Case d530 ck issues repost

[veedubyuh]

I posted this in a random section not really suited to case itself but here goes.
Good day all, first time posting...long time reader.
I bought a 1964 case d530ck w/ model 32 loader and backhoe.Besides having to rebuild a couple of hydraulic seals, a new serpentine belt..the things worked like a charm! Well today it started having some issue and I'd like to fix them before something costs me more down the road.

Started earlier when it stalled on me when pushing some logs into the woods. And I figured it was due to a bucket load vs rpm situation. So I just hopped off for a bit and got back on a little later and it started up. Cool no problem. Drove it and worked it for about an hour then it sounded like it was knocking at higher rpms. I turned it off...left it to cool off. I tried to start it to get it on a level surface and started it and sounded like metal scraping. I shut it off immediately. I pulled the valve cover, and saw a silver/gray tint to the oil.. FML.

Now, with that being said..the rocker arms, and valves appear to be functional and working when I bumped the motor with the valve cover off. I took the exhaust manifold off to see if I could visually look into the combustion chamber to see if I could see anything visible. Nothing yet. I think a piece of metal has broke off and was sent thru the motor. I have the original manuals for the thing so I have insight. My questions and concerns are..

1) what could have broken or spun off if it's not valve related?

2) if I have to pull the head, do I need to worry about timing? Or is timing gonna be more related to pulling the crank out,injection pump, etc (lower half)

3) I replaced the serpentine belt(old belt was basically threads left and loosened up enough to allow the generator cooling fan blades to shear off after hitting the interior of frame) and I know tension is a thing, but is it super important in regards to rpm under load, idle speed, etc? Thanks a lot for the insight.

-george

 

[DJ54]

I'm going to take a wild guess, and say it sounds like the engine spun either a rod, or main bearing. The metallic residue you're seeing in the oil, is more than likely the babbitt coating off said bearings. You'll need to drain the oil, and remove the oil pan, and have a look see. Running the engine long enough to go from knocking, to metal scraping, it shouldn't be hard to find. You'll more than likely see metal shavings in the oil when you drain it. It may even possible, the crankshaft has broken in one of the main journals.

That being said, I wouldn't be surprised that the cranshaft is toast either way, but could be wrong. Being that old, and if the engine has never been touched internally, it probably had a good bit of wear anyway, but enough it could have probably been turned, and fresh oversized bearing put in, if not broken. If it piggybacked a bearing, it's more than likely gouged it bad enough, it's beyond turning/cleaning up.

If that is the case, it shouldn't be too hard to find a remanfactured crankshaft w/bearings. Probably best to take it to a machine shop, and have them check the block, and connecting rods, if it was a rod bearing. Beyond that, a full engine overhaul is probably in order.

That is probably the worst case scenario. If that would be the case, now it'd be up to you to decide if it's worth it, or find a better machine. An complete engine OH would be a lot less expensive than another machine, and you know what you've got when it's done.

 

[veedubyuh]

DJ I appreciate your thoughts. I'm gonna pull the pan when I get home and check the oil and crank assembly out. I was able to bump the motor with the valve cover off to watch the valves and rocker arms. And all appear to be moving properly without a knock or metallic sound.. but looking around the rocker and valves..I can feel that something was being pushed around cause some rocker bracket bolts have slight gouging. Also found 2 metal shavings laying in the valve cover.. i personally feel its head related,, and not bottom end related..but ive never worked on a machine like this.and this is the oldest motor I've worked on.Anyways I've seen a few overhaul kits for the thing ranging from 650 to 750, which is worth rebuilding as opposed to buying another machine lol. Do you recommend any reliable places to buy the parts from? Also anywhere to possibly buy hydro cylinders for these? I don't care about manufacturer.

I tried to pull an injector yesterday and holy hell are those things stuck like chuck. I stopped trying cause I was afraid of snapping something. Thanks again, I'm 35 and played on these as a child that my grandfather owned. This is my toy and I'm not rushing it, eventually it'll look like it came off the showroom floor..but that's gonna take years.

 

[DJ54]

Hopefully you're right. Just trying to diagnose from writings and description, rather than hearing it is tough to make a call.

Anymore, don't have a clue about buying parts. It's been 20 years since I've done a major OH on anything. Maybe someone else will chime in on that.

As far as cylinders, check around for a decent hydraulic shop that rebuilds cylinders. I had a bucket cylinder done on my 480C Case, and fortunate at that time to have a very good shop 25 miles away. Seal kit through Case Construction was $35 at the time. They did the job for $75, includng labor. I didn't have the tool to remove the end of the cylinder, let alone torque it to somewhere in the neighborhood of 400 ft.lbs. Yeah, could have used a pipe wrench, and cheater, just seemed worth it to have them do it, plus, a 30, or 90 day warranty. Been so long now I forget. That was 8-9 years ago, and it's still not leaking..!!