Chain Life

[yomax4]

I have been digging through old posts and can't find exactly what i'm looking for. Historically I sharpened down to 1/8" from the angle mark on on the tooth. Question is, Does anyone go beyond the 1/8"? I can't imagine running it further on a 60cc saw. Or am I throwing away good chain?

 

[BrokenTrack]

I never did either.

Chain costs $18, and a cord of wood is worth $70 roadside. Since it takes about 7 trees to make a cord of hardwood, that means after cutting the first (2) trees, the chain is paid for. After that, the chain is just making me money.

I could get about 20 cord on a chain, so I figured that was good enough.

The same thing for bars, they are $40, so after that first cord of wood, chain and bar is paid for. I averaged about 150-200 cord per bar running used oil/hydraulic oil, or whatever I could find. At $40, I did not see a need to buy expensive bar and chain oil for something that is just consumed anyway.

 

[oosik]

I agree. JMHO - it's more important to ensure that your chain/bar is getting plenty of oil, rather than using expensive bar oil.

 

[John_Mc]

... a cord of wood is worth $70 roadside.

Are you talking about an actual FULL cord (4'x4'x8' stack)? No way anyone would sell a full cord around here for $70. Maybe a 16" face cord (4'x8'x16") would go for that. That would be a decent deal for a green face cord, and a bargain for a face cord of seasoned wood.

 

[Peter 315]

A full cord 128cf (4'x8'x16'') around here is about $350.00

 

[fruitcakesa]

Are you talking about an actual FULL cord (4'x4'x8' stack)? No way anyone would sell a full cord around here for $70. Maybe a 16" face cord (4'x8'x16") would go for that. That would be a decent deal for a green face cord, and a bargain for a face cord of seasoned wood.

I have sold tree length logs for firewood to processors for $55/ cord but they had to block it themselves

 

[ArlyA]

I have been digging through old posts and can't find exactly what I'm looking for. Historically I sharpened down to 1/8" from the angle mark on on the tooth. Question is, Does anyone go beyond the 1/8"? I can't imagine running it further on a 60cc saw. Or am I throwing away good chain?

I'm assume you are knocking down the chain rakes as it wears? As other guys have stated, chains and bars are expendable items but I'd add the drive sprocket as well. All these parts live tough lives and we bring multiple chains with us, into the field. Do you know how to properly clean the bar guide the chain clutch cover? Doing this helps the oil get to the chains and make all your parts last a bit longer.

 

[LD1]

I sharpen down til just a triangle left. Which is about right at the witness mark for angle.

They are worth keeping if for nothing more than flush cutting stumps one last time before you pitch them.

On a side note.....hardwood firewood is ~$160-$180/cord around here.

 

[CobyRupert]

I sharpen down til just a triangle left. Which is about right at the witness mark for angle.

They are worth keeping if for nothing more than flush cutting stumps one last time before you pitch them.

On a side note.....hardwood firewood is ~$160-$180/cord around here.

Why not use a “good chain” for flush cutting stumps?
Or are you saying there’s likely to be dirt and stones?

I keep a few “used up” chains around in case I need to cut roots.
Lucky if you can cut a couple roots before you have to switch out one old chain for another.

 

[radios1]

Why not use a “good chain” for flush cutting stumps?
Or are you saying there’s likely to be dirt and stones?

I keep a few “used up” chains around in case I need to cut roots.
If likely you can cut a couple roots before you have to switch out one old chain for another.

I use a sawzall with a limb blade for roots, it lasts much longer..

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

In Manitoba Canada, $65 for a permit allows us to cut 10 cords of wood off crown lands. LOTS of cutting areas only minutes from my place. I go through 15 cords +/- per year (mostly jack pine) and I get about 30 cords per chain on my stihl saws. But I do take a lot of care to keep chains sharp and clean. No need to cut into the dirt when trees are plentiful and cheap around here.

 

[Captain Dirty]

I use a sawzall with a limb blade for roots, it lasts much longer..

I was advised on this forum, and have since proved to my own satisfaction, that demolition blades, especially carbide tipped ones, dull much more slowly than pruning blades when using a sawzall on roots.

 

[RalphVa]

I've only had 1 or 2 where I absolutely wore them/it out. Think I got down to less than 1/8" on each cutter bar. Not sure how short you can grind them and use without having them start breaking off. Not good, because the chain is coming at you from the bottom side.

The wear out(s) occurred after being commercially sharpened probably 6 to 8 times.

Ralph

 

[yomax4]

I use an 026 pro with a 20" bar for limbing 5" and smaller limbs and brush. I use 20" for reach and ease of only having 1 bar and chain size for 99% of my cutting. I guess i"ll use the 1/8" life chains on the limbing saw and stumps. Fire wood around here in southern MN. is about $150.00 for a 8' box pickup load or $300 per cord. I cut and burn 12-15 cord per year in my outdoor boiler heating 2 buildings. Lucky for me the prominent wood here is Oak, Hickory,Cherry and Red Elm. More than I could ever burn.

 

[CobyRupert]

I was advised on this forum, and have since proved to my own satisfaction, that demolition blades, especially carbide tipped ones, dull much more slowly than pruning blades when using a sawzall on roots.

How do you not slam the end of the blade into the dirt and not bend it?

 

[Captain Dirty]

How do you not slam the end of the [sawzall] blade into the dirt and not bend it?

So far I have been able to excavate (sometimes using a trowel) around the root so the blade doesn't jam the dirt. That doesn't eliminate the problem completely. The stresses in roots are not as obvious as the stresses in trunks and branches. I've had the blade bend when it binds in the cut and starts shaking this 220 lb. body. Demolition blades are stouter (thicker) than pruning blades and can still be used with slight bends.

 

[ArlyA]

When we are in da woods being trail sawyers, we do not bring saw-all's along with us since we normally have to pack in everything with us. That of course means you make do with what you've got. Yes cutting next to the dirt is hard on your sharp chain, but such is life. We clean the dirt away via shovel and have little broom along to sweep more away. It still dulls your chain but that's why you have spares along, not to mention files.

 

[fruitcakesa]

I run them down to the last sharpen-able nub and cut the rakers accordingly.

 

[dodge man]

On Stihl chains I think there is a line etched to show you where to toss the chain. I don’t cut that much wood and have yet to wear out a chain but I usually have two and rotate them.

 

[BrokenTrack]

Are you talking about an actual FULL cord (4'x4'x8' stack)? No way anyone would sell a full cord around here for $70. Maybe a 16" face cord (4'x8'x16") would go for that. That would be a decent deal for a green face cord, and a bargain for a face cord of seasoned wood.

Tree length hardwood pulp going to the paper mill.

Green, Tree Length Firewood is $90 per cord.