Chain Harrow???

[RidgeHiker]

The area around my home is mainly wooded with evergreens and a small amount of oaks. I rake and mulch the abundant tree droppings (needles, seed pods, cones, small branches, leaves, etc.) with either my bush hog or my non-tractor chipper/shredder. My goal is to integrate most of the vegetative matter back into the soil at a shallow depth. I would leave it on top to create a natural duff which supports a healthy forest but do not want to let it build up much on the surface for fire protection, living in the California mountains.

Dragging the new mulch with a chain harrow seems like it might be a good tool for this and not an expensive one. What do you think? Any better solutions?

There is not much clay in the soil so it is easy to work.

Thanks for your help.

 

[Cougsfan]

Might work OK. I wouldn't do it too often though. Small branches may be a problem by getting hung up in the unit. Not sure how much it will help for fire protection but it sure can't hurt. The brush hog to cut standing brush is your best defense.

My friend and I attempted to ride our motorcycles though the backwoods of Northern California just after this Labor Day. We had to turn back because so many roads were closed due to fires. One 30 mile stretch between Happy Camp, California and Cave Junction, Oregon everything was burnt to a crisp as far as you could see in every direction. I really feel for you guys and your fire issues.

 

[RidgeHiker]

That's a nice ride. Done that in my truck. There have been so many fires over the years in that whole area from the California Highway 96 that goes through Happy Camp to north of Oregon Highway 199 that goes through Cave Junction.

Brush is not much of an issue here and I either shred or chip the branches & twigs. Also have a pto chipper for the larger stuff.

 

[Wagtail]

A chain harrow might work but I reckon that too much material will slip through.

A landscape rake would be a better go IMHO.

 

[jigs_n_fixtures]

When the fire guys make a fire break, they dig down to mineral soil, because in dry climates it take a while for things to break down, and the fire can get down in the duff, and wander for days, until a good breeze hits it, and then it gets enough oxygen to start burning. The is a lot of how delayed ignition lightning fires get going.

They used fly the lighting point and look for smoke. If they don’t see any no fire.. Three days later, the wind picks up, and the smoldering duff pops into to flame land we’re off to the hodeo.

So, I’m hesitant about tilling vegetative matter into the soil. I have to go into the office tomorrow, and I’ll check with the fire folks and see what they say.

 

[jeff9366]

My goal is to integrate most of the vegetative matter back into the soil at a shallow depth. I would leave it on top to create a natural duff which supports a healthy forest but do not want to let it build up much on the surface for fire protection, living in the California mountains.

Shaking out debris from a towed "mat" chain harrow is exhausting. It would not be my choice.

I recommend a disk harrow which will "cut" vegetative material into the soil surface.

I use a disk harrow both for maintaining fire breaks and trail maintenance in FLAT Florida.


MORE: Disc Harrow - Tandem Disc Harrow Selection For Compact Tractors



An alternative is a Disc Plow.

Monroe Tufline is the main USA producer of Disc Plows.

Tufline – Well Built, Performance Driven Implements

monroetufline.com

 

[coobie]

Pine needle rake..

 

[RidgeHiker]

Thanks Jeff for the videos and info. My concern with the disk harrow is that it seems like it will rough the soil up more than I want though it clearly will mix the mulched material into the soil much better.

Whatever I get I will be pulling it with my ATV rather than my tractor for greater maneuverability and lesser size to get around trees and in smaller areas. Is it realistic to keep the disks high enough to turn the soil some without substantial disturbance to the soil?

 

[Wagtail]

Thanks Jeff for the videos and info. My concern with the disk harrow is that it seems like it will rough the soil up more than I want though it clearly will mix the mulched material into the soil much better.

Whatever I get I will be pulling it with my ATV rather than my tractor for greater maneuverability and lesser size to get around trees and in smaller areas. Is it realistic to keep the disks high enough to turn the soil some without substantial disturbance to the soil?

I though so... I know (seen at AGFEST, Tasmanian Agricultural Show) that there are landscape rakes, indeed, a number of towed implements, specifically designed to be used with an ATV or side-by-side.

Perhaps, with a wee bit of research, there's a 'pine needle' rake that will suit your needs. Personally, I'd invest in the landscape rake as it could be utilised in a few more 'scenarios' around your property.

 

[Diggin It]

A landscape rake does fine for dragging loose materials, but it won't do much cutting to break anything loose that's packed down very hard/dense. I have to till or do something similar before the rake will do anything.

I was wanting to use mine to break up the surface of the grass to help with reseeding, but it won't cut it. Literally.

Planning on getting a harrow and putting some weight on it to tear the surface better, then seed and roll.

 

[jeff9366]

Is it realistic to keep the disks high enough to turn the soil some without substantial disturbance to the soil?

With a Disc Harrow mounted on a tractor's Three Point Hitch -- YES

Discs towed behind ATVs are very light. Should not be an issue.

MORE: ADJUSTING Three Point Hitch Mounted TANDEM DISC HARROWS



A drag chain harrow and a Landscape Rake will both move organic material around but no incorporate the material into the soil. Would surface accumulation be a fire hazard where you are?

 

[RidgeHiker]

Thanks Wagtail. "Perhaps, with a wee bit of research, there's a 'pine needle' rake that will suit your needs. Personally, I'd invest in the landscape rake as it could be utilised in a few more 'scenarios' around your property."

Have never used a landscape rake but concerned that it would gather up the mulched debris rather than mix it into the soil???

 

[Wagtail]

Thanks Wagtail. "Perhaps, with a wee bit of research, there's a 'pine needle' rake that will suit your needs. Personally, I'd invest in the landscape rake as it could be utilised in a few more 'scenarios' around your property."

Have never used a landscape rake but concerned that it would gather up the mulched debris rather than mix it into the soil???

I'd 'Google' 'ATV implements for food plots' = there's a whole variety of ideas. The same principles that you want to accomplish apply to 'food plots'.

 

[WM75Guy]

We just covered our arena with pine shavings/sawdust to help firm up the footing and cut down on dust. After spreading it out with the FEL I used our 4'X4' chain harrow from TSC behind the Mule to smooth it out. I had the tines pointing back, not forwards, so it did not cut as aggressive as it could have. There was very little mixing of the sand and the shavings.

 

[RidgeHiker]

With a Disc Harrow mounted on a tractor's Three Point Hitch -- YES

Discs towed behind ATVs are very light. Should not be an issue.

MORE: ADJUSTING Three Point Hitch Mounted TANDEM DISC HARROWS



A drag chain harrow and a Landscape Rake will both move organic material around but no incorporate the material into the soil. Would surface accumulation be a fire hazard where you are?

Yes on the fire hazard. Dry needles, etc. is very flammable. A concern is that the flames can ladder up smaller trees and bushes into the forest canopy.

 

[RidgeHiker]

We just covered our arena with pine shavings/sawdust to help firm up the footing and cut down on dust. After spreading it out with the FEL I used our 4'X4' chain harrow from TSC behind the Mule to smooth it out. I had the tines pointing back, not forwards, so it did not cut as aggressive as it could have. There was very little mixing of the sand and the shavings.

Thanks Randy, your direct experience is very helpful. Was the "Mule" a Kawasaki one?

 

[Creamer]

I cannot imagine a chain harrow doing much to break up the material. I pull one quite often to smooth out the high spots in the lawn caused by the shifting clay soils we have and small rodents and it does a nice job of that. But it will either let the material pass through or bunch it. I suggest a small disc set very straight, i.e. not engaged in disc operator terminology, which will cut the pine needles and other items and get them to break down quicker. Your setting will determine how much dirt you move - from virtually none to a whole lot as shown in the videos.

A landscape rake will just pile p the trash which is fine if you are going to compost it and spread it.

 

[RidgeHiker]

Thanks All. Sounds like the disc harrow is the way to go. Seems a little odd to be looking for a tractor implement for my atv but interested to see how this works out.

 

[Wyobuckaroo]

I pull two chain link harrows side by side with a spreader bar.. The harrows are 5' wide x 6 1/2' long.. This to break down the weed and non edible plant stems in our old pasture.. It will clog up and self clean as it needs to as you go It seems to take care of itself pretty much..

Most unwanted plant stalks will break the stalks when bent like this and will ****** the growth of the un wanted plants while the good grasses will come back quicker than other plants.. It isn't likely the best solution, but a not bad solution and cheaper than some options.. Also good seat time..

 

[Cougsfan]

I would think a disc harrow would be too aggressive for what you want. Landscape rakes work fine if the ground is level, while a chain harrow will fit the contour of uneven land better. Jig points out that this would not totally eliminate the fire hazard, but I would think if you were to use a chain harrow to spread the dead vegetation out, knock it down and lightly mixed into the soil would be far less of a fire hazard than if you were to do nothing at all.
If you want the chain harrow to be more aggressive, just attach a railroad tie to the top of it.