Chain sharpening

[Einthewoods]

I致e got an Oregon chain grinder, not the top of the line edition, but compared to the Horr Freight grinder my neighbor bought (and no longer uses) it does a fine job.
While the grind vs hand file debate rages on, I prefer to keep my saw chains in top shape by grinding carefully.
A wood cutting adventure includes two or more spare sharp chains as, in my opinion, swapping out a dull chain in freezing cold is less hassle that filing.
B. John

Thanks John

 

[SCWOOD]

I have the HF sharpener.I like it.I would recommend watching youtube videos on how to set it up.I used to use a craftsman 12v handheld chainsaw grinder but the cutters would end up not ground the same.Chains are not the same, look at Oregon's website. I use professional chains they cut faster but you may be better with the low kickback chain.I have three saws & electric pole saw. Having 2 or three chains and paying local shop to sharpen is a good option for occasional use.

 

[Sonny580]

My main grinder is an old Belsaw 399.---next is one like, but not from, HF. it works fine for small chains.--lastly is the actual Dremel attachment and I use the carbide bits, NOT the stones.
If your chain dulls that quick, I would go with a chain from Oregon, or stihl ( I have used stihl chains with good luck), get the PRO. grade, not the common grade. thanks; sonny580

 

[RandyT]

I'm thinking it's a bargain basement chain made with soft steel. Soft steel in a pocket knife will sharpen quickly and get dull even faster while hard steel takes longer to sharpen and stays sharp much longer.. Don't know what type of chain is on this saw, probably not Oregon.

Most OEM's use oregon chain. Could be a cheap china import, but could also be the lower of the three grades of Oregon chain. Oregon makes almost all the chain used by various OEM's including Stihl. Been told by Oregon rep that the box store chain has 1/3 of chrome layering than the pro grade chains. thicker chrome coating results in the chain being more tolerant of abrasive conditions.

 

[varmint]

Instead of buying something pricey for occasional use, I would recommend getting one of the Stihl or Pferd 2-1 sharpeners, (around $42 on Amazon) just as at least two other posters have already done. It won't break, it carries into the field, works without much of a learning curve, and does just what it is designed to do- a lot of people much more experienced than I am have great things to say about them. How many things can we say that about? Better yet, get a new Oregon chain along with it. Their website will guide you thru the ordering process. Assuming a modicum of common chain-saw user sense, a faster cutting chain than the consumer "safety" chain that comes with such saws will make an instant improvement in cutting speed.

 

[marchanna]

A 16 bar has a pretty short chain. Fewer cutting edges means it will wear out sooner. I buy Oregon chains for my 16 echo and they work well. Make sure you stop using it when the cutting get noticeably worse or else you値l ruin the chain. Buy a couple spares and sharpen them all at the same time, light and quick cuts with an electric sharpen so that you don稚 impart too much heat to the chain or else you will anneal the steel.

 

[Jstpssng]

Your Ryobi chain also has small teeth, which will get dull quicker. Don't knock it just because of the brand though, small saws like that have done a lot of work for homeowners over the decades. I've been thinking about getting a Ryobi 40V electric for carrying behind the seat in my pickup, for the occasional tree across the road. In the time it takes to start my Huskie and warm it up, the Ryobi would have it gone.

 

[marchanna]

My echo is a 58v. It chews through anything the bar is long enough for. A great little saw.

 

[DJ54]

Dad bought this style of a manual sharpener over 40 years ago. Sportsman Earth Series Bar Mounted Manual Chainsaw Filing Guide-8�2597 - The Home Depot But, it was all cast aluminum. In fact, I still have it, and use it, and it has sharpened MANY chains. He liked it so well, he bought 2 more. One to take to the woods, just in case, and a spare in the shop. They were bought through Zip Penn, now Cutter's Choice. Also bought files through them at a good price. Looked at the site, and prices are still a pretty decent price. Cutter's Choice Online - Chainsaw Files & Accessories Buying by the dozen, makes for a good discount. I've still got a couple boxes left, from when I cut firewood to sell years ago.

The sharpeners are easy to use. There are 2 small guides that set on top of the bar, then clamp it in place, anywhere along the bar. Set the angle of cut (we set it at 35ｺ). Always check for the worst tooth, and start with it. how ever many strokes it takes to clean it up, make that many strokes on the rest of them, to keep the chain even, so it will cut straight. Just be sure and mark that firs tooth filed with a lumber marking crayon, or paint pen, so you know where you started.

I clamp the saw in the vise to hold it. When you finish one side, flip the saw around in the vise, to do the other side. Then flip the file guide, to file in the other direction.

They do make guides to file down the depth gauges, or rakers, but after you've done it a while, you just learn to make 2-3 passes with a flat file, to dress them up, after 2-3 cutter sharpenings. You also learn to not take to much off the depth gauges, or it will snag the chain when cutting. At least, until the chain dulls a bit.

If you get this type, and take care of it, it should last you the rest of your life.

 

[wimpy525]

I just bought the Stihl 2 and 1 filing guide last weekend. I cut 6-8 cord a year. I have been hand filing for years and got somewhat good at it, the 2 and 1 just makes life easier, sharpens and files the rackers in one step. I file just about every time I take the saw out, keep one spare chain, when I cant get the results I want by file I swap chains and have the local shop sharpen the dull one.

 

[CobyRupert]

Good suggestions here. Especially: "Mind the Rakers!"

OP is most likely finding dirt somehow. It doesn't take much to dull a chain. Usually, if one is cutting the same type of wood, one just has to watch the size of the chips / saw dust coming off the chain to know how sharp it is or isn't.
I find hand filling (with a clip on guide on hand file) is quickest and easiest.

Unscientific / untested statement to follow: Sure, I could spend 80% more time setting up and using an electric sharpener, but I have a feeling I would only get a 10% better chain, that's going to get just as dull anyways when I find some dirt in the first 10 minutes, or if lucky, 2 gas tanks later.

 

[milligan36]

I have logged for 20 years and always use a file to sharpen my saw. Pine shouldnt be dulling chain like that so i bet the quality of chain is issue.

 

[wimpy525]

Does the OP have one of those Green Safety chains (low kick back) on his saw? I got one by accident once and hated it.

 

[EddieWalker]

I have 3 Stihl and one Echo chain saw that are all different sizes, and obviously, use different sized chains. Originally I would take the chain to the dealer and have him sharpen them for $5 each. In a week, I'd pick them up and have a super sharp chain. This meant that I had to have another chain while the dull one was being sharpened. Then over time, the chain would need replacing, and then I would need another. Sometimes, I'd have three or four chains for just one saw. So then I bought a cheap chain sharpener from Northern Tool that worked find, but it took awhile to get it all set up, and then going from tooth to tooth. I didn't care for it, and went back to paying to have it done.

Then one day I was watching one of the logging shows on TV that used to be on, and I realized that all those guys carried around a file, and would do it themselves while working, or about to head out for the day. It looked quick and easy on TV, so I bought an Oregon chainsaw file from Lowes and gave it a try. It worked great!!!!! Now that's all I do, I just run the file over the teeth before using it if it was getting dull the last time I used it, and I'm ready to go. My chains seem to last longer, and I currently do not have any extra chains laying around. I just use the one on the saw until it's beyond sharpening, and then replace it, which I've only had to do once in years.

 

[ericm979]

I don't see a big difference in cutting speed with low kickback chain vs regular chain of the same brand and cutter style. I prefer low kickback semi chisel chain for brush and limbing, where you're more likely to get kickback and pure cutting speed is not so important, and regular kickback full chisel chain for felling and bucking larger stuff. The low kickback chain is also less apt to catch on twigs than regular chain. It'll even do bore cuts, just not as fast.

Of course preventing kickback is mostly down to handing the saw and paying attention to what you're doing. But I'm fine with safety features that may help if I have a lapse if they don't impact performance much.

 

[arrow]

I have logged for 20 years and always use a file to sharpen my saw. Pine shouldnt be dulling chain like that so i bet the quality of chain is issue.

I tend to agree with this. Nothing I ever tried was faster than a file but the more you do it, the better and more efficient you get. Out in the field, it is all one had.
There is a marked difference in chainsaw chain hardness. I find Husqvarna chains very soft and dull more easily. Stihl makes a good chain and I like them the best. Carlton (Oregon) and such make a pretty decent chain as well as far as hardness is concerned.

As /pine alluded to and he is exactly right, a thing to remember about pine is that they are "sappy". This stickiness can absorb a lot of dust and floating air debris. I recall one job of clear cutting for a mall next to a highway. Some pines had so much debris embedded in their sap streaks, it could be used as sand paper. Cheap, soft chain would suffer in this environment.

 

[ddbackhoe]

We've cut up a little over 400 cord this season so, just my opinion......I'm the one that has 6 chains for each of my two saws. When it's dull I swap them out and press on. I used to take them for sharpening, but now have an old automatic bench sharpener. Hand filing is ok to get by but if there's a real trick to it, don't know what it is.

 

[arrow]

We've cut up a little over 400 cord this season so, just my opinion......I'm the one that has 6 chains for each of my two saws. When it's dull I swap them out and press on. I used to take them for sharpening, but now have an old automatic bench sharpener. Hand filing is ok to get by but if there's a real trick to it, don't know what it is.

I think it just comes with doing it dd. If you do it 7 million times, you're not even thinking about it. If it took me 3 minutes, it took me too long. A file is for "touch up". 3 to 4 strokes...done. What I've noticed is that effective filing is only accomplished with effective files. Many people use them for way too long and buy cheap files from the box stores.

What I never spent time doing in the woods was attempting to fix a dinged cutter with a hand file. I had/still have a professional bench grinder that when I went home, I would fix up the dings on the machine.

 

[CMV]

Wow. Lots of good information.

I'm not out cutting down a forest or using firewood for home heating. Just whenever a tree falls, I drag it out & cut it up. My wife actually enjoys splitting wood and I think it's good exercise occasionally as well. So I cut up the occasional tree, split & stack the wood, and just let it accumulate. A little goes for small fires on the property or to keep the burn barrels going for a long time, but otherwise I'm cutting trees just because they are there. I even tried giving some away a few times but apparently people who burn wood in their homes only want hard woods - even if it's already split, dry, and free.

I use a chainsaw maybe few hrs every other month and am not relying on it to make a living or provide heating fuel. So with that light use, I kind of like the dremel tool attachment idea as a starting point. That looks like the fastest and simplest for a novice like me and i already have a couple dremel tools lying about.

If Oregon makes several grades of chain, how do I know if I'm getting a long-lasting one? Is what they sell in Lowe's/HD good or the crappy version?

 

[Ford850]

I just have a basic big box store chainsaw. Ryobi 16 in. 37cc - nothing fancy and probably a toy compared to 'real' one. But for all I need one for, it's acceptable. I mostly use it for dealing with downed pine trees or getting low hanging branches clipped to mow under easier.

With a sharp blade it cuts really well for its size/power. But it seems the blade doesn't stay sharp for very long. Limbing and cutting two medium-sized pine into logs seems to be enough that by the end I notice it isn't cutting nearly as well. No idea if that's normal or how long a chain should feel like it's cutting best. I don't run it into the dirt or anything 'bad'. I try to let the saw do the work and not force it into the cut. The chain oil spitter seems like it's right and working - the oil tank empties about the same time as gas tank. But into tree #2 I really noticed it taking a lot longer to make a cut and by the end felt like it was taking twice as long to get through the same diameter of tree.

Anyway, how is the HF electric chainsaw sharpener? Looks like that would be a lot faster/easier than a file. But before messing with it figured I'd see if it's worthwhile or a waste of time & $$$. Also, just using the chain that came with it. Would a different brand stay sharper longer or are they all pretty much the same?

You're still using the original chain that came with it, so how are you sharpening that when it gets dull? If you aren't sharpening to the proper angle it will dull quickly.