Chains for hauling tractor

[CoyPatton]

I plan on one chain through a clevis on the draw bar and just ratchet straps on the front axle.

In order to meet DOT requirements (in my opinion the only way to not be in a fight with your insurance if you file a claim) you need 4 separate connections for the vehicle and 1 for each implement and and attachment. My guess is you would need 6.
Now which to use? Straps or chains?
Personally I use a combination of both and axle straps. My axle straps have a reinforced “padding” on them and these I put through my rear wheels and around my front axle the attach straps. On my loader and implements I use chains because of sharp points. You can get padded protectors for straps, but they are a pain in my opinion.

i think you are low on your weight, because I suspect your 3000lbs for your tractor is without fluids. But that is more of a concern related to your trailer capacity than your tie downs. 5/16 chain with a WWL of 4700lbs times 4 chains is well beyond what your tractor with fluids will weigh.
Good luck with your transporting your tractor!

 

[kenhar]

Either size is sufficient for your tractor. Two chains two binders. One pulling forward, the other pulling back. Your tractor will arrive at your destination the same time you do.

 

[redmt]

I need to purchase a chain to tie down my tractor when hauling it. The tractor is a TYM 2515h and weighs around 3000 lbs without the loader and close to 4000 with the loader. Will a 5/16 inch chain be sufficient or should I get 3/8 inch? The 5/16 inch yellow chromate chain has a load capacity of 4700 lbs and the 3/8 has a capacity of 6600 lbs. From the numbers I would think 5/16 will work unless I'm missing something like stress load while braking etc. Any ideas?

There are strict regulations for CERTIFIED tie down chain. Don't just buy harbor freight cheap to get by.

 

[SISSY2]

Flatbed operator here, when your chain returns to starting point ie: nose of trailer thru clevis back to nose of trailer, the weight rating of chain or strap is now halved, not doubled, but cut in half, so if you start with 6000# rating, it is now a 3000# rated chain or strap. Only way to maintain the weight rating is to use it across and not return it to starting point,.

 

[Fields_mj]

I use a pair of 5/16 G70 chains for my Ford . With the bush hog on, it weighs around 4500 lbs (tractor plus loader plus loaded tires plus wheel weights plus bush hog). I run one chain through the draw bar and anchor to D rings on each side of my trailer and use a binder there to tighten everything up. I run the other through D rings on the front of my trailer and then run them to the hooks on my bucket. I chain the front first then back up to take out as much slack as I can and then chain the rear. If, for some reason, I don't feel like I have enough tension on the chains, I'll use a binder with the excess chain up front to side load both ends of that setup.

If I have forks on instead of the bucket, I'll go around the front of the loader with the chain and use a 2nd binder. I've never had any issues with any of it moving. If I didn't have the loader, I'd just wrap the chain around the front axil. I prefer using chains because I have lots of corners to go around. The 2nd time I used ratchet straps, I noticed that a corner had cut 1/2 way through one of the straps while I was going down the road. I'd still be willing to wrap one around an axil, but that one was going through a pin on my draw bar and the corner in question was part of the draw bar itself. I could have used a clevis, but I didn't think it would be an issue. Lesson learned.

 

[beenthere]

All depends on what the load will be when (at the moment) the need for the chain is tested. Roll over, sudden stop, crash, rough roadway, or just a quick turn. Only then will you know the answer. Until then, the 5/16 will work just fine. Beyond that, follow the law. Good luck.

The tendency these days is to go with straps.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

An old rusty chain is usually better than an old frayed strap.

Bruce

An old rusty chain is five times better than a new strap. I tried both, hands down for chain being # 1.

 

[Bearsixty7]

Flatbed operator here, when your chain returns to starting point ie: nose of trailer thru clevis back to nose of trailer, the weight rating of chain or strap is now halved, not doubled, but cut in half, so if you start with 6000# rating, it is now a 3000# rated chain or strap. Only way to maintain the weight rating is to use it across and not return it to starting point,.

This doesn't make any sense to me. Can you provide a link explaining because I don't agree with it. It may not double the WLL (Which I think it does) but it certainly shouldn't be half.

What would be any different then if the chain was cut in half and both sections were used, the weight rating wouldn't be halved, both sections would have the same 6000 weight rating so effectively with 2 you now have 12000 weight rating on that point.

Anytime we use pulleys winching we double the winch's pulling power but the speed is halved.

 

[bcp]

From:
Cargo Securement Rules | FMCSA

Minimum Working Load Limit for Cargo Securement Devices and Systems


The aggregate working load limit of any securement system used to secure an article or group of articles against movement must be at least one-half the weight of the article or group of articles. The aggregate working load limit is the sum of: One-half the working load limit of each tiedown that goes from an anchor point on the vehicle to an attachment point on an article of cargo; and The working load limit for each tiedown that goes from an anchor point on the vehicle, through, over or around the cargo and then attaches to another anchor point on the vehicle.

-------------------------

Looks like if only one anchor point is used, the WLL is half.

More here:

Difference Between Direct & Indirect Tiedowns | US Cargo Control

Know the difference between direct and indirect tiedowns and determine which method is right for your job.

www.uscargocontrol.com

Bruce