to pry each belt over the first sheave and you'll find it goes pretty easily from that point. I probably used a big screwdriver but don't recall precisely.

 

[Bill the Elder]

Thanks guys, I have successfully put the belts on. As with everything, once I've got some idea what to expect and what to look for things aren't so tough to accomplish.

Couple of follow up questions. I noticed there's some roughness on the surface of the tensioner. Should I be concerned about that shortening the life of the belts? If so, is there anything I can do to smooth things out?

Second, after a few hours of mowing would it be smart to go back in and make sure the belts haven't loosened up and perhaps retension the assembly so that the 3/8" deflection is reestablished?

Thanks again for all your help. I am grateful.

 

[IslandTractor]

Congratulations. I agree that a lot of these tasks seem tough before you go through it.

No harm in checking tension after a few hours mowing. I found there was no change so I haven't checked again.

The tension roller only rubs the back of the belt and is totally passive so I cannot imagine it would hurt the belts. If you don't see the belt backside scarred after a few hours I wouldn't worry any further.

 

[Eagleview]

Your welcome , any help you need just ask . That's what this forum is all about .

I suggest removing the PTO shaft because usually they are not aligned 100% depending on the height and offset the mower is at when you are working on it and also where you are working on it . If it is the paddock in longish grass , the rotor will be hard to turn as the grass adds friction . If the shaft is not straight , it also adds friction as universal joints speed up and slow down twice every revolution and are harder to turn when not in a straight line .

If the rougness you speak of on the idler is just surface rust , it will wear off shortly . If it something else , could you post a picture ?