Cement Board

MarkV · Apr 2, 2002

do you just use joint compound and mesh where 2 pieces of Hardiboard meet?

Just use some of the mesh tape and skim it with Mastic. That will work just fine and you don't need to wait for it to dry.

Drop me a note if any other questions come up.

MarkV

MikePA · Jul 7, 2002

Well, I've finally got the drywall installed. Yes, it's been a long time. I'll spare everyone an explanation. My wife doesn't even believe the reasons. /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif

With only the 1/2" drywall installed, the tile will stand about 1/4" proud of the adjacent surface. Actually, there's only 3 places where the tile will touch these adjacent surfaces, probably no more than 6" total. So, I am probably not going to install the cement board and just put the tile on the drywall. Does the drywall need to be primed? Or do I just need to finish the joints and install the tile?

beenthere · Jul 7, 2002

Thirty five years ago I put ceramic tile on drywall (didn't have a choice then) in a shower. It is still there and doing fine. Have had to keep touching up the joints, but all is good. I did not prime the drywall, but put the mud on and then the tile. Hope this helps. There may be better ways to do it, but 35 years service is not too shabby.

MikePA · Jan 3, 2004

Attached is a picture of the area to be tiled 
Well, just like giving elephants giving birth /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif, way too many months later (just ask my wife!), here's a picture of the area that has been tiled. Now, for the final question, does this tile and/or grout need to be sealed? If so, with what?

JDgreen227 · Jan 3, 2004

My wife's brother and I just finished doing the project of a large corner whirlpool tub, the project required using four sheets of the cement board. We cut the board outdoors using a 7 1/4 circular saw with a thin rim diamond blade sold at Home Depot for about $15. It cuts really fast and smooth, the same saw blade does wonders for cutting concrete block.

When the tub was in place we had to cover the base with $500 worth of very expensive tile, some of the tiles cost $24 each which required using extra care while trimming. I purchased one of Home Depot's 3/4 hp wet cutting tile saws, the price of $88 plus tax was only a few dollars more than renting their tile saw for two days. The saw did an amazingly fast job of cutting 5/16 inch thick tile, once I got it home and tried it out I was so happy I decided to buy it instead of renting one. Just my two cents worth, and NO, I don't own any HD stock !! (just wish I did)

Alan L. · Jan 3, 2004

You can cut the cement board with a utility knife by scoring both sides and then breaking it. If you have notches and stuff to cut out, you can turn an old saw blade around backwards and use your circular saw. Be sure to wear eye and lung protection.

I have had much experience with the green "water resistant" sheetrock, all of it very bad. I spent lots of time replacing old waterlogged sheetrock in my showers, replacing it with the green sheetrock, which was NO BETTER, and lasted on a year or so. Redid the whole thing with concrete board and that did the trick.

Now a backsplash is not going to get as wet as a shower wall, but if it was me, I'd use the concrete board.

OkeeDon · Jan 8, 2004

I didn't see this post when you first started, but I have lots of experience with HardiPanel, which is the same stuff as HardiBacker except a little thicker for use as siding (HardiPlanks and HardiBoards are the same material). You can kinda be glad you ended up not using the HardiBacker, not because it isn't great (it is), but because it's hard to cut. I own a special type of power shears to cut it without dust, but it's a tool that looks like not much more than a hand power drill, but costs $450 -- not what the average homeowner would have (unless he's Tim from ToolTime).

Otherwise, you should use a diamond blade in a skill saw to cut it, because the cement will mess up any regular blades really fast. It also creates a lot of dust, so much so, that the saws wear out faster than the blades. Hardi stuff can't be scored and broken like Wonderboard or Durarock, because it's too dense. You can use a Rotozip for curves and small cuts, we also had some diamond-tipped saber saw blades.

I forget who it was that asked about a backer for copper, but it reminded me of one of the great properties of Hardi products -- not only are they pretty much rot-proof, they're also non-combustible. Makes a great backer for anything behind a stove.

We used the HardiPanels to be the non-combustible and rot-proof underlayment for outdoor kitchen grill islands. Worked absolutely great. We veneered the panels with whatever the customer wanted for appearance - tile, stucco, stone, granite, slate, brick facing, etc.

ScottAR · Jan 9, 2004

I scored the hardibacker under my tile floor. I used a carbide tipped scoring tool and went over it a few times. Worked fine with little dust. I wouldn't try it on the siding though.

bebster · Jan 9, 2004

I am planning to build my own soaking tub (about 30" deep and 3' x 6') since I can't find anything pre-fabbed that deep. Don't care about the whirlpool jets, and other fancy feature, just a deep tub filled with hot water to soak the old bones in.

Was planning to use cement board on top of a wood frame. And then tile and grout over that. One simple drain in the bottom at a slight slope should do it for drainage, and a filler spout mounted near the side of the tub.

Do you think this is a good approach? I'd appreciate any suggestions.

MikePA · Jan 9, 2004

Do you think this is a good approach? I'd appreciate any suggestions. 
I recommend some kind of rubber membrane (like is used in a shower floor) that is attached on the top of your wooden frame, i.e., no holes in the membrane. I don't think grout is going to stay waterproof for long. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Most tile tub installs I've seen include a seamless metal pan and a waterproof membrane that extends up the sides.