Case 430 model

   #1  

tman1020

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Looks like I’m going to be getting a case 430 model tractor. Never heard of them or know anything about them.
Anybody know anything about them?
Good or bad or otherwise I think it is going to have a front loader on it as well. Hasn’t run in about 10 years and I haven’t even seen a picture of it yet.
Be nice to know if there any good before I put a bunch of time into it trying to get it into decent running condition. Not even sure what year it is thinking maybe mid 60s but I haven’t even seen a good picture of it yet.
 
   #2  

Industrial Toys

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It was on our list of a potential tractor to buy in 72. I think it was a great tractor, and we ruled it out for being more expensive. I probably still have the brochure!
 
   #3  

DJ54

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IH Farmall 656 gas/ IH 240 Utility/ 2, Super C Farmalls/ 2, Farmall A's/ Farmall BN/McCormick-Deering OS-6/McCormick-Deering O-4/ '36 Farmall F-12/ 480 Case hoe. '65 Ford 2000 3 cyl., 4 spd. w/3 spd Aux. Trans
Pretty decent no frills tractor. If it has a gas engine, those things are pretty much bullet proof, if someone has serviced it half way decent. If it is a gas engine, depending on the year it was made, it could have different distributors in it, so make sure you check to see which one is in it. Case was known to change things like that at certain serial numbers. Serial number plate shouldbe riveted to the dash, to the right of the steering wheel. Write it down, and saveit. You'll need it when ordering parts.

It'd be an idea once you get it, and find the serial number, to get a parts catalog/manual for it. You can probably find one on ebay for $20-$30. Case/IH still has anonline parts catalog, but they've dropped a LOT of part numbers they don't stock anymore. So a hard copy if you can find oneis best. OEM, or reprintwill work. Also get a service/repair manual. You'll thank yourself at some point.

I will almost guarantee that the brakes will not be the best. They are great when they work, not so much when the bull pinion seal leaks, and the brake discs get oil soaked. Just the nature of the beast's on all models with the disc brakes. The good news, they are fairly easy to service. You'll need to drain the transmission oil to make the repair. If the disc's are in decent shape, you can boil the oil out of the discs with a propane torch. They are bonded disc's, so the heat won't hurt them. Or, you can just buy new one's. I opted to boil the oil out of mine, after being told by a old timey Case mechanic that it can be done. Bull pinion shaft seals can be bught at about any bearing supply. Should be less than $20 ea. If the springs are broken on the expander, between the discs, parts are plentiful, prices vary depending on where you look. On my 310B (same brakes) I replaced the flat slot tapered screws that hold the bull pinion bearing cage in, with a recessed hex drive type tapered head. They're only torqued at 15 in. lbs. or so, but it takes a BIG flat screwdriver to get them out. So much easier to re-install. Pretty sure I got mine at Fastenall, but if you don't have one of those close, someone like McMaster-Carr should have them.
 
  
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tman1020

tman1020

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Thanks for the info. Here is a pic that the current owner sent me. I have my work cut out for me tomorrow. We will see if it is worth the trouble. It is frozen to the ground in ruts. *
 
  
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tman1020

tman1020

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Well we got it loaded up and got it home. Was not able to figure out how to get the tractor into neutral
. Had to drag the rear tires up on the trailer. The center shifter seems like it’s in neutral and you can feel it going through the gears but there’s no markings left on the case to say for sure.
Any ideas why the rear tires may not move. I know the brakes are not locked up because they will shift a little bit back-and-forth. Something in the gearbox is definitely not disengaging and it’s probably because I don’t know what I’m doing.
 
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LittleBill21

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View attachment 684873
Well we got it loaded up and got it home. Was not able to figure out how to get the tractor into neutral
. Had to drag the rear tires up on the trailer. The center shifter seems like it’s in neutral and you can feel it going through the gears but there’s no markings left on the case to say for sure.
Any ideas why the rear tires may not move. I know the brakes are not locked up because they will shift a little bit back-and-forth. Something in the gearbox is definitely not disengaging and it’s probably because I don’t know what I’m doing.


i watched a video today, and its valid, what is the temperature? did you check the fluid level? if its completely full of water, the entire transmission can be solid ice.... you may need to heat it and let it melt for it to release, the clutch can and is also prolly frozen.
 
  
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tman1020

tman1020

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i watched a video today, and its valid, what is the temperature? did you check the fluid level? if its completely full of water, the entire transmission can be solid ice.... you may need to heat it and let it melt for it to release, the clutch can and is also prolly frozen.

Yes it’s below freezing here for sure. Didn’t think about that. I’m sure there’s been condensation buildup in there over the years. I can shift the gears through the gear selector so that portion does not seem to be frozen.
I had the back and jacked up and was able to wiggle the tires back-and-forth just a touch from the slop in the differential so I don’t think the brakes are stuck. But something is still definitely engaged or frozen.
I need to find some instructions on how to disengage everything. It says it’s a high and low shuttle shift. So I’m thinking there’s something that I’m not getting into neutral. And I’m not even sure which pedal is the clutch.
 
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Industrial Toys

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That paint scheme seems newer than the 73 model that we considered.
 
   #9  

aczlan

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Per TractorData there should be a plate by the instrument cluster with a serial number:
Serial Numbers:
Location:plate on instrument panel
1960: 6144001
1961: 6162601
1962: 8190001
1963: 8208001
1964: 8229001
1965: 8253501
1966: 8279001
1967: 8306501
1968: 8332101
1969: 8356251

Source: TractorData.com J.I. Case 43 tractor information

Aaron Z
 
   #10  

DJ54

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IH Farmall 656 gas/ IH 240 Utility/ 2, Super C Farmalls/ 2, Farmall A's/ Farmall BN/McCormick-Deering OS-6/McCormick-Deering O-4/ '36 Farmall F-12/ 480 Case hoe. '65 Ford 2000 3 cyl., 4 spd. w/3 spd Aux. Trans
More than likely, water has seeped in around the gear shift lever and has the transmission partially filled with water. With age, the shifter boot gets cracked, and lets water in. It sounds like there's enough in there to be up on the ring gear, and not allowing the differential to turn. Hopefully you have a warm shop, and be able to get it in there. At some point, drop the diffy plug, with a large pan (something like 10 gallons) underneath and let it drain.

Here is a link to more than several manuals for a 530 Case. The 430 and 530 are close enough, they share many similarities. Case 53CK - Manuals This will get you by, until you find the proper manuals for it.

When you get the serial number, you can go to the Case/IH online parts catalogs, and select the model that fall within the serial numbers listed. Search 43 | MyCNHi US Store to familiarize yourself with it, and its function groups

Enlarging the picture, I can see it does have the manual shift reverser/shuttle shift. Word of warning, don't haunch on that lever very hard, and make sure you are completely stopped, before changing directions. The collar that surrounds the shaft, that shifts from forward to reverse, is made out of a cast, pot metal type material, and wear very easily. And, there is a very small spring/roll pin (like 1/16th" 3/32") that holds it on the shaft, that either the hole gets elongated in the softer collar, or will shear. If there is some slop in that shift lever, then one of the above has happened. You'll need to pull that shifter's cover, to see what I mean. Wear points will be evident, once you look at it.

On my 310B, it had been haunched on enough, they broke the shift shaft, and someone did a poor job of welding it back together. I ended up getting another used one that had some wear, but not broken. I drilled the hole out larger, and put a big enough roll pin in it, I could tap a smaller one inside it. Luckily, I found 2 on ebay for $35 ea. Got the second one for a spare, just in case, and let it go with it, when I sold it. But the first one held up for the 2 years I owned it. When as it should be, shifting will be somewhat crisp, and no slop when in either forward, or reverse. Again, just be at a complete stop before changing directions. The #2 reason for having good brakes, to be able to do this.

For as tough as those tractors are, that shift linkage, and the brake seals are the weakest points I could see in that style tractor. As far as the engine, and rest of the drive train, they seem to be near bullet proof, if you operate it responsibly.
 
 
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