Carter Lumber Pole Building kit info

[LD1]

Very nice, I was thinking about stick built but looks like it would push the budget more then I'd like.

I remembered that I have a lumber mill about a mile from my house so I'll have to check with them, planning on doing concrete piers and brackets so shouldn't have any need for pressure treated.

I like the crane, was planning on doing one myself but it'll be a ways down the road unless I fall into some heavy I beam for super cheap.

Believe it or not, going block and stick built didnt cost any more. I was pricing a pole barn about every way imaginable. 8' posts , 10' posts, and 12' post spacing....2', 4', 6', 8', 10', 12' truss spacing and every combination thereof. Had I gone post frame, it was gonna be 12' posts. Because I wanted some 12' doors on one side and it would just make it easy. Plus less holes to dig and less of the pricey 6x6 posts. Have YOU considered 12' post spacing?

Trusses were gonna be a toss-up. 12' trusses (built alot heavier) are more expensive per, but about significantly less total as I would need less. But would require a 2x6 ON EDGE for purlins. 4' trusses, given I need alot more, was a higher total price. Plus the need for a significant header all the way around the top. But 2x4 purlins laid flat would have saved quite a bit, and beend alot easier to do roofing, and finishing the interior ceiling.

Ultimately I decided stick built was the way to go and went with 4' trusses. Each 4' OC 40' span and no overhang trusses cost me $140ea delivered and I needed 19. So $2660 there.

But when comparing stick vs post.....if you can dig/pour a footer and lay block yourself....cost is a wash. Obviously stick/block takes longer, is alot more labor intensive, and cost more if hired out.

Here is a rough comparison: Roof structure is the same, siding the same. And same # of 2x6 studs, because a post frame, I would have also spaced 2x6's on 2' centers. Just running horizontal instead of vertical. However, With vertical, I needed sheathing, whereas post frame I would not have. This is for the 40x72x14
Block and rebar and j-bolts for foundation........$1750
Concrete for footer.........................$1050
OSB sheathing for exterior..............$700
Total $2500

If post frame, I would have needed:
14 6x6x18' posts @ $65ea..............$910
6 6x6x22' posts @ $90ea...............$540
~36 bags of concrete for post footers.....$100
Treated skirt boards.........................$150
(24) 2x12 double top header on eave ends...$550
Total.....................................................$2250

Not much difference on a 30k building. And I like the block. Dont have to worry about weld sparks or water getting on my interior. And I think it is just a better way to build.

I am by no means a building expert. I helped dad build a pole barn when I was 16, I built a 30x50 pole barn at my old house, and now this one. But I am happy with the results, And honestly, if I had to do it over, the only thing I would change would be to build it bigger.

 

[TMGT]

I'm still considering a lot of things, lots of options and just trying to get the best construction for my uses and stay in budget.

I've always liked the idea of having the block or concrete to get the wood/siding away from the ground and potential for damage.

I might have a friend that can engineer and build steel trusses and make it affordable, have to check with him.

Main worry with stick built is added time/labor, life's busy these days.

I was planning on 4ft OC with wood rafters and 2 2x6's for the top band. Metal would be 10ft OC, I really don't like the idea of stretching the columns more then that.

I need to start writing down the different idea and getting prices, some of my ideas are probably overkill, just depends on price.

The more I save on the building the more I have to things like mezz, lift, hvac, etc.

 

[LD1]

Not sure of snow and roof loads in your area, if any.....but double 2x6 header.....with 10' posts......and a 40' roof = NOT ENOUGH.

A few things to consider.....go 40x50 if you insist on 10' post spacing. Just works out nice. And if you do this, get trusses that can go 5' OC. Dont buy trusses from a box store if you go wood. Buy them from a truss MFG adn tell them exactaly what you want. If they are local, they will know the loading requirements in your area. Reason to go 5' on 10' post spacing...is every other truss can directly be tied to the post. Preferably notched in.

If not.....if 4' trusses are gonna be what you go with....consider 8' posts and your 48' dimension. (spacing can still be 10' or whatever on the gables)

Truss loading up here in my area is something like 30 pounds per sq ft total load.

Using that.......where the truss sits on top of the header (assuming you do as I mentioned above with spacing).....for 10' posts and 5' trusses, each point where the truss sits is carrying the weight of 100sq ft of roof. Thats 3000#

If 4' trusses each truss is carrying 80 sq ft of roof. Or 2400#

Header loading gets funky if you do 10' posts and 4' trusses. Cause the spacing changes.

But 3000# in the middle of a 10' header needs more than a double 2x6. As does 2400# in the middle of a 8' header.

 

[TMGT]

I meant to say 5ft to make it easy, goal was to have trusses on post, post would be notched for header. Snow load should be 25lbs here. There was a truss manufacturer in town, believe they are still around but moved so was planning to investigate that.
I haven't done the load calculations yet so was basing the 2 2x6 header on other construction I've seen, it'll get stepped up if needed.

48 or 50, whatever works out, like I said nothing set in stone but want around that size.

I'm at the end of a 12 day work week of midnights, so typing isn't as clear as it should be. At least I get a day off before going back for 7 days. Like I said, quicker construction is a plus.

 

[LD1]

Yea, 10' span and point load right in the middle.....you need more than a pair of 2x6's. There are some charts out there. Work nights myself and getting ready to call it a day and head to bed now or I'd try to find something.

You can point load at mid span about half of what a evenly distributed total load is. My trusses are 4' (so a more even distribution), our snow load seems similar up here, and on my 12' door opening on the eave end....it got a 3 2x12's with 2 layers of sheathing in there sandwitched in (to make 5.5")

With doing siding and sheathing the entire wall.....that will help you too as the entire wall acts as a shear wall. As will knee braces.

But just seat of the pants here I'd think you would need at least a double 2x12. If not more

 

[TMGT]

Found the number for local truss builder so will give them a call tomorrow if they're open.

Guess that's an advantage of the steel trusses on 10ft OC is not buying a bunch of 2x12s

 

[LD1]

Found the number for local truss builder so will give them a call tomorrow if they're open.

Guess that's an advantage of the steel trusses on 10ft OC is not buying a bunch of 2x12s

You can get wood trusses 10' OC as well. At least in a standard style. Call around. I contacted probably 8 different builders. They all deliver. Where I got them from, was about 2hrs away. Got an engineered drawing, where to brace the bottom chord, etc.

Everything is a trade-odd though.
10' pros......Fewer to set, no big header needed, No uplift brackets needed cause they can thru-bolt to the post
10' cons......alot heavier, requires 2x6 on edge purlins

4' pros.....2x4's flat for purlins, easier to roof, easier to walk the bottom chords and tie stuff in
4' cons.....heavy header needed, more to set

Price it both ways and see. when I was pricing out 12' spacing trusses, I was gonna set the purlins flush with the top of the truss, and set them in saddle hangers like this Simpson PFDL26B 2x6 Post Frame LVL Saddle Hanger - G9 Galvanized, that way those could all be installed on the ground. Then once trusses are set, its just a matter of dropping in the purlin and running the side nails in. As opposed to haning a 6" tall purlin ON TOP OF the truss. Which would make the facia about 15" vertically, and look odd I think.