J_J
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Sep 6, 2003
- Messages
- 18,952
- Location
- JACKSONVILLE, FL
- Tractor
- Power-Trac 1445, KUBOTA B-9200HST
Slowmandown,
Te web site listed below, are the ones that supply kits for the CAD plans. They sell the pins in different lengths, and they are 63/64. They also have the bushings/tubing that the pins fit into. You might warp some of them while welding, so get yourself a good 1 in reamer, and touch up every bushing. Remember to bore holes for the grease fittings.
You can get the valves from Ebay, Surplus Hydraulics, Baileynet.com, and Metkit,com , plus some others. I modified the 4 X 4 sections somewhat for more reach. I also adapted the M600 to fit the lift arms on my PT-1445. You can see it mounted in one of the pictures, and the out riggers are installed. I also have three buckets that I can use. I built one of the buckets that Metkit offers. To bend the backside of the bucket, you can support the long part edges on something like a 2 x 4 and drive your car/truck over the center, then place it on some 4 x 4, and drive over it again. Once you have a bend started, weld the back end down, and then put a chain around the bent piece of metal, put a hydraulic porta ram on the chain and tighten it down as necessary to press/pull it into the shape of the bucket. Tack it as you tighten up. Heat on the backside will help the bending also. If you are not secure with your welding, take the bucket and all parts to a good welder, and let him do it for you. Be sure to get a firm dollar amount on the welding.
On boring out the holes for the bushings/tubing, you probably have read about some of us using the bi-metal hole-saw bits. They work pretty good if you keep them cool with water air, or cutting fluid, with a slow speed on the drill press. They make carbide hole-saw bits also, and they cut really nice. When you make your pilot holes in the 4 x 4, drill through both sides without moving the 4 x 4. Then bore the large hole, turn it over and bore the other hole. Right before you start to tack things together, take the cylinder bushings, hydraulic cylinder and put everything together, and lay it up to check alignment, fore and aft, and side to side, the check fitness, If things look good, start tacking. things together.
Since you are building the whole thing with engine, etc, they should have suggested a mount and pump size. The reservoir is usually sized to the GPM of the pump. 5 gal pump, 5 gal reservoir , use a ten micron filter.
With the engine running at 3600 rpm, pumping 4 GPM, it will take a pump of .3 cuin, at 3000 psi and will take about 8 HP to drive it.
Te web site listed below, are the ones that supply kits for the CAD plans. They sell the pins in different lengths, and they are 63/64. They also have the bushings/tubing that the pins fit into. You might warp some of them while welding, so get yourself a good 1 in reamer, and touch up every bushing. Remember to bore holes for the grease fittings.
You can get the valves from Ebay, Surplus Hydraulics, Baileynet.com, and Metkit,com , plus some others. I modified the 4 X 4 sections somewhat for more reach. I also adapted the M600 to fit the lift arms on my PT-1445. You can see it mounted in one of the pictures, and the out riggers are installed. I also have three buckets that I can use. I built one of the buckets that Metkit offers. To bend the backside of the bucket, you can support the long part edges on something like a 2 x 4 and drive your car/truck over the center, then place it on some 4 x 4, and drive over it again. Once you have a bend started, weld the back end down, and then put a chain around the bent piece of metal, put a hydraulic porta ram on the chain and tighten it down as necessary to press/pull it into the shape of the bucket. Tack it as you tighten up. Heat on the backside will help the bending also. If you are not secure with your welding, take the bucket and all parts to a good welder, and let him do it for you. Be sure to get a firm dollar amount on the welding.
On boring out the holes for the bushings/tubing, you probably have read about some of us using the bi-metal hole-saw bits. They work pretty good if you keep them cool with water air, or cutting fluid, with a slow speed on the drill press. They make carbide hole-saw bits also, and they cut really nice. When you make your pilot holes in the 4 x 4, drill through both sides without moving the 4 x 4. Then bore the large hole, turn it over and bore the other hole. Right before you start to tack things together, take the cylinder bushings, hydraulic cylinder and put everything together, and lay it up to check alignment, fore and aft, and side to side, the check fitness, If things look good, start tacking. things together.
Since you are building the whole thing with engine, etc, they should have suggested a mount and pump size. The reservoir is usually sized to the GPM of the pump. 5 gal pump, 5 gal reservoir , use a ten micron filter.
With the engine running at 3600 rpm, pumping 4 GPM, it will take a pump of .3 cuin, at 3000 psi and will take about 8 HP to drive it.