Chain Life

   / Chain Life #1  

yomax4

Elite Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2007
Messages
2,819
Location
Midwest
Tractor
ISEKI TA 247. Stihl Saws Gravely Zt's Polaris ATV's State Of The Art Welding Equipment
I have been digging through old posts and can't find exactly what i'm looking for. Historically I sharpened down to 1/8" from the angle mark on on the tooth. Question is, Does anyone go beyond the 1/8"? I can't imagine running it further on a 60cc saw. Or am I throwing away good chain?
 
   / Chain Life #2  
I never did either.

Chain costs $18, and a cord of wood is worth $70 roadside. Since it takes about 7 trees to make a cord of hardwood, that means after cutting the first (2) trees, the chain is paid for. After that, the chain is just making me money.

I could get about 20 cord on a chain, so I figured that was good enough.

The same thing for bars, they are $40, so after that first cord of wood, chain and bar is paid for. I averaged about 150-200 cord per bar running used oil/hydraulic oil, or whatever I could find. At $40, I did not see a need to buy expensive bar and chain oil for something that is just consumed anyway.
 
   / Chain Life #3  
I agree. JMHO - it's more important to ensure that your chain/bar is getting plenty of oil, rather than using expensive bar oil.
 
   / Chain Life #4  
... a cord of wood is worth $70 roadside.

Are you talking about an actual FULL cord (4'x4'x8' stack)? No way anyone would sell a full cord around here for $70. Maybe a 16" face cord (4'x8'x16") would go for that. That would be a decent deal for a green face cord, and a bargain for a face cord of seasoned wood.
 
   / Chain Life #5  
A full cord 128cf (4'x8'x16'') around here is about $350.00
 
   / Chain Life #6  
Are you talking about an actual FULL cord (4'x4'x8' stack)? No way anyone would sell a full cord around here for $70. Maybe a 16" face cord (4'x8'x16") would go for that. That would be a decent deal for a green face cord, and a bargain for a face cord of seasoned wood.

I have sold tree length logs for firewood to processors for $55/ cord but they had to block it themselves
 
   / Chain Life #7  
I have been digging through old posts and can't find exactly what I'm looking for. Historically I sharpened down to 1/8" from the angle mark on on the tooth. Question is, Does anyone go beyond the 1/8"? I can't imagine running it further on a 60cc saw. Or am I throwing away good chain?

I'm assume you are knocking down the chain rakes as it wears? As other guys have stated, chains and bars are expendable items but I'd add the drive sprocket as well. All these parts live tough lives and we bring multiple chains with us, into the field. Do you know how to properly clean the bar guide the chain clutch cover? Doing this helps the oil get to the chains and make all your parts last a bit longer.
 
Last edited:
   / Chain Life #8  
I sharpen down til just a triangle left. Which is about right at the witness mark for angle.

They are worth keeping if for nothing more than flush cutting stumps one last time before you pitch them.

On a side note.....hardwood firewood is ~$160-$180/cord around here.
 
   / Chain Life #9  
I sharpen down til just a triangle left. Which is about right at the witness mark for angle.

They are worth keeping if for nothing more than flush cutting stumps one last time before you pitch them.

On a side note.....hardwood firewood is ~$160-$180/cord around here.

Why not use a “good chain” for flush cutting stumps?
Or are you saying there’s likely to be dirt and stones?

I keep a few “used up” chains around in case I need to cut roots.
Lucky if you can cut a couple roots before you have to switch out one old chain for another.
 
Last edited:
   / Chain Life #10  
Why not use a “good chain” for flush cutting stumps?
Or are you saying there’s likely to be dirt and stones?

I keep a few “used up” chains around in case I need to cut roots.
If likely you can cut a couple roots before you have to switch out one old chain for another.
I use a sawzall with a limb blade for roots, it lasts much longer..
 
 
Top