CC fix for 60" belly mowers/decks
- Thread starter PA hayseed
- Start date
- Views: 5444
OhioGuy
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Jul 23, 2003
- Messages
- 595
- Location
- Northeast Ohio
- Tractor
- Ford 1220, Case 245, Cub SZ60, Cub 2284
Graybeard,
Sorry about that, I was lookin to take that deck off PAhayseeds hands! I have the same deck could use the casters replaced, 6x3 solid rubber on a plastic or it might be a steel hub. $60 EACH from Cub by the time you pay shipping. I have a slight bend in a caster fork, $60 from Cub by the time you pay shipping. Just last week, the finger guard that runs across bottom of the discharge opening on the deck cracked, you guessed it, about $60 from Cub after taxes and shipping, so I'm already up to $240.
I searched the web for an hour lookin for replacement wheels, I found a lot that were close, similar quality for 10 or 12 dollars, I just hate price gouging on parts.
But unlike Hayseed, my deck has performed really well, so I thought I'd reward it with some shiny new parts. On the fork, I think it's a matter of time before I break one, either front wheel will occasionally turn sideways and catch on the driveway when I'm crossing it, doesn't raise quite high enough. So a spare would get used, eventually.
And where it's going to break, I could reweld, but I could throw the spare on so much quicker.
Curt
Sorry about that, I was lookin to take that deck off PAhayseeds hands! I have the same deck could use the casters replaced, 6x3 solid rubber on a plastic or it might be a steel hub. $60 EACH from Cub by the time you pay shipping. I have a slight bend in a caster fork, $60 from Cub by the time you pay shipping. Just last week, the finger guard that runs across bottom of the discharge opening on the deck cracked, you guessed it, about $60 from Cub after taxes and shipping, so I'm already up to $240.
I searched the web for an hour lookin for replacement wheels, I found a lot that were close, similar quality for 10 or 12 dollars, I just hate price gouging on parts.
But unlike Hayseed, my deck has performed really well, so I thought I'd reward it with some shiny new parts. On the fork, I think it's a matter of time before I break one, either front wheel will occasionally turn sideways and catch on the driveway when I'm crossing it, doesn't raise quite high enough. So a spare would get used, eventually.
And where it's going to break, I could reweld, but I could throw the spare on so much quicker.
Curt
OhioGuy
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Jul 23, 2003
- Messages
- 595
- Location
- Northeast Ohio
- Tractor
- Ford 1220, Case 245, Cub SZ60, Cub 2284
OhioGuy said:
Let me amend that quote, after three laps around the Cub website I was unable to keep the finger guard in my cart to get a price, but I was at $179 and change for two wheels and a fork and the shipping and tax were not included, I repeat, LAME website....
Curt
PA Hayseed,
I bought one of the first cub 5000 in spring 2004. After 3 belts shredded I found out through this website about the idler pulley that has to be added between the two end pulleys. There were a couple washer spacers that had to be added also. Since I installed the kit I have had no problems with throwing belts. The kit can be had from any CC dealer and is easy enough to do yourself.
I bought one of the first cub 5000 in spring 2004. After 3 belts shredded I found out through this website about the idler pulley that has to be added between the two end pulleys. There were a couple washer spacers that had to be added also. Since I installed the kit I have had no problems with throwing belts. The kit can be had from any CC dealer and is easy enough to do yourself.
OP
PA hayseed
Platinum Member
Well, well, well, I guess I have to eat a little crow. CC replaced my belly mower (MMM) and lift system with a 60" 3pt rear discharge mower. My MMM was about 2 years old with about 100hrs on it, and I didn't have to pay a cent.
Thank you for making this right CC, or maybe it was just my dealer, I am not sure.
Since I was having problems, and getting everything changed over, they also replaced three seals for me that were leaking free of charge. They did charge me for new Hydro filters and oil filters, but who wouldn't. I figured if they had it in for all that stuff, might as well do it all at one time.
That rear discharge mower is great. I hardly even hear it running. I kept checking behind me to see if it was still cutting. After that MMM's noise, I forgot how quiet things could be while on the tractor.
When they do bad I complain, when they do good I should mention it too.
Thank you for making this right CC, or maybe it was just my dealer, I am not sure.
Since I was having problems, and getting everything changed over, they also replaced three seals for me that were leaking free of charge. They did charge me for new Hydro filters and oil filters, but who wouldn't. I figured if they had it in for all that stuff, might as well do it all at one time.
That rear discharge mower is great. I hardly even hear it running. I kept checking behind me to see if it was still cutting. After that MMM's noise, I forgot how quiet things could be while on the tractor.
When they do bad I complain, when they do good I should mention it too.
OhioGuy
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Jul 23, 2003
- Messages
- 595
- Location
- Northeast Ohio
- Tractor
- Ford 1220, Case 245, Cub SZ60, Cub 2284
Everbody loves a happy ending! Glad to hear that all worked out. I agree also on the praise when they do ya right. I've got a good dealership locally, we've had some problems but all in all, they make an effort to get it right.
Happy mowing!
Curt
Happy mowing!
Curt
OP
PA hayseed
Platinum Member
It took me 9.5 hours to get my grass back almost to where it was. And that doesn't include the hand cutting that has to be done around the house and garage, or any weed wacking.
Let me tell ya that I couldn't wait to get off the tractor, ground was hard as a brick.
Let me tell ya that I couldn't wait to get off the tractor, ground was hard as a brick.
Do you like the 3pt mower as much as the belly mower? Is it more difficult to manuever with it? I've considered changing to a rear finish mower just to simplify the deck removal process. Whenever I use the loader or tiller the MMM just gets in the way so I have to take it off, and thats a pain.
OP
PA hayseed
Platinum Member
Well, I guess it would depend on your application and needs. I am not an expert by any stretch, so I will give you my opinion only.
1. I have about 8 acres to cut, of which 6.5 is open field with very minimal obstacles. I have a few pine trees out in the field, but not many.
2. Around the house, garage, driveway, and my kids playground it gets a little tight, with the minimum clearance between obstacles (trees, benches, buildings, timbers) is about 6-7 feet.
3. my ground is relatively flat, especially for the mountains in PA
For those reasons listed, and using it for a total of approximately 14 hours so far, I would say I love it. Here are the reasons
1. The noise factor was reduced substantially. My previous MMM or bellymower made alot of noise. I only hear the RFM banging from bumps. At first I kept looking behind me to make sure it was cutting.
2. I can detach it easily, and I don't have to worry about my MMM getting in the way ever again. When I would get lazy, which seemed to be more often then not, I wouldn't remove the MMM when I was doing FEL work. Now my tractor wasn't a monster, but the MMM would get in the way all the time. On several occasions I had to remove it, including all winter due to it getting caught in snow.
3. I can back it into areas that I could never get my MMM to cut. Saves me some weed wacking time, but I will describe the offset of this later. This is especially useful for under trees that are high enough to cut under, but not high enough to ride under.
Here are the cons (for me):
1. It doesn't cut as close as the mmm would. I could maneuver the tractor around to get within about 2-3 inches of obstacles, then come back and clean things up with the weed wacker. It also is slightly more difficult to maneuver, by which I mean that when I turn around with the tractor I have to take into account that the RFM will swing out behind the tractor for the entire turn. Since it is in a fixed position, a turn creates an arc of mvement, which is difficult to describe. I attempted several times to get the RFM closer to the obstacle (e.g. the 8x8 creosote timbers by my daughters playground), but found that I couldn't get as close as the MMM. This may be newbie driving, or it may be the equipment.
2. When you cut by any ruts or ditches, you have to be careful that the RFM wheels stay on grade and don't slip over. If they do, you kind of saddle bag the RFM, and the weight kind of throws the rear end over a bit.
3. The RFM is behind you as you cut, so you are constantly looking backwards while driving forward to see if it cutting where you want it to. I know some will think I look tooo much, but I get rather obsessive about grass cutting.
Hope I gave you some info in this rambling dissertation. My only regret is that it is 5' instead of 6', for the open field only.
1. I have about 8 acres to cut, of which 6.5 is open field with very minimal obstacles. I have a few pine trees out in the field, but not many.
2. Around the house, garage, driveway, and my kids playground it gets a little tight, with the minimum clearance between obstacles (trees, benches, buildings, timbers) is about 6-7 feet.
3. my ground is relatively flat, especially for the mountains in PA
For those reasons listed, and using it for a total of approximately 14 hours so far, I would say I love it. Here are the reasons
1. The noise factor was reduced substantially. My previous MMM or bellymower made alot of noise. I only hear the RFM banging from bumps. At first I kept looking behind me to make sure it was cutting.
2. I can detach it easily, and I don't have to worry about my MMM getting in the way ever again. When I would get lazy, which seemed to be more often then not, I wouldn't remove the MMM when I was doing FEL work. Now my tractor wasn't a monster, but the MMM would get in the way all the time. On several occasions I had to remove it, including all winter due to it getting caught in snow.
3. I can back it into areas that I could never get my MMM to cut. Saves me some weed wacking time, but I will describe the offset of this later. This is especially useful for under trees that are high enough to cut under, but not high enough to ride under.
Here are the cons (for me):
1. It doesn't cut as close as the mmm would. I could maneuver the tractor around to get within about 2-3 inches of obstacles, then come back and clean things up with the weed wacker. It also is slightly more difficult to maneuver, by which I mean that when I turn around with the tractor I have to take into account that the RFM will swing out behind the tractor for the entire turn. Since it is in a fixed position, a turn creates an arc of mvement, which is difficult to describe. I attempted several times to get the RFM closer to the obstacle (e.g. the 8x8 creosote timbers by my daughters playground), but found that I couldn't get as close as the MMM. This may be newbie driving, or it may be the equipment.
2. When you cut by any ruts or ditches, you have to be careful that the RFM wheels stay on grade and don't slip over. If they do, you kind of saddle bag the RFM, and the weight kind of throws the rear end over a bit.
3. The RFM is behind you as you cut, so you are constantly looking backwards while driving forward to see if it cutting where you want it to. I know some will think I look tooo much, but I get rather obsessive about grass cutting.
Hope I gave you some info in this rambling dissertation. My only regret is that it is 5' instead of 6', for the open field only.
Sounds like I should probably stay with the MMM. My needs are less, more like 4 acres of "yard" but I do have a lot of trees shrubs to manuever around. Like you said, removing the MMM is a pain when you want to use the loader. That was my main reason for considering the 3pt mower.
