Case 580D fixes needed

[baldrick56]

Hi all,

since my (very secondhand but new to me) Case 580D has made landfall a couple of weeks back its just sat in the paddock whilst I attempt to find out what needs fixing and in what order of priority, so far I have found:

Brakes don't work {pedals sink to floor};
Parking Brake missing {no lever or mounting};
Hydraulic oil leak from valve block under backhoe operating lever panel;
Some flexible hydraulic hoses need renewing {cracked outer sleeving / corroded armouring etc};
Broken greasing point front 4:1 bucket {now replaced};
blocked greasing point, backhoe dipper to bucketlink pin;
Oil leak from rear axle LHS {oil over inside wheelhub & inside of rear tyre};
missing wheelbolt LHS;
missing baseplate to stabiliser LHS;
missing bushes for bucket (300mm);
missing retaining clips for bucket pins;
holes in GRP roof over ROPS canopy;
Seat worn out & frame broken;
Front clam section to 4:1 dented & split;
Rust hole in 600mm bucket;
Tyres (especially rears) worn;

As of yesterday shopping on the net has yielded me two secondhand master cyls, two wheel cyl rebuild kits, a secondhand handbrake lever and mounting, plus an assortment of new filters. In the meantime I've been attempting to unblock & grease all the pins - mostly done with one that wont take grease, though the kingpins were really tough to get any grease into. I guess the front axle really needs to be unloaded to let the grease successfully flow? plus working steering side-to-side? Decided that my 'car' axle stands (two tonnes the pair) not really up to the task of supporting half a digger so got an eight tonne pair on order. Looking at the hoses I'm guessing the best option would be one of the mobile service vans {"hose doctor" and the like} to come and replace?

The rear axle seals confuse me a bit - inner, outer & 'O' ring. is it necessary to split the axle casing off the diff section to fit the inner seal? might I get away with just the outers as that's where the oil is leaking from?

The brakes need to me my top priority as the block of land is super-steep with the occasional cliff-edge at the bottom of some of the slopes. The crumpled clamsection of the front bucket is legacy of the previous owners experience when engine stalled, everything stopped working, and only a large tree halted ever-increasing downhill progress.

Thanks,

Rob

 

[DJ54]

I bought all of my new brake parts here. Remanufactured Transmissions, Torque Converters, Engines - Joseph Industries But I have noidea if they ship internationally. With that being said, towards the bottom of the main page, there is an icon to translate the page in different languages, so I'll just assume they do. The master cylinder I got were of high quality, although imported. They've been on my 480C for nearly 10 years now, and still work as they should.

I'm not sure what year they changed the fluid used in the brake system, but newer model used hydrauilc oil. Guessing an operator's manual would have that info in it. I had to make new brake lines for my 480C, and bought a kit to make the inverted flare fittings. I used the Ni-Copp type line. They also have lasted as they should. I had to replace both flex lines where they attach to the wheel cylinders. I found that that same part is used in some Case/IH Agriculture tractors, and is 10% less the an ag. dealer.

I went to Case Construction and checked the disc brake assy. It appears to be the same. as on my 480C. so, check around the disc brake housing,looking for oil seepage. If there is, it's more than likely the seal is out of the bull pinion shaft. This will cause the brake disc's to become oil soaked, and poor braking. Brake disc's can be salvaged by litterally boiling the oil out of them with a small propane torch. I hung mine on a steel rod out in the open, and heated until the oil literally dripped out of them. Final cleanup with brake cleaning solvent, roughed the surface a bit, and re-installed, and slid the wheels when brakes were applied. Even though the surfacesare bonded, they will take the heat, of boiling the heat out.

Seal replacement requires removing the brake housing, and the bull pinion bearing retaining plate. Only do one side at a time, or it will let internals drop. When replacing the bearing cage with new seal, wrap the splined shaft with electrical tape, starting at the inside, just outside where the seal rides on the smooth surface. Start inwards, and wrap outwards. Arepair manual will state to use thin shim stock over the splines, to prevent inverting the lip on the seal. Tape wrapped like that wil do the same. Wrapped that way,the seal lip jumps over the edges of the tape, and will not catch. Wrapout past thesplined shaft, leaving a 1",or so tail. When housing is in place, grab the tape by the tail, and pull. It will spiral right off.

The bull pinion bearing cage on my 310B was held in place by large Phillips type head, tapered screws. I replaced them with a hex type drive screw, from a local source. They are torqued at a very low, like 15 in./lbs.

Be sure to check the springs, expander balls, etc. in the brake mechanism. All, as far as I know are still available. At the time, I know Joseph Industries carried them. If you have a parts manual, the part number is the best way to find any part for your machine. Enter the part number is a good search engine, and shop until you drop. I've had the best results using Google.

As far as the hydraulic hoses, a set of crow foot type wrenches to remove, and install are great. I had some cheap import set's of combination wrenches, so cut them to work in the tight space under the hydraulic tower. Whatever works best for you. I'm fortunate enough to have a local hydraulic shop that makes hoses. I remove hoses, and tagged hoses, and connection points so I knew what went where.

If you don't have a parts manual for your machine, this may help. Follow this link to Case Construction,Case construction king loader backhoe: | Case CE | MyCNHi US Store I already have it set to the 580D. Since Case Construction, and Case/IH Ag. revamped their parts pages, it's not what it was just a few months ago. Parts that are not available through them anymore, the part numbers have been deleted, left out of the list. Personally, I've started looking for hard copies of parts manuals for what tractors I have. Re-print manuals havesomething to be desired, as some of the photocopy's arent' the best, and part numbers hard to read.

 

[DJ54]

I missed the part about pins taking grease. Remove zerk, and clean as well as possible. Put liquid penetrate in the hole, install zerk,then apply grease. You may have to hold pressure on the handle, for a bit,but you should eventually feel the gun pushing the fluid through, followed by the grease. For horizontal holes, such as the king pins, make a half dam with a bit of grease on your finger, to hold the liquid penetrate in. Spray inpenetrate, insert zerk, and put the grease to it. A pretty basic grease gun will put out 10,000 - 12,000 psi, and normally will push liquids fairly easy through places like that. I've had 99% success using this method. The only place it didn't work, was where the bushing grease hole spun away from the port.

Hope this helps a little bit...

 

[baldrick56]

Thanks DJ54 - some very comprehensive info there to guide me through the mysteries

Regards, Rob