Chain Saw Advice

   / Chain Saw Advice #51  
I guess I started out as a "city slicker" in my earlier days. I bought a 16" Poulan that would probably best best described a an occasional limb trimmer and I still have and use it today. I wouldn't or couldn't guess as to how many 30" trees I dropped with it. 20 years later, forestry became my favorite hobby and I picked up a Stihl Farm Boss with an 18" bar. Both saws are excellent and if I had to summarize the pros and cons is that the Poulan is an excellent "limber". Light in weight and with a sharp chain...outperforms or is equal to many other more expensive saws. The smaller chain however allows less sharpenings before it is relegated to the iron pile. The Stihl is heavier but also can handle any tree I have to drop. The chain is heavier and many sharpenings are built into the beef of the cutting blade. I use the respective manufacturers oil in each of them and run them weekly. I think sitting on the shelf for months at a time are the only factor that leads to hardstarting. At temperatures at 10degrees below, I might have to pull the start cord 6 - 8 times before I see sign's of life. Incidentally, both saws are on the original spark plugs with the Poulan having at my best guess 300 hours on it and the Stihl 500 hours.

As for cutting down all of the trees on an acre of land, that is up to debate and the condition of the forest itself. I have red oak trees that soar 50 foot into the sky, straight as an arrow, 28" in diameter or more, and those trees form the genetic pool of what I want to see. Trees that have a definite crotch formed 6' above the ground are useless as lumber and best for firewood for example Those, along with the trees that seem to grow sideways instead of upwards are the first trees I cull. Useless once again for nothing but firewood. Next we look at the useless and nutrient grabbing trees like ironwood and poplar. Not big money producers in any respect. In short, why grow crap trees when something more desireable could occupy that same space? We control the weeds in a cornfield, kill thistles in a field, and a forest is no different. Controlled management shows more concern for the environment than doing nothing at all. I also take wildlife into consideration in my management practices. Hollow trees are homes and nests to many animals and ultimately, they control the insects.

Every person has a right to an opinion. I think the biggest sore spot is an outsider outbidding us on a piece of land and driving up the prices of land and ultimately our land values and taxes. My Dad always preached to his kids that land is the best investment in the world because we'll never have anymore than what we have now. I am also a firm believer in the fact that just because I am steadfast in my opinions, the other guy might have a better idea of the "big picture" than I do. I have to respect his rights also. Clyde
 
   / Chain Saw Advice #52  
<font color="blue"> useless and nutrient grabbing trees like ironwood and poplar. </font>

Poplar trees bringing about 40 cents a board foot,not useless in the least.There is a market for poplar,staves..poplar is a good wood to work with and resists weather well.It will not bring as much as a good oak but it is not trash by no means.
 
   / Chain Saw Advice
  • Thread Starter
#53  
Thanks for the reply John.

Now you have given me a problem though--some say Husky, some say Stihl.

I suspect what I am going to do is go out looking at the local dealers Friday morning. I will look at the pro models of both Stihl and Husky.

I learned a long time ago that the few extra $ spent on a top of the line tool were well worth it.

I don't know yet what I will come back with, but it will be one or the other -- the one that feels best in my hands. I already have chaps and gloves. The helmets I looked at were all missing the face shield, so I will get one with this part.

Chain Saw boots are on my list, and if the place I get the saw has them, I will get a pair.

Thanks to all.
 
   / Chain Saw Advice #54  
Here goes the big brand debate...

My 2¢ worth:

I've been using chainsaws as long as I can remember. My current collection consists of Huskys that I purposely shopped for, Stihls that I bought on sale and other brands that appeared as if by magic.

I can spend a long day with a running Husky in my hands.

A couple of hours with a Stihl and my joints start to hurt.

Both saws are top-notch and I'll never hesitate to grab either for a quick job. (take a tree down or buck it...) but I want a saw that won't vibrate my joints to death if I'm going to be at it all day.

I'll vote for the Husky. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

P.S.: Huskys are easier to find when you drop 'em in the snow...
 
   / Chain Saw Advice #55  
I have found that if I treat my gasoline when I buy it with Stabil the fuel is always "fresh". Two Stroke or Four Stroke-doesn't matter--Lawnmowers, weed whacker, pressure washer, enging driven welder, generator, whatever. No need to get gunk/varnish out of a carb because I guess there never is any. Starts quickly after sitting all winter, all summer, or all the time. No end of season fooling around with fuel, draining tanks, trying to figure out what do do with what you drained.

I just run Stabil treated fuel all year. A couple of ounces does 5 gallons.

Sounds like you have a great place and I think you are in for a lot of great fun every day.
 
   / Chain Saw Advice #56  
Osprey- "useless" was probably a poor choice of terms on my part. However, I don't know where a property owner could possible expect to receive $.40 a board foot for poplar logs. If you are gauging your statement by what you pay at at the chain lumber yards....yes, definitely. The market around here ranges from $35 to $50 dollars for a full cord of poplar. Add to that the cost of trucking it to the paper mills or finding a buyer and you are lucky to get $20.00. I guess it all depends on the part of the country you live in. Weather resistant? As long as the poplar is protected from the elements, it will last indefinitely. So will cottonwood. Expose either to rain or stick a post in the ground and it will rot off in 5 years. Leave it lay on the damp ground and it is rotted in 3 years. I myself use popple for drawers in woodworking for the bottoms and backs. Around here, either you sell it to a paper mill or sell it to a pallet factory.

I didn't mean to ruffle feathers Osprey, but that's the way I perceive poplar in this area. Going by your figures, if I had a poplar log 22" in diameter and 8' long, that single log would be worth $64.80. That is darn good money - I will admit that much. The problem as I see it is that the market up here doesn't support those prices or close to it.
Clyde
 
   / Chain Saw Advice #57  
Here in NC MN a neighbor culls Poplar for firewood. Pays $20-25 per acre and sells a cord for $60-80, more to city slickers.

Further North a delivered & stacked dry hardwood cord runs $140. The stacking part takes a 50 yard hike behind the house so costs extra /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

A local sawmill sells slabwood for about $50 cord delivery included. He sells by the truckload so it's a 4-5 cord minimum.
 
   / Chain Saw Advice #58  
Barry - It's is tough to argue something when you have the proof in arguing what poplar sells for in your area. Supply and demand and whatever the market will bear are the limiting factors. I have a tough time or I should say it is incomprehensible for me to fathom why a person would pay $50.00 per cord for slabwood when I can buy the entire log in 1 cord quantities for less than that and get something to burn besides bark. Then I still would have to cut it into firewood lengths and split some of it besides. I guess I should have taken a class in the "new math" or "fuzzy logic" Incidentally, are we talking full or face cords for the cut and split firewood for $140.00? A face cord of oak sells for $45.00 around here and that is dumped in your driveway. At the burn rate of poplar and if that is all your neighbors sells in his firewood, the consumer might be better off looking for an alternative fuel.

Just me opinion guys - Clyde
 
   / Chain Saw Advice #59  
I timber my own land and I have taken some 16' x 18" logs in and gotten $40.00 to $50.00, these are nice straight logs I then leave the tops lay. The guy that hauls them for me hauls between 2500 to 3000 ft per load.The only thing we use for fence posts are locust posts and treated posts and Tposts. Oak or anything else other than locust and treated will rot off. I have seen locust pots that have been in the ground for 60 years.
I have cut some poplars that are 100' from the bottom of the stump to the very top of the tree,you find these in the deep hollows reaching for the sunlight. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
   / Chain Saw Advice #60  
Osprey - If we learned anything from this forum, localities and markets set the prices. I too manage my own woods and logging is sort of like playing the stock market - and that means the prices fluctuate. My words were never meant to start an argument but I was relating as to what I experience here in my area. I look forward to your posts and hear your side of the "big picture" in the future. Incidentally, I have white oak fence posts in the ground and the only preservative they had was to char the end that went into the ground. My grandfather put those exact fence posts in, in 1930. Take care my friend - Clyde
 

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