Chain saws

   / Chain saws #31  
Husky 455 autotune if your worrying about it starting and don't have the ability to tune it yourself. Nice thing about a big box store saw is that if you go in and complain loud enough they'll give another one. I've had several home store saws, and they did what your talking about with aplomb. I now have a no kidding pro saw, but only bought it after I reached a pt where I knew I would use it. I see a ton of guys that buy a really awesome saw and they may as well have thrown $250 bucks in the fire place and bought a home store saw.
 
   / Chain saws #32  
I bought a Stihl 029 Farm Boss when I bought my house 15 years ago and it was money well spent. I've cut dozens of trees over the years, hard and soft wood, standing and fallen, and it has given me zero trouble. I'm sure Husqvarna is also a great saw but I have no experience with them. Be careful and keep the chain sharp or you'll just beat up the saw. Good luck.
 
   / Chain saws #33  
For me, the priority is small size, lots of power and reliability. My arms get tired after holding a larger chain saw for more than an hour or so. Years ago, I took note of what some professionals were using to cut some trees close to the house as they climbed around in them like monkeys. The chainsaws were attached to their belts with lanyards and light enough to hold out from your body with one arm but strong enough to cut some big branches. So I bought one. I cut some pretty big trees down with this sucker.

ECHO 14 in. 30.1 cc Gas Chainsaw - California Compliant-CS-303T-14C at The Home Depot


My go to saw and the one I keep on the truck is an older version Echo Top Handle Saw.

I can't say a single bad thing about it... used it one time to clear a road with a 34" Monterey Pine from a windstorm.

Only negative with top handle saws in my experience is the fatigue factor with prolong hour after hour use.
 
   / Chain saws #34  
The problem with the smaller saws some are suggesting is yes, they can drop a big tree if needed, but they become a hindrance with constant cutting. Chains need to be sharpened more, filters get clogged fast and they seem to run out of bar oil and gas way too fast. Forget about total hours you will cut a year and look at how long your cutting sessions will be. Anything more then 1/2 hour and you will want to look a a mid sized saw. I'd look for something in the 20" to 22" range, 55-60cc. I have new and old saws just about from every manufacturer. Late 80's to 90's saws are way more durable then even the best current stuff. If it was my money, I'd buy a refurbished pro model saw from a good saw guy. You'll get many times more saw for much less $ and if its a good model it will oulast you.
 
   / Chain saws #35  
The problem with the smaller saws some are suggesting is yes, they can drop a big tree if needed, but they become a hindrance with constant cutting. Chains need to be sharpened more, filters get clogged fast and they seem to run out of bar oil and gas way too fast.

My little 170 does go through a tank pretty quick, but the chain seems to stay sharp longer than I get with my 311 (59cc)....weird, but it really seems that way. That's one of the things I really like about it aside fom the fact I can cut all day with it, and not be totally worn out. I'm using them primarily to cut dead Ash trees that are typically under 12" in diameter. I'd still go up in size if I had to live with one saw, and have considered something like a 260/261 for just that purpose....10-11lb powerhead, and a decent amount of power.
 
   / Chain saws #36  
Get a good, logger's grade, Stihl or Husquavarna. If found the bigger the saw, the less likely it is to overheat and burn out. I can continuously cut with my $500 husky until it's time to refill the tank and oiler. I killed 3 or 4 cheap homlites and poulans because they just couldn't take the heat. Figured $500 bucks for a saw that lasts 10 years beats the heck out of 10, $120 saws that only last a season or year at the most.
 
   / Chain saws #37  
I guess everybody's experience with smaller, powerful saws are much different than my own. My Echo cuts continuously without overheating until I have to refill. The tank and chain oil will last a couple of hours which is about as long as I care to saw without taking a break. The chain stays sharp right up until you bury it in the dirt, then I can sharpen it in under 5 minutes, on the saw. And why would the filters get clogged faster? Doesn't make any sense. I figure $300 bucks for a saw that lasts 15 years or more beats one that lasts 10 years for $500 bucks.

For the record, Homelites and Poulans do not qualify as professional grade which is what we are talking about here.
 
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   / Chain saws #38  
Whatever you buy, empty the gas out and run it dry, if you dont plan on using it over a couple of days, even better empty it run dry everytime with pump gas. I keep a couple of cans of the motomix on hand for short term use.
 
   / Chain saws #39  
My little 170 does go through a tank pretty quick, but the chain seems to stay sharp longer than I get with my 311 (59cc)....weird, but it really seems that way. That's one of the things I really like about it aside fom the fact I can cut all day with it, and not be totally worn out. I'm using them primarily to cut dead Ash trees that are typically under 12" in diameter. I'd still go up in size if I had to live with one saw, and have considered something like a 260/261 for just that purpose....10-11lb powerhead, and a decent amount of power.

MS261s are awesome saws. I have one as well as an 026 still in good shape. Both great saws and I don't see any drop in quality from old to new. Less vibrations on the MS261 than the 026, but both are great saws.
 
   / Chain saws #40  
Stihl MS 201 c-e with a full chisle is in my future.
 

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