Chain saw sharpening advice sought

[Creamer]

I used to take my chains in for sharpening but found I ran them too long between sharpenings and it got to be a hassle. I use a file on my Stihl with the Stihl sharpening kit. it helps me keep the file at the right angle and straight. Now I can sharpen my chain almost faster than I can change it. Also it is nice to touch it up out in the woods to keep it very sharp for easier and safer cutting.

My local dealer charges $5 to sharpen one which I do if I damage one. The cost once a year at "Sawdust Days" is $2.50 so I usually hand him a couple at that time.

Also the chains last longer when they are used sharp and with the file you do not take as much off.

 

[jlawso21]

$5 to sharpen a chain is a very good price, if I could get that I would not sharpen my own.

As it is I sharpened by hand for many years. Last year I bought the Northern Tools knock off of the electric grinder made by Oregon and it works very well.

One other thing, if you cut a lot, get the chain that is NOT the safety chain. The more aggressive teeth cut much faster and last longer, but be careful, more prone to kick back.

 

[beowulf]

Well, thanks to all. More detail to all this than I assumed (top plates, rakers, gullets, angles. .. ), but all useful. I will start, as recommended, by putting the saw in a vice, and getting a set of right-sized files, and a new chain so I can compare my filing angles to a new one. My Oregon chains are stated to be at a 30 degree angle so that helps figure things out. I may also start with a bar mount until my instincts tell me I am ready to do it by hand. I will also take a number of my old chains down to the local guy and hopefully he can do some of those while I wait so I can learn from that as well. . . or check out some youtube videos. I will also look at the Timberline bar mount sharpener as suggested by motownbrowne, but once I have a few of my old chains sharpened - hopefully while I watch - and work on a few more of my own, I should be set for a few more years.

Even if I get a bar mount to use in the shop, I want to know how to sharpen the chains in the field.

 

[JRobyn]

According to the way my saws cut and the opinions of my in-laws that bring their chains to me for sharpening, I do an awesome job of sharpening using a dremel and the correct size cylindrical stone. For me, it is super easy. USE GOOD EYE PROTECTION! Just draw the dremel/stone lightly back and forth at the right angle on each tooth with the dremel held horizontal. High RPM, not too much pressure! I use the "witness marks" when they are present, otherwise just use a consistent angle for each tooth that is the same as what the original teeth are angled. If teeth are badly worn, I may resort to a little metal filing guide I bought from Baileys. Filemate Universal Filing Gauge (Each) | Depth Guage Maintenance Tools | Files & Filing Accessories | www.www.baileysonline.com.com
Make certain to use the correct diameter stone for your chain. Most "homeowner" saws/chains use the smaller 5/32" or 3/16" stones.

It is easiest to sharpen with the chain mounted on the saw; just rotate it by hand to get to all the teeth. Gloves are a good idea.

It is best to have the dremel on the engine side of the chain so that the stone rotation is from the top of the tooth DOWN into the gullet. This leaves a very sharp and clean grind under the top of the tooth which is where you need it. You can't help but also have a nicely clean and freshly ground gullet. Simply keep the stone pressure backwards into the gullet until you see the very top leading edge of the tooth cutter just begin to be cut. As was noted, strong light and some magnification is very helpful so you can really see exactly when that tooth leading edge gets just perfect. I like to use something like these - Magnifier Head Strap With Lights

I use the same stone to just touch the very tops of the depth guides and lower them a thousandth or two every couple of sharpenings. The same Baileys guide is good for verifying the correct depth.

As others have noted, determine when a resharpening is needed by paying attention to your "chip". A properly functioning chain will spit out nice, satisfying, largish chips or strings if ripping. No powder, no dust. You should need no downforce on the saw other than its own weight. When you no longer are getting nice chips, STOP before you overheat the teeth and ruin their temper. Sharpen or change chains.

 

[Deere Dude]

I have a whole bunch of files and guide I could send you. My advise is to get a TimberTuff? or Oregon electric bench mounted sharpener and enjoy the sharpening in your leisure.

I bought a Harbor Freight bench mounted electric and used it for quite a few years after my BIL showed me how to do it. I found it was a little to flimsy and bought a TimberTuff? sharpener and enjoy sitting down with a handful of chains and sharpen away for a couple hours.

I would take a chain to a chain sharpener and let him show you how to sharpen it. If he won't, find a different service man. Sooner or later someone will help you figure it out, then it is a breeze, and if done right they will be pretty close to factory specs.

 

[NoTrespassing]

I actually get some satisfaction after sharpening a chain and watching it go through a tree like a hot knife through butter. I've never been shown how to do it but being a machinist for 30+ years it came pretty natural. I use a round file sometimes, other times I use the appropriate diameter Dremel. I would imagine everyone knows this but I've met people that don't so I'll mention it. Most files only cut in one direction and trying to make them cut in the wrong direction will only dull the file. Another thing I would mention is that when sharpening with a Dremel, don't overheat the teeth and ruin the temper of the steel. I run my Dremel on a fairly slow speed.

Kevin

 

[OldMcDonald]

beowulf, I cannot cut a straight line through a 6x2 with a handsaw, but I can sharpen the chain of a saw (I can also sharpen a handsaw) because I did not have much option other than to learn when I lived 30 miles from the nearest person able to sharpen them for me in Australia.

I have used just the file with a cork stuck on the point, but now use the hand-held guide as used in this YouTube video HOW TO SHARPEN A CHAINSAW WITH AND WITHOUT A FILE GUIDE, ADJUST DEPTH ADJUSTERS - YouTube Old age means my hand and eye co-ordination is notquite as good as it was when I first started to sharpen my own chains and I find the guide prevents me straying off angle. I do not use a blade clamp, but think it is probably a good idea.

The full commentary of the video is printed as the uploader's first comment. Useful for novices once you have seen the video.

 

[Eric Salop]

Bringing back the edge on an almost new chain by hand in not too difficult after a little practice, however it is much easier to get all the teeth angles consistent with a machine. I also have been looking recently at various types of electric sharpeners. I enjoy sharpening by hand, however my right shoulder, like the rest of me, is getting old and some days is reluctant to file as often as I would like, which is generally after 2 or 3 fuel refills.

There seem to be very variable reports on the various low cost machines that use a disc. Some people are happy with them, others think they flex too much, or are just unpleasant to use. One thing to watch for is that on many you have to clamp each tooth by tightening a screw, then undo it again before moving on to the next. That could turn chain sharpening into a real chore.

The sharpener that appeals to me most for sensible money and what I have ordered is made in the USA by Granberg PRECISION GRINDER (12V) - G112XT - Granberg International. It gets mostly excellent reports and there are some good videos on youtube that show it working
How To Sharpen A Chainsaw Properly - YouTube
Granberg precision grinder and accurate depth guage raker setting for chainsaw chain - YouTube

You have plenty of chains, so once you get the hang of sharpening, you will be set up for a lifetime !

 

[oldballs]

I have always sharpened by hand (files) with the bar on the saw...........and the saw set level on my workbench.....the the bar clamped into a machinist vise....a goose neck lamp over the vise.
A neighbor gave me a brand new Oregon sharpener (top of the line).....it worked fine.....but i could do a single chain by hand faster than setting up the Oregon. If I had several chains to do at one time, I'd probably set up the Oregon.

 

[JRobyn]

.... Another thing I would mention is that when sharpening with a Dremel, don't overheat the teeth and ruin the temper of the steel. I run my Dremel on a fairly slow speed.

Kevin

I totally agree - be sure to not overheat. You can tell if you're doing it because the thinnest part of the tooth (the leading/cutting edge) will start to blue. I have an alternate method to prevent overheating - use a HIGH RPM, but light pressure. Seems to work better (for me).