Case 480D

[Giles Gurley]

I am new to this forum and this is my first post. I recently purchased a Case 480D Construction King Loader Backhoe. I have posted several questions on other forums with little results. I have not received any manuals so I know very little about this machine. (1) What is the switch on the loader leaver? (2) Is there any way to have decent brakes on this machine? (3) How do I use the transport lock for the backhoe mast? (4) How can I determine my pump pressure? (5) This machine will only lift it rear about one foot off the ground,should the backhoe itself be able to lift the rear of the machine off the ground easily? any help would be appreciated---THANKS---

 

[jmc]

Giles,

Congratulations on your new backhoe. There doesn't seem to be many 480's around. Mine is a 480F so I'll try to answer several questions assuming they are very similiar.

The thumb switch is called a "clutch cutout button" to improve loader performance by disconnecting the transmission from the drive wheels. Since my loader works great without it, I never use it. A professional operator may be more picky.

My brakes are ok but a little grabby. Are yours both adjusted properly?

Engaging the transport lock is a little tricky. Raise the mast as fast as you can and when it is almost all the way up, shove the joystick forward as though you are trying to lower the mast. The mast should keep raising until it locks. To relieve pressure when unlocking, I forget if you push the joystick as though lowering (bassackwards) or pull the JS as though raising. Try both and be careful in case the two models are not the same.

Mine will lift the rear enough to slide the rear sideways with the hoe but I never lifted any higher than to just clear the tires since its tippy. Make sure your loader is not on the ground.

John

 

[Giles Gurley]

Thanks--jmc-- looks like I finally found someone interested in helping. All the information you shared is beneficial and much appreciated. The reason I asked about the lifting is I have seen operators lift the rear off the groung two or more feet and move the machine sideways. I don't necessarly desire to do this but my machine will lift about a foot and will not go any higher. When I release the stick the machine comes down fairly quickly. I suspect the cylinders need rebuilding. I will build all the cylinders eventually. I am working on the electrical system because all that works now is the oil pressure light and the amp meter. I plan to install a mechanical temp. and oil gauge, before I put the machine to work. This backhoe has been stored outside all of it 2260 hours but has decent paint and all the decals. The machine had "O" brakes but I adjusted them to about 3/4 pedal. The brakes will not even slow it down and the pedal is firm. On top of this the hand brake mechanism that mounts on the transaxle is gone?-?-? I am liucky that it has shuttle shift but I want Brakes.-- THANKS for the help!--

 

[Nat]

I had a 480D several years ago and can tell you from experience that it will just barely raise the rear . If the loader bucket is raised it will lift it OK, but with the bucket down mine wouldn't lift it at all. If I remember the 480D has the case 188 diesel, which is a little short on power, but when they changed to the 480F it has the Case/Cummins 4-390. That is the same engine that is in a Dodge dirsel, except minus the 2 front cylinders. HTH later, Nat

 

[rexcramer]

My 580 can lift the rear with the backhoe quite well, and the backhoe should be able to hold the tractor in the air for at least a little while.

Seal kits for the cylinders are cheap and all the cylinders are pretty easy to get to except the boom swing cylinders, so don't be afraid to do the cylinders when the time comes.

As far as the brakes none of these units had great brakes I think, even when new. Trying to stop 10000# with manual brakes is tough. If you have individual brake pedals try each wheel to see if one is worse than the other. When I bought my machine one master cylinder was bone dry, and all I had to do was fill it to get the brake working.

 

[kmdigital]

I believe that that model has the external brakes, so you should be able to remove the very easily. They may be glazed, which can sometimes be remedied by roughing them up with course sandpaper, or just replacing the disks works even better.

Later models, at least with the 580s, starting with the 580K phase III, have internal oil lubricated brakes. Accessing and replacing these requires lifting the cab and removing the axle, not a fun job!

 

[toolaholic]

e bay is selling your manuals

 

[mickyboy]

I am new to this forum and this is my first post. I recently purchased a Case 480D Construction King Loader Backhoe. I have posted several questions on other forums with little results. I have not received any manuals so I know very little about this machine. (1) What is the switch on the loader leaver? (2) Is there any way to have decent brakes on this machine? (3) How do I use the transport lock for the backhoe mast? (4) How can I determine my pump pressure? (5) This machine will only lift it rear about one foot off the ground,should the backhoe itself be able to lift the rear of the machine off the ground easily? any help would be appreciated---THANKS---

i operate a case 480 every day, the 1 i operate is in a garden supplies an its a 7 day a week loader, your answer to the brakes could be wheels cylinders, master cylinder, atm out LH wheel cylinder is leaking brakes 4 spongy because of this, you do not have to take cabin off though you can just unbolt the floor to make it easier, or master cylinder is under the dash so if there is fluid leaking on to floor in side cab could be your problem, cheers

 

[suntrana45]

I have two master cylinders located under the dash, one for left brake, one for right, found it easier to first remove access panel on top left of dash(two screws) and then remove the instrument cluster (four screws), then if fluid is needed use funnel with flexible tubing. By the way DO NOT US BRAKE FLUID.. Use Case TCH fluid or DEXTRON 2 Automatic transmission fluid. Removing the cab floor definitely makes things easier, you can access the bleed screws from the top, they are located on each side at rear of brake assy, right under main bracket that has return spring attached and directly between the two holes at rear of bracket.