Case IH 8420 Round Baler--modifying

[jgh]

20051128

Has anyone owned one of these on here? If so did yours have electric tie and/or any other bells and whistles? I'd like to add Electric tie and perhaps netwrap to the used one I just agreed to buy and wondered if any of that is practical after the fact?

Case 8420 and more

Hey, thanks as always for the advice to come,

Jim

 

[MFMan]

The electric threader kit (#MKD51065) is availble from any Massey Ferguson dealer as the baler you have is identical to the MF 1734 (built in Hesston, KS). The kit lists for $658.00. Net wrap is not an option for this unit.

To find your closest MF dealer just go to www.masseyferguson.com and type in your zip code.

Hope that helps.

 

[jgh]

20051128

Thanks on the cross ref to MF. Still trying to locate service info, and ebay shows nothing for either the Case 8420 or the MF 1734. Would you know the Hesston # as well /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif?

To me it resembles newer JD balers as well. Are they based on the Hesston design? Modern NH balers look very different, and of course Case sells those rebadged now.

I think I will try it out for a while b4 deciding to spend the cash. If it turns out I need to do a bunch of round baling, may need to buy something bigger and more modern. This is an experiment more than anything.

J

 

[MFMan]

I would suggest that you contact a dealer for the kit rather than Ebay, since it is unlikely you'll find one anywhere else. The dealer can also make a service manual availble as well. Keep in mind that the price I gave you is list and you may be able to shave a little off of that.

The basis for all vertical and variable chamber balers including older CaseIH models, Hesston, New Idea, Massey Ferguson and yes, even John Deere is patented by Hesston. In fact, Deere paid (and may still) Hesston a royalty for every round baler they produced using that design. New Holland has their own "roll belt" design that is now the CaseIH offering as well.

Hope that helps.

 

[art]

They are a good base baler with not much for bells and whistles and can be operated with 40 horsepower. Bigger segment of the market is in the 1200lb round baler or 1000lb same as the 8420 was rated at 700 it is more normal to build a 600 lb bale. You have to go very slow to max the pounds on a round baler.

 

[HammerFour]

The Hesston model number is 730 I believe.

 

[jgh]

20051201

Thanks for the info. Still trying to contact the guy I made the deal with to make a time to meet him and pay and pickup. I'm a little concerned he might have sold it to someone else.

On the suggestion that I might be able to save $ on adding electric tie, pls suggest a dealer that will sell it cheaper, since most around here (and Messick our member) all sell parts pretty much at list. Who wants to open the floodgates /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif?

Of course if electric tie constitutes what the sales folks call "whole goods" then pricing is at the salesman's discretion since it is then out of the realm of vaunted "Parts Counter" (and the PMgrs profit arrangement) and its minions :-} [can't seem to get the "evil grin" face! Shucks!]

J

ps--btw I had not thought to try Ebay for the Elec tie kit, only for the manuals; I have had pretty good luck finding manuals on ebay so far, and the NH "Document control center fills in the gaps (including a service manual for my TN90f, $425 ouch!).

 

[Charolais]

I have an 8430 CIH with electric tie. Just thought I'd mention that the actuator has slip clutches for extend and retract end of stroke. So if you buy other than what's designed for the baler you might want to make sure it has the clutches. If it doesn't the motor won't last long. The clutches are there for operator error.

 

[jgh]

20051203

Operetor Errrrorr, heck, I'm so unfamiliar with it I can't spell it. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

Still not sure if the guy has sold the stuff to someone else, not returning my calls to set up payment and pick up. Dealer stands ready to help so this is turning confusing.

J

 

[jgh]

20060115

Oh boy now the fun starts!

Dealer picked up the machine after I finalized the deal and took it directly to his shop.

The attachment is that Case dealer's est for repairing the 8420. Apparently the guy had let the maintenance slip a little!

The $216 for pickup (including the NH bale 1002 wagon) and the $235 for inspecting and diagnosing are "sunk" but what I do with the rest is optional. There may be a winter discount that has not been reflected but the $ still gets my "attention". The baler is about 6 years old, wondering how far I should go.

Note: per Leinbach in Winston-Salem, I can buy ready to use custom belts for just under $500, to completely replace the old ones that apparently are near needing replacement per a conversation with the Service Mgr, anyway. His re-lacing is probably to save money, but need to ask for more info.

Love those "shop supplies" type items. I've always wondered if beer is a supply item/forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif !

[kidding!!]

Penny for your thoughts!

Jim

 

[Charolais]

Unless those belts are dry rotted or been punctured by sticks or what not,they should last a long time. I guess it depends on how many bales has been through it too. I had a Hesston the same size as what you're buying. I never put new belts on it.(bought it used and ran it 10 years/about 600 bales per year) But did have to take them off and cut to the length that the mfg. suggested every 3 years. If they get stretched much over 2 in. the bales get sloppy. The 8430 I have now has the 3 ply 7 in. wide Chevron belts. It's 11 years old now and I'm thinking about pulling a belt to check the length before spring. I'm sure they're longer than spec. now. But the belts are in great shape. I keep it out of the sun when stored. Sun light will ruin baler belts if they're left outside year round.

One more thing. At the end of each day you bale or when in winter storage, always release the tension off the belts. They last much longer if that is done.

I'd take a good look at those belts before I bought new ones. Even if the clipper lace is starting to come out they can be relaced. If you go with relacing ask them to use the keeper clip on the cat gut/belt pin when installing the belts. It will protect the lace better.

 

[rambler]

That's a lot of labor, I'd be inclined to pay for the parts & take it all home, do my own repairs...... Hay season is a ways away, should be time to get it done.

--->Paul

 

[HammerFour]

I would have to wonder how much stuff they would want to do if you brought it in just after it was maintained by another dealer ( without telling them first of course ).

Not to bad mouth your dealer, but keep in mind that the service department is there to make a profit, not just to fix your equipment and be your friendly mechanic.

Personally, I would replace the teeth, check the length of the belts and adjust and relace them myself if needed and then check the bearings for heat after operating it for a bit before I just let the dealer loose to do everything they can think it needs to make it 'field ready'.
As was mentioned above, that is a lot of labor for the amount of parts being put on, granted round balers are labor intensive when taking belts off and on, etc....but 1700 dollars worth for work not even including any major repairs? What, do they think you are made of money?

/forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[Charolais]

I make all my repairs here. Buy most of the parts from Shoup. Just didn't know if the gentleman did his own repairs or now.

I pulled one belt off my baler today. It was 1/2 in. over . Not enough for me to cut and replace the lace. I will order new pins/cable and the keepers and replace the old ones. I saw that two of the keepers were gone. Not bad for 10 years. Belts are in great shape. They might just out last me. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

 

[jgh]

20060203

Hey, folks, was off list for a while. Thanks for those replies. I'm gonna go there and look at it to get them to go over everything with me, for my $225 diagnostic fee, at least. I'll try to eval what I can and cannot do myself. I also want electric tie, but that would be a lot on top of this.

Will get back with you when I learn more.

Thanks again,

Jim