Chain Saw. Narrowed it down a little.

[Brokermike]

Beware of the TSC pre-boxed chains. They offer a full chisel chain but the rakers are bent over as some sort of anti kickback feature. Long story short they cut much slower and are much harder to sharpen as the raker gets in the way of the file, plus filing the raker is nearly impossible

 

[mark.r]

Beware of the TSC pre-boxed chains. They offer a full chisel chain but the rakers are bent over as some sort of anti kickback feature. Long story short they cut much slower and are much harder to sharpen as the raker gets in the way of the file, plus filing the raker is nearly impossible

I don't know much about saws so forgive me, but couldn't you just replace the chain with a more professional unit to correct this issue?

 

[RobertN]

I don't know much about saws so forgive me, but couldn't you just replace the chain with a more professional unit to correct this issue?

Probably not. The taller the rake, the less kickback, but slower cut too.

I asked at a place around here; they are only selling the real agressive chain to Pro's. Apparently it's become an OSHA safety kinda thing.

 

[mark.r]

Probably not. The taller the rake, the less kickback, but slower cut too.

I asked at a place around here; they are only selling the real agressive chain to Pro's. Apparently it's become an OSHA safety kinda thing.

Interesting. Well at any rate, I can see where this could be a concern for some you guys who are cutting multiple loads a year, definitely. But, I guess for a farm user like myself it makes very litte difference. Good info none the less.

 

[Marc L.]

Good day again,

the rake on the chain is there for a good reason: keeping your head in one piece!

beleive me Mark, you are better with the rake. Some people grind them off but I would suggest you to get use to your saw before thinking to do so. Your saw is powerful for its weight and kick backs happen quickly.

As far as sharpening, Oregon has a good kit and in particular the gauge for the rake. It makes sharpening your blade a breese. To also help preventing kick back, your Husqvarna dealer can sell you a tip cover for your blade (comes in handy when you are cutting a lot of branches).

The extra time you will spend cutting because of the rake sure beat the time spent in the ER getting the gash across your face stiched!

Marc

 

[mark.r]

Good day again,

the rake on the chain is there for a good reason: keeping your head in one piece!

beleive me Mark, you are better with the rake. Some people grind them off but I would suggest you to get use to your saw before thinking to do so. Your saw is powerful for its weight and kick backs happen quickly.

As far as sharpening, Oregon has a good kit and in particular the gauge for the rake. It makes sharpening your blade a breese. To also help preventing kick back, your Husqvarna dealer can sell you a tip cover for your blade (comes in handy when you are cutting a lot of branches).

The extra time you will spend cutting because of the rake sure beat the time spent in the ER getting the gash across your face stiched!

Marc

Once again information. Do you have a link for the Oregon sharpening kit you are refering too?

 

[Marc L.]

I just picked mine at HD.

you got a round and a flat files, an angle gauge for the round file and a rake gauge.

Your Husky dealer should have something similar. just choose the proper size for your blade.

 

[RobertN]

the rake on the chain is there for a good reason: keeping your head in one piece!

beleive me Mark, you are better with the rake. Some people grind them off but I would suggest you to get use to your saw before thinking to do so. Your saw is powerful for its weight and kick backs happen quickly.

As far as sharpening, Oregon has a good kit and in particular the gauge for the rake. It makes sharpening your blade a breese.

If he is buying a saw, he should be able to get everything for sharpening from the dealer(unles it is a box store). A good saw dealer will give you a quick tutorial on sharpening too.

The best thing you can do is not let the chain get dull. I keep three chains for each saw. I keep them sharp, and swap out right away if I notice it not cutting so well.

It is really easy to keep a good chain sharpened if you don't run it till dull, or overheat it.

Do a web search for the Oregon site, and search for chain sharpening. They had a good tutorial on-line. I think the website was posted here not too long ago.

 

[mark.r]

I'm at work but wanted to pick up an extra chain on my way home. I couldn't verify on line what I wanted and I am sure I am just not seeing it but doesn't the Husky Rancher have an 80 drive link count H22/H25/or H30 chain standard?

 

[D7E]

..455 is a **** good choice ..My reason for disliking the huskys was years ago the 359's and 362's would quit faster in -30 conditions and were harder starters ,Huskys would have one pull with full choke /5 or 6 pulls with no choke and hold choke half open for a couple of mins before would run properly.
Stihls would have one pull on full choke/one pull no choke and run like a watch instantly..?
I recently was looking for a new saw (1 every year) and gave husky another chance ..."55" ..$410 (went with price).....
Good saw when warm but same as what i remember ....Hard to start...Will not run upside-down for long ,Just not as user friendly as equivalent stihl.....Mechanically fine and the big thing.....Husky dealers tend to be "Lawn care/homeowner dealers".......Stihl dealers are open 7 days aweek and are "logger" suppliers...?
Warranty with husky....(maybe our dealers) I don't think they know what it means.
Stupidly one of our boys ran over the 18 month old ms 260 with a skidder and local dealer put a whole new back handle on it under warranty..?
The 359xp broke the pull cord on the 3rd day and my dealer changed in it and told me my boys were incompetent and said it was not a warranty issue and charged me $20...?
As far as i'm concerned F#$k husky...I run 6 saws all the time and 1 new one every year ....No more husky's....The saws are ok but they have to pick their dealers better...?
...Jonsered....When they updated models they were doing a "blowout" on 2050's up to 70cc catagory so i bought 2 2050's and 1 60cc (very cheap) All hard starting ,Would not idle,When cutting brash on power line clearance would throw chains off (Stopped this by changing all to deeper profile oregon bars)....But generally junk...?
Saws of all ages and sizes in the truck and 12 saws to choose from ....The boys take a 026 or ms260 for light to medium work or 066 for heavy work ......New boys get the huskys...And the boss gets the "55"......I bought it so i have to use it..?