CCM Hydraulic Top link won't travel in both directions

horsinaround · Jul 30, 2011

kennyd said:
Is this a factory rear remote or aftermarket? It almost sounds like the valve has regen...

Yes, a factory remote.

powerstroke444e · Jul 31, 2011

Have you used anything else on the remote? If not are you sure you are cycling it all they way? I have seen these get rusty from not being used and hard to move in one direction or the other.

SSdoxie · Jul 31, 2011

Tyr MtnView's suggestion of swithcing the female couplers on the tractor and see if problem stays in same cylinder direction or changes. I had a similar troubleshooting call several months ago. Boom cylinder would only move 1 direction and load engine the opposite. The poppet in on female couple had gotten cock to the side and only allowed oil going out, would not allow retrun oil.

MHarryE · Jul 31, 2011

I was the customer of MtnViewRanch who had a problem. After installing the kit, the top link would only extend and the tilt would only retract. I tried switching remotes i.e. changed the top line from circuit 1 to circuit 2 and tilt from circuit 2 to circuit 1 with no change. I swapped the hoses so the extend direction was retract position and still no luck. I took the couplers off the hose and drained part of the oil out of the hoses to make sure I was back to zero pressure when I connected and still no luck. The next morning I called my Kubota dealer who reminded me that they always put a set of male couplings in a bag in the tool box when they deliver a tractor so I swapped the ones supplied with the kit with these having the Pioneer stamp on them and my problem was solved. I got out my calipers and to the nearest 0.001" (within caliper accuracy) the couplers were identical. The only difference I could tell is the spring pressure on the check ball of the couplers supplied with the kit was much higher than that of the Pioneer couplers. Neither MtnViewRanch nor I could understand why that would cause such a problem but could SSdoxie have shed some light on the problem? He talks about the poppet in the female side getting cocked to the side but this sure seems odd. If the problem was caused by a cocked poppet, the higher spring pressure would more likely to cause the problem as improbable as it might seem. Both you and I have L5740s - Gremlins???

horsinaround · Jul 31, 2011

I took a coupler and put it on a hose. Put the coupler in one remote and put the open end of the hose in a bucket. Oil came out when the remote was pushed in the correct direction.

I then put the coupler in the other remote and pushed the lever in the other direction. No no oil came out and the tractor grunted. This tells me it has to be something on the tractor end. The remote that doesn't put out oil does let it return through.

I also tried the males that came with the tractor and the same thing happened. Will have to call the dealer tomorrow I guess.

MtnViewRanch · Jul 31, 2011

Although this has been frustrating, it looks like it will be an easy fix with the installation of a new female connector.

JerryG · Jul 31, 2011

To see if it is the couplers do this. With nothing connected to either female on the tractor, move the control lever each way. If the hose gets stiff when you move the lever you have flow to that hose. Then try it with the other hose like the first.

horsinaround · Jul 31, 2011

MtnViewRanch said:
Although this has been frustrating, it looks like it will be an easy fix with the installation of a new female connector.

What makes you say it is the female connector and not something internal with the valve?
That would be nice.

MtnViewRanch · Jul 31, 2011

horsinaround said:
What makes you say it is the female connector and not something internal with the valve?
That would be nice.

Usually a valve may leak, but it won't actually stop flow. After the testing that you have done, I'm thinking that it is the female connector. If you were to swap the female ends around as I had suggested, you would be certain if it was the valve or the connector. It just makes more sense to me that it is the female quick disconnect end. If your valve has hoses to the QD's instead of metal lines, then the test that JerryG suggested would work also, but I'm thinking that the OEM lines are steel.

Just my :2cents:

Good luck