3-Point Hitch Chain hookup on rear of my L3400: best attachment point?

[Desmo-Kid]

Hi, I thought I would just use the hitch or tow bar (or whatever the bar that comes standard under the tractor) to pull heavy things with a chain. But I realized that I would put a lot of stress sideways on any bolt-on hook, stress that the hook is not designed for.

What is the most direct and economical way of hooking up a chain in the back of this tractor? Is there an assembly available that slides over this bar, which has a hole in the direction to mount a hook? Or is buying a drawbar and put a hook in that the best way? What have other users found?

 

[dex3361]

Hi, I thought I would just use the hitch or tow bar (or whatever the bar that comes standard under the tractor) to pull heavy things with a chain. But I realized that I would put a lot of stress sideways on any bolt-on hook, stress that the hook is not designed for.

What is the most direct and economical way of hooking up a chain in the back of this tractor? Is there an assembly available that slides over this bar, which has a hole in the direction to mount a hook? Or is buying a drawbar and put a hook in that the best way? What have other users found?

Welcome to TBN. I use this CHAIN HOOK attached to my draw bar from
Tractor Supply. (Click on the Blue of the words chain hook for the link)
Here is a pick of mine.

 

[kuboman]

Hi, I thought I would just use the hitch or tow bar (or whatever the bar that comes standard under the tractor) to pull heavy things with a chain. But I realized that I would put a lot of stress sideways on any bolt-on hook, stress that the hook is not designed for.

What is the most direct and economical way of hooking up a chain in the back of this tractor? Is there an assembly available that slides over this bar, which has a hole in the direction to mount a hook? Or is buying a drawbar and put a hook in that the best way? What have other users found?

A clevis works great. It is just a U shapes heavy rod that a pin goes through and you pin it to your draw bar. That way it will pivot any direction.

 

[leonz]

The term Clevis actually refers to a "Shackle" when you go to the farm supply store for one.

You do not want a slide on tube assembly as it is weaker than the draw bar.

Do several things before you buy it:


1. Measure the thickness of the draw bar to allow for proper clearance at
the shackle ears.

2. Be sure to buy a shackle with a wide opening between the shackle ears
for the drawbar pin hole size; as the width of the shackle between
the ears may not pass over the end of the drawbar-no you dont want to
heat it to bend it to work as the shackle ears will not meet after
that.some shackles are cast with wide openings to accept several pieces
of log chain at one time. Find the right pin size shackle with a wide
opening betweenn the ears and buy it.

 

[Grateful11]

Try to never hook above the center of the rear axle, you'd probably do a wheelie.

 

[Baby Grand]

Here's my chain to drawbar anchorage - It's a shackle & banjo link:



This allows fairly quick attachment - probably a little more effort than dex3361's hook. This makes for a very secure & unrestricted attachment to the drawbar. The shackle also is a great place to tie off a rope. I have two slip hooks on the FEL bucket that are also great for working with rope and two banjo links that transform the hooks to chain grabs whenever the need arises:




Remember - try not to pull at an angle to your centerline. If you must do this keep the angle as small as possible to minimize the risk of laying your machine on it's side. Better yet, get a snatch block and some high quality rope for when you get into a situation where you can't avoid and angled pull.

Work safe,

Jim

 

[dex3361]

Here's my chain to drawbar anchorage - It's a shackle & banjo link:

View attachment 167073

This allows fairly quick attachment - probably a little more effort than dex3361's hook. This makes for a very secure & unrestricted attachment to the drawbar. The shackle also is a great place to tie off a rope. I have two slip hooks on the FEL bucket that are also great for working with rope and two banjo links that transform the hooks to chain grabs whenever the need arises:

View attachment 167074


Remember - try not to pull at an angle to your centerline. If you must do this keep the angle as small as possible to minimize the risk of laying your machine on it's side. Better yet, get a snatch block and some high quality rope for when you get into a situation where you can't avoid and angled pull.

Work safe,

Jim

Hey Jim
I like the Banjo Links, where did you get them? I would feel safer with them in a lot of situations or when skidding multiple logs.

 

[RickB]

Here's my chain to drawbar anchorage - It's a shackle & banjo link:



Remember - try not to pull at an angle to your centerline. If you must do this keep the angle as small as possible to minimize the risk of laying your machine on it's side. Better yet, get a snatch block and some high quality rope for when you get into a situation where you can't avoid and angled pull. Work safe,

Jim

It's just about impossible to cause a side rollover when pulling from a fixed drawbar which is well below the tractor's COG. I say "just about impossible" because someone, somewhere has probably accomplished it using a combination of speed and carelessness.

 

[Baby Grand]

Hey Jim
I like the Banjo Links, where did you get them? I would feel safer with them in a lot of situations or when skidding multiple logs.

Northern Tool has them, but I think I got mine from Bailey's. Search Chain Grab Link. Where'd you get that swinging hook? That's the first time I've seen one of those and for pulling chain with the drawbar it looks perfect.

-Jim

 

[MikeInEburg]

I have a 2'' trailer towing ball in my drawbar and simply place the slip hook of my logging chain around it. Easy on and off, pivots nicely, and convenient when I'm moving the trailer around.

Regardless of the connection method, pull only with the drawbar.
Mike

 

[Baby Grand]

It's just about impossible to cause a side rollover when pulling from a fixed drawbar which is well below the tractor's COG. I say "just about impossible" because someone, somewhere has probably accomplished it using a combination of speed and carelessness.

I agree with this up to a point. As a general rule, though, it can get you into real trouble but fast. The concern I have with any side pull is that since the drawbar is well above the bottom edge of the rear tire on the side of the thing being pulled, the bottom edge of this tire can act as a fulcrum to the tractor with the pull line creating a tipping force. If this happens, and it's not unlikely in a side pull, stability can evaporate quickly if the applied load on the line gets very large. This tipping force can be greatly compounded if that tire spins and digs in, tipping the tractor, or is on the downhill side of a slope. It's sort of a secondary effect, but one you have to be mindful of so it doesn't bite you. Similar to center of boyancy vs. center of gravity on a ship.

It's for this reason that I strongly recommend a snatch block redirected side pull over a side pull directly coupled to the drawbar.

-Jim

 

[RickB]

I agree with this up to a point. As a general rule, though, it can get you into real trouble but fast. The concern I have with any side pull is that since the drawbar is well above the bottom edge of the rear tire on the side of the thing being pulled, the bottom edge of this tire can act as a fulcrum to the tractor with the pull line creating a tipping force. If this happens, and it's not unlikely in a side pull, stability can evaporate quickly if the applied load on the line gets very large. This tipping force can be greatly compounded if that tire spins and digs in, tipping the tractor, or is on the downhill side of a slope. It's sort of a secondary effect, but one you have to be mindful of so it doesn't bite you. Similar to center of boyancy vs. center of gravity on a ship.

It's for this reason that I strongly recommend a snatch block redirected side pull over a side pull directly coupled to the drawbar.

-Jim

When one rear wheel comes off the ground, or nearly so, tractive forces effectively cease unless the differential lock is engaged. The tractor will stop long before it tips over when the load is hooked to the drawbar. The drawbar didn't end up in that place on the tractor by accident. Snatchblocks work well in theory, but more often than not a suitable anchor in the proper location isn't present. Snatchblocks also generally preclude the use of a chain for towing or pulling.

Side pulls are easily avoided in most instances by pointing the tractor in a different direction.

 

[kebo]

I have two ways to attach a chain to my tractor. Look at the drawbar and you will see the bent clevis (made that way) attached to it. Also, I can hook a chain directly to the hand-hitch that I made.

 

[Chilly807]

I have a 2'' trailer towing ball in my drawbar and simply place the slip hook of my logging chain around it.
Mike

I do the same thing with mine.


Sean

 

[dex3361]

Hey Jim
I like the Banjo Links, where did you get them? I would feel safer with them in a lot of situations or when skidding multiple logs.

I picked it up at TSC here is the link Tractor Supply.

 

[Baby Grand]

Trying out this multi-quote thingy:

I picked it up at TSC here is the link Tractor Supply.

I guess I didn't look hard enough last time I was at TSC - I'll keep an eye out next time I'm there. Thanks

When one rear wheel comes off the ground, or nearly so, tractive forces effectively cease unless the differential lock is engaged. The tractor will stop long before it tips over when the load is hooked to the drawbar. The drawbar didn't end up in that place on the tractor by accident. Snatchblocks work well in theory, but more often than not a suitable anchor in the proper location isn't present. Snatchblocks also generally preclude the use of a chain for towing or pulling.

Side pulls are easily avoided in most instances by pointing the tractor in a different direction.

You have a good point and I hadn't considered the pull being self limited by the loss of traction. But lifting a rear is kind of cutting it close for me. And yes, moving the tractor to line up with the pull is a great idea.

-Jim

 

[Rockyridge]

I have two ways to attach a chain to my tractor. Look at the drawbar and you will see the bent clevis (made that way) attached to it. Also, I can hook a chain directly to the hand-hitch that I made.

I see that you have a chain hook on the top of your hand-made hitch; do you ever hook a chain to it for pulling?

I suppose that I am going to get into trouble with the safety police if I admit that I have, on occasion, used a raised wide drawbar (the long removable one that goes on the bottom of the three point) to get more traction. I know that this is not a recommended procedure but is not as much of an issue with a FEL installed. It was a little more of a problem with an old 8N that I used to drive but I have never raised the front of my L3400 with a FEL. But, if you ever do this the chain has to come straight out, not at an angle with the back of the tractor, and the chain has to go through a clevis to keep it in the middle of the drawbar so it can稚 move to the side.

Has anyone else ever done this and lived to tell about it?

 

[luc]

On my L2900 I have the factory clevis drawbar,which basically is a "Z" shaped bar bolted to the drawbar at 1 end with a hole on the other end to run a pin between the bar and drawbsar
See diagram: Parts for Kubota L2900 4WD Glide-Shift Diesel Tractors