Chain saws

[Coyote machine]

Now that's a STIHL guy! Man what a selection. I'll bet those saws run great! I need more Stihls!:drool::drool:

 

[bjlinwi]

In 50 years of cutting up trees I have owned several saws and have 4 right now. We burn wood for heat and aesthetics, plus we burn wood for our maple syrup operation, so we put up many cords a year. I have 2 Husqvarnas, a 350 with an 18 bar and a 240 with a 16 bar. I have an old Homelite Super x12 with a 20 bar and a Sears Craftsman with a 16 bar. They each serve their own purpose well for me. The 350 is my workhorse now as the x12 is getting old and so am I and the x12 is heavy! I have owned Stihl and McCulloch also. I have to say for just going out for an hour or two of cutting around the house I take the Sears. I like the fact that it is light weight and I need no tools for tightening the chain. With a good sharp chain it does what I want and it was half the price of the husky. From my experience an all-around saw for your use and price not a consideration I would agree with others on the Stih or Husqvarna with a 16 bar. The key is keeping your chain tight and sharp.

 

[ultrarunner]

Went to buy an extra chain recently for one of my Stihls and the guy pulled two possible chains off the rack. I asked to compare price points and one chain was ridiculously high. Turns out it was a carbide chain for firefighters to cut through just about anything! I chose to pass. They told me it could not be resharpened either! Wow, throw away expensive carbide; I'll stick with the regular Stihl chain thanks.:thumbsup:

I have one of the carbide chains... it can be resharpened.

The problem is almost none of the shops can do it.

I can send mine back to the manufacturer for a nominal fee.

Learned 90% of their business is search and rescue... one nail and dull to the point the chain hardly works.

The carbide saw eats soft nails and it good for sawing through roofs and walls.

 

[94BULLITT]

They also run carbide chains on processors.

 

[s219]

Stihl ms290 can't say anything negative about it. If I needed a new saw tomorrow I'd buy the same thing

Weight is the issue on that saw. The smaller lighter 261 can outcut it and you'll be a lot less fatigued at the end of the day.

 

[s219]

Is there anyplace they have those guidelines published? It may just be me, but that sounds low.

I know I've put many times that on my cheapie 170 without a hiccup. In just the last 6 weeks, I've run nearly two gallons of premix through it (storm cleanup), and that's like 25+ tanks. I figured I would use it sparingly, but boy that turned out to be wrong! I do wish I'd gotten the 201 for smaller tasks, just so I know it'll last for years, but I think most people would be surprised how well, and how long, even the least expensive Stihl models will run.

Doesn't need to be published -- just look at the emissions certification sticker on the saw, which will give you an idea of the hour rating. The homeowner Stihls have a 50 hour rating. The pro saws are generally 300 hours.

 

[s219]

For me, the priority is small size, lots of power and reliability. My arms get tired after holding a larger chain saw for more than an hour or so. Years ago, I took note of what some professionals were using to cut some trees close to the house as they climbed around in them like monkeys. The chainsaws were attached to their belts with lanyards and light enough to hold out from your body with one arm but strong enough to cut some big branches. So I bought one. I cut some pretty big trees down with this sucker.

ECHO 14 in. 30.1 cc Gas Chainsaw - California Compliant-CS-303T-14C at The Home Depot

I have an Echo top handle saw, and it's great when I am climbing or working from a ladder. But top-handle saws are meant for tree work, and not intended for ground work, general use, or felling. It can be done, but it's considerably less efficient and significantly more dangerous than using a rear handle saw. A small rear-handle Echo would be a great all-around saw with the same light weight properties that you seem to be after. The top-handle should only be reserved for tree work.

 

[Coyote machine]

I have an Echo top handle saw, and it's great when I am climbing or working from a ladder. But top-handle saws are meant for tree work, and not intended for ground work, general use, or felling. It can be done, but it's considerably less efficient and significantly more dangerous than using a rear handle saw. A small rear-handle Echo would be a great all-around saw with the same light weight properties that you seem to be after. The top-handle should only be reserved for tree work.

Yes, indeed, top handle saws are for those with special training in handling saws in trees, NOT for homeowners wanting to play at professional tree work on the ground.

 

[GManBart]

I think the MS261 is completely different than a MS260. I think the 261 has .5 more horsepower.

As far as I can tell, the 261 replaced the 260....went up a bit in weight, and power.

 

[TomSeller]

As far as I can tell, the 261 replaced the 260....went up a bit in weight, and power.

Right. The MS261 is a completely different saw. The 260 was an upgrade of the 026 and they were mostly the same. But the 261 is altogether new. The 261 is a strato saw, which means it takes a gulp of fresh air which sandwiches in between the fueled air and the exhaust air. The result is cleaner exhaust, better power ( fueled air is not as diluted with exhaust) and the saw uses less fuel. Bad explanation, I know. Blue air in the attached is the strato air. Not your father's two stroke.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IY7zQKw4qsQ&feature=youtube_gdata_player