Chain sharpening

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If Oregon makes several grades of chain, how do I know if I'm getting a long-lasting one? Is what they sell in Lowe's/HD good or the crappy version?

Oregon makes perfectly good chain for your application. I'm not sure they use different metals depending on the chain design but if I had to list chain in order of build quality and hardness it would be 1. Stihl, Woodland Pro or Carlton, (which in all honesty looks more raggedly built than either Oregon or Husqvarna but stays sharp longer) Oregon, Husqvarna.

Any Oregon chain will do ya.

 

[Jstpssng]

I was listening to a couple of logging contractors and a wood buyer for Columbia Veneer a few years ago while they were talking about sharpening; and they all agreed that the file guides available make it pretty easy to keep a saw sharp. They also recommended this Husqvarna Filing equipment Combination gauges
sawguide.
I may use it a couple of times over the life of the chain, just to bring it back into shape. Otherwise I file in the woods. A word of caution though; you can't get a chain sharp if you are using a dull file. After each use I clean the filings out with a denim rag, and throw the file out when it doesn't cut the way I want. I also store my spares in lengths of fuel line.
When cutting, you should be throwing out chips of wood. If you're just making sawdust, your rakers need to be taken down. Don't attempt this without a raker gauge, as you could end up getting too much of a bite, icreasing the risk of kickback, or the saw may not cut straight.

A dremel may not be your best choice at first, because you still need to file the teeth at the correct angles.

 

[pathunt]

Check what the angles should be on the teeth before you sharpen them. I use a Stihl with a 14" bar and it is sufficient to routinely cut 8" and larger.

Starkiller

 

[Jay4200]

Anyway, how is the HF electric chainsaw sharpener? Looks like that would be a lot faster/easier than a file. But before messing with it figured I'd see if it's worthwhile or a waste of time & $$$. Also, just using the chain that came with it. Would a different brand stay sharper longer or are they all pretty much the same?

HF sharpener is great - one of the best $29 I ever spent.

 

[TerryR]

HF sharpener is great - one of the best $29 I ever spent.

I received one as a gift a few years ago. It broke promptly and they refused to do anything about it because the person who gave it to me hadn't sent me the sales receipt. I'll never buy anything from them again.

 

[Deere Dude]

I received one as a gift a few years ago. It broke promptly and they refused to do anything about it because the person who gave it to me hadn't sent me the sales receipt. I'll never buy anything from them again.

Sure you will.

 

[RandyT]

Wow. Lots of good information.

I'm not out cutting down a forest or using firewood for home heating. Just whenever a tree falls, I drag it out & cut it up. My wife actually enjoys splitting wood and I think it's good exercise occasionally as well. So I cut up the occasional tree, split & stack the wood, and just let it accumulate. A little goes for small fires on the property or to keep the burn barrels going for a long time, but otherwise I'm cutting trees just because they are there. I even tried giving some away a few times but apparently people who burn wood in their homes only want hard woods - even if it's already split, dry, and free.

I use a chainsaw maybe few hrs every other month and am not relying on it to make a living or provide heating fuel. So with that light use, I kind of like the dremel tool attachment idea as a starting point. That looks like the fastest and simplest for a novice like me and i already have a couple dremel tools lying about.

If Oregon makes several grades of chain, how do I know if I'm getting a long-lasting one? Is what they sell in Lowe's/HD good or the crappy version?

If the chain comes off of a roll, and the person has to take a piece off and then spin the rivets back together to make loop that is at least middle grade chain. if it comes premade in a box with a part number that starts with like E,S,T etc. then that is the homeowner low grade chain. The only way that a person would know what grade chain they have is to know what box it came out of and know how to read the Oregon part numbers. Even some dealers that sell oregon chain can't determine one chain from another from the part numbers.

 

[TerryR]

Sure you will.

Why would you say that? I've never bought anything from them 'til now, since the chain sharpener doesn't count because it was a gift. I consider everything they sell junk.

 

[Deere Dude]

The last two chains I got I had the Stihl dealer just make some up from a roll he had. Maybe I got lucky with wood but I am on the first chain and it seems to be running forever. Much longer than the previous chains from the pack. Coincidence or not, I don't know.

 

[Deere Dude]

I received one as a gift a few years ago. It broke promptly and they refused to do anything about it because the person who gave it to me hadn't sent me the sales receipt. I'll never buy anything from them again.

Sure you will.

Why would you say that? I've never bought anything from them 'til now, since the chain sharpener doesn't count because it was a gift. I consider everything they sell junk.

It's a guy thing. Harbor Freight is just like a testosterone magnet.

I was just kidding with you, but I never met a guy that has never bought anything from them. Let me know if you cave in, I am by nature curious.

 

[TerryR]

I was just kidding with you, but I never met a guy that has never bought anything from them. Let me know if you cave in, I am by nature curious.

I haven't for 76 years, so it's probably not a good idea to hold your breath waiting.

 

[Greenland South]

This is my take on this. Can I sharpen a chain free hand? Absolutely I can, but why? Ive got an electric sharpener, I think it's an Oregon branded thing. Bought a 25' roll of chain, chain breaker and riveter years ago. I think I have 10 chains. When a chain gets dull, and that could be one log or ten, depending on a bunch of variables, I switch it out and throw it into the dull pile. Take em home and sharpen, they take about 5-7 minutes depending on what happened to the chain. Rocked? Dirt? Dull from use? A few months ago a buddy gave me a harbour freight grinder because he wasn't using it. I've since set that up to grind the rakers, now I don't ever have to bother fiddling with angles and such on the main grinder. One thing I would suggest though is to get rid of that crappy pink grinding wheel and find yourself a good aftermarket diamond wheel. They're about a hundred bucks but well worth it. You'll not burn a tooth unless you're really not paying attention.

 

[Norm W]

You have to go to Horrible Fright regularly just for the smell of Chinese cosmoline and half vulcanized rubber.

 

[CMV]

I got the Dremel kit at Lowe's yesterday. For $15 it was the cheapest solution - even the HF one with coupon was a little more.

Setting it up was a little bit of a hassle as I didn't find the instructions real easy to follow. Plan a was to attach it my smaller cordless Dremel so I could just sharpen wherever, whenever. That didn't work however because the smaller cordless doesn't have the threaded end where the sharpener guide threads on to attach. It has small LED lights instead. So I had to use a larger corded one. Excuse to go buy a larger cordless Dremel maybe

Overall, once set up, I found it to be very easy to use and quick. Not removing the chain is a huge timesaver in itself. And now that the sharpener guide is all set up, it will be much faster in the future. Running my finger over the newly sharpened teeth, they were ok, but not quite as good as a brand new chain I compared to. So the Dremel seemed to get them back to serviceable, but not 'outstanding'. I had some small stuff around the house and cut that very well with the newly sharpened chain. But largest was about 5" diameter branches so I didn't get a real good feel for how it's cutting on big stuff.

For the small amount I use a chainsaw, I think this is best solution so big thanks for that recommendation

 

[Todd727]

It's been mentioned before:

2 in 1 Filing Guide & Saw Chain Sharpener | STIHL USA

Simple and cheap. Much easier and quicker than anything I've tried. They are usually cheaper from a Stihl dealer than you can get from Amazon. Beauty of this is you file the depth gauges (often incorrectly refereed to as rakers) too. Can do a 36" chain in less than ten minutes.

Sharpen Your Saw Chain with the 2 in 1 Filing Guide - YouTube

 

[goeduck]

I think chain sharpening is the new best oil thread. Or HST vs Gear thread.

 

[Ken Mac]

I'm no pro but do cut fairly regularly and have a Stihl pro model saw MS162, I think. I have found that Stihl pro chains are by far the best I've ever seen. They just seem to keep cutting without dulling. If you can find one for your Ryobi, I bet it will seem like a different saw and your issues will go away.

 

[CMV]

I'm no pro but do cut fairly regularly and have a Stihl pro model saw MS162, I think. I have found that Stihl pro chains are by far the best I've ever seen. They just seem to keep cutting without dulling. If you can find one for your Ryobi, I bet it will seem like a different saw and your issues will go away.

Might try that. I have an Oregon spare new in package that I picked up at Lowe's. Between the two, I expect they will last years and years unless I decide to clear a different section on my land or get into some project I'm not expecting to now. The Dremel sharpening didn't remove much material at all so I'm assuming teeth can be touched up with it many times.

 

[ericm979]

A $2 file and $5 handle is even cheaper than a dremel attachment. And you don't really need the handle. I didn't use one for years.

I've used Stihl, Woodland Pro and Oregon chain. I rate them for durability in that order. Woodland Pro's the best value but does not come in low kickback, which I like for brush and limbing.

 

[crazyal]

Here's my advice. Go to a store that sells Stihl and ask for a Stihl brand pro chain. They just last. I use a cordless Dremel that has it's own plastic case. I don't use the "kit" just do it freehand. I also use spray thread cutting oil used for cutting threads into a pipe. Buy the smallest can, lol. I thought "look the super large can is not much more than the small can" and it's lasted me more than 5 years now and I suspect the propellant will leak out long before I use up the oil. Get yourself spare stones. Sooner or later it'll wear down or you'll drop your Dremel and break it. I always have 2 or 3 spares. Since you have the Dremel kit get use to it and then try touching up the chain freehand that way you can take your cordless Dremel with you. One of the worst things you can do is dull your chain then keep pushing on thinking "I'm almost done". Chances are you'll over heat the chain and loose the temper. Stopping and giving it a quick touch up will save you time and help extend the life of your chain. Also don't forget to grease your bar tip.